- #1045 of 1218
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Re: Mass Air Flow Sensor [az_hvy]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
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Apr 18, 2009 (9:20 pm)
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Replying to: az_hvy (Apr 18, 2009 6:17 pm)
Whoa now. Slow down. A PO 101 code doesn't necessarily mean you need a new MAF sensor. These codes do not identify the defective part, only the circuit or system that is having difficulty.
Were any other codes set? If so they must be addressed before 101
Also, check for vacuum leaks, loose oil cap, malfunctioning PCV valve, leaks at throttle body, unseated oil dip stick, something blocking the MAF inlet screen.
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- #1046 of 1218
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Re: Mass Air Flow Sensor [Mr_Shiftright]
by az_hvy
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Apr 19, 2009 (3:16 am)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Apr 18, 2009 9:20 pm)
Yes there was 2 more I don't have the numbers but both has something to do with running rich. My mechanic ( who I trust and has always been able to diagnose and repair problems right the fist time such as ABS Module, oil cooler and other problems in the past) had the car in and did repair Air Pump / Emissions Tube / Reset Computer. Car ran much better but other codes kept coming up. He suggested instead of "throwing parts at it" that he clear the codes and drive it a couple of days then rescan it. After doing that twice the only codes that came up is the 101 and the other 2 about runnind rich and to much fuel.
The car will run fine but at ideal sometimes will drop down to 2-3 hundred rpms jump back up to 600 sometimes all the way to 1200, it will even die sometimes.
Any other time I would let "Back To Basics" fix it but Dave does have a policy of only repair with re manufactured parts when new ones are not available. After being just laid off and money is tight I really cant afford to spend 550 when 300 will repair it
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- #1047 of 1218
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Re: Mass Air Flow Sensor [az_hvy]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
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Apr 19, 2009 (7:36 am)
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Replying to: az_hvy (Apr 19, 2009 3:16 am)
Well he's in front of the car and I'm not so if he's confident about the MAF, okay, but if he's wrong, you shouldn't have to pay for it---that's all I'm saying. This trouble code is tricky.
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- #1048 of 1218
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Re: Oil on Spark Plugs [yaboy20031]
by ciaradior
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Apr 20, 2009 (11:02 am)
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Replying to: yaboy20031 (Aug 08, 2008 9:34 am)
Oh wow Im having that sameeeee issue PLUS MORE.... Ok, get this I've been having problems with my Catera since day one. I'm beginning to believe its a . I just hope its not. Well, it was time to renew my registration and take it to pass emissions. I'm thinking Im in the clear, good to go, ready to ride. NO. The mechanic tells me that some code comes up saying the engine light indicator bulb is blown or missing, meaning my engine light never comes on when I crank up the car. I never notice that. So, I failed emissions . I contacted a local mobile mechanic to see if he can change the bulb for me me. Thankfully he only charged me $20 bucks. Every one else wanted $70 bucks an hour or a flat rate of $150. Just to remove a cluster which I honestly couldve done myself. Anyways, he replaced it and my engine light came on but it stayed on . This was becoming more and more disappointing. Well, I told him that a few monhs ago I ran a test on my car and it came back as two misfires. So the mechanic said "well that could be it, you need a tune up, that may possibly turn the engine light off." So as he is replacing my spark plugs, the ones left of the engine when facing it were just fine, but the right ones were not. As soon as he took them out I was in shock. He was wiping oil off them. I asked him if that was oil and he said yes, I said thats not normal!!?? He said NOPE. He said this may be a possible blown head gasket or crack head. I said that could explain why my PSI would get low sometimes. After he finished the tune up he than started up the car and stepped on the gas and clouds of white smoke blew out my exaust. Now at this point Im about to pass out. This was only suppose to be a blown bulb. The mechanic than said he didn't expect white smoke to come out my exaust. He asked me if I had any leaks. I told him that my radiator fluid was getting low at times but couldn't ever find where the leak was. He than said that it could be a blown head. I don't know what to do now. Now I can't drive the car because I need to pass emissions. Im not sure if its really a blown head or not. Has anyone else have these depressing problems? Could it possibly be less severe than a blown head? Let me know. Thanks.. Sorry so long.
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- #1049 of 1218
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In Orange County CA
by wadie1
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Apr 21, 2009 (11:22 pm)
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Hi,
Would anyone know of a good mechanic for the Catera in the Orange County CA area? After reading many of the posts the one standout things is this car is a bit special and needs trained hands. I've no particular problems now but I do want to keep the car in shape.
Thanks!
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- #1050 of 1218
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97 Catera Power windows
by dogfish52
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Apr 22, 2009 (9:43 am)
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Hello, My question is my drivers side window quit working, But after letting it sit overnight I went to try it and it went down and back up, then quit again. Are the back windows motors inter changeable with the front? Besides checking the fuse are there other things I can do to maybe save a few bucks? Thanks.
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- #1051 of 1218
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Re: HEAD GASKET 97 CATERA [txshldm]
by alex20ss
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Apr 26, 2009 (8:07 am)
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Replying to: txshldm (Apr 07, 2009 2:19 pm)
hello i had abouth the same problem. leaking coolant
so i tooked it to the delaer and they don't know much abouth this car. they told me to leave it there until they find the problem but i din't, so after couple of day asking almost every body abouth the problem, (leaking coolant) i came to the conclusion that most of the time is the heating control valve. please let me know if that help.
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- #1052 of 1218
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Re: 97 Catera Power windows [dogfish52]
by country2
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Apr 26, 2009 (11:35 am)
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Replying to: dogfish52 (Apr 22, 2009 9:43 am)
Sounds to me like you have a bad switch or a loose wire or a broken wire. It isn't the fuses because if it blow a fuse it wouldn't work again until you replaced the fuse and it did so it isn't that. Does the window go up and down slow or fast when you do get it to work. When a window motor gets bad, a lot of times it gets real slow and will go up slow but down fast. No matter what it is you are most likely going to take apart the door to work on it where it is the motor or the wiring so when you take the door panel off and start looking at wiring , move around switch and wiring while you are trying to get window to work. You can put a jumper wire to your window motor and see if the window motor works after you unplug it. Since one window doesn't work and the rest do then just check the one wire that goes to the drivers window. If it works sometime and not others, I think it is a switch or wire but you can only fine out by taking it apart and trying it.
I would really dought if the window motor interchanges since I haven't ever seen that before but if you call a parts house, they should tell you.
You should hope it is the motor because if it isn't then it turns into hours of work to trouble shoot the problem.
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- #1053 of 1218
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Rear tie rod ends
by britn
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May 05, 2009 (12:28 pm)
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Does anyone know of any place that sells after market tie rod ends for this car for the rear? I'd tried and tried and can't find anyone selling them, and I'd hate to pay the dealership, or give one more penny to Cadillac or GM for this pile of sh*t car! Oh, it's a 2K sport, if it matters.
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- #1054 of 1218
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Re: Rear tie rod ends [britn]
by gnguru
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May 05, 2009 (2:48 pm)
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Replying to: britn (May 05, 2009 12:28 pm)
There should be an abundance of them at your local salvage yard!!
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