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Cadillac Catera Maintenance & Repair

1213 messages, Last post on Nov 04, 2009 at 4:30 PM
You are in the Cadillac Catera Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Apr 19, 2009 7:36 am) It was the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Instead of paying over 500$ for the part and another 100$ plus for him to install it and reset the codes, I purchased a re manufactured MAFS from Checkers for 275$ and replaced it myself then disconnected battery to reset codes. My Cat now runs better then it ever has sense I have owned her plus getting better gas mileage then ever 20 in city best ever before was 18 Thanks again |
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Replying to: micldar (Apr 18, 2009 10:41 am) hope you can help Melanie |
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Replying to: rolson (Apr 15, 2005 6:44 pm) Good luck , Melaie |
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I recently bought a 97 catera drove around the block running fine. i dont have the remote for the keyless entry so i locked the doors using the button on the interior door. i then proceeded to open the door using my key and set of the alarm. i had no idea how to turn it off so i disconnected the battery. now when i try to start the car it turns over but shuts off right away and the security light flashes on the dash. does anyone know how to reset the anti theft?
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Replying to: catera44 (May 20, 2009 2:46 pm) |
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ok my 99 catera started doing this like for a couple of months butit has been doingit more frecuent.The transmission light started turning on and while driving.The last gear stays stuck and well i have to down shift and den startr shifting up or wat i do is turn the car off and den turn it back on and it starts working fine.......so does anyone have a clue on wat could be wrong
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Hi I am new here (as of today) and have an 01' Catera with multiple problems. Shouldn't come as a surprise. My TC and brake light (dash) go on when the brake pedal is pressed and go off when it is released. Further, the car starts and engine goes to 1500 rpm, then idles down to around 5-600, coughing and spitting. It will not move the car in this state as there is 0 power. After a while of running like this (1 min or so) the engine seems to clear up and the car runs reasonably well. These problems both appeared after we lost the key for the car and it sat for 4 months while we looked everywhere. In the end, we paid $330 to get a new key. The car had to be towed to the dealer where the tow company destroyed the front end by grabbing it by the steering links and bending the tie rod links. The tow company paid for the repairs and now the car can't make it into the alignment bay because of the poor engine performance. Dealer swears that programming the key did not affect the car electronic management. Any adice?
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Replying to: flamenco1 (May 31, 2009 7:53 am) Dave
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104000 miles in mint condition except no compression on #4 (if I'm right) driver's side. Can hear compressed leak from crankcase from dipstick tube per engine cycle. I am assuming I have a hole in the #4 piston or ring problem. Valves are moving with cam but can hear a slight tick-tick. I am open to thoughts and suggestions before I teardown engine. Love the car and will solve this problem. Thanks; Dave
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Replying to: sskl (Jun 01, 2009 6:14 am)
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