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Sedans Cadillac Catera Cadillac Catera Maintenance & Repair
1218 messages, Last post on Dec 03, 2009 at 4:38 PM
You are in the Cadillac Catera Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Hi My Cat 2000 start fine when it is cold. So, after I drive it for some time, that is, until the indicator of temperature crosses the middle (normal work temperature), it become hot as normally. The problem is when I switch off the car and after I intent to start again - dead. It only starts the lights in the panel and that's all. Then, I have to wait some 30, 40 or more minutes, while the motor refreshes a little bit and start again. It's a big mess when I have to make various stops in different places, always have to wait! I changed the Crankshaft position sensor, but it does't help. Some peoples said that I have to change the MAF, but I think that's not the problem. Can anybody help with this issue? thank a lot. Micldar
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Replying to: micldar (Apr 18, 2009 10:41 am) How to diagnose? Well if you' re on your own, you might buy one of those remote starter switches at Autozone, and hook that up when the problem occurs. This little cheap device allows you to by-pass the ignition switch. The car won't START with the remote starter (you aren't supplying current to the ignition system, only the starter) but it will crank the starter motor. Since this remote goes directly from the battery to the starter relay, you get to test both relay and starter. The down side of this suggestion is that I don't know how difficult it is for you to access the starter motor connections on your car--I'm not that familiar with Cateras. You might also thoroughly clean your battery cables. I don't think doing this will set off your alarm system unless you disconnect the battery and then try to reconnect it. I think you have to open your doors first with your remote keypass before you mess with the battery.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Apr 18, 2009 11:17 am) Regards, |
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Is there anymore to fixing the problem code PO101 (Mass Air Flow Sensor) then replacing the part and disconnecting the negative battery cable to clear the code on a 98 Catera Thx in advance AZ_Hvy
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Replying to: az_hvy (Apr 18, 2009 6:17 pm) Were any other codes set? If so they must be addressed before 101 Also, check for vacuum leaks, loose oil cap, malfunctioning PCV valve, leaks at throttle body, unseated oil dip stick, something blocking the MAF inlet screen.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Apr 18, 2009 9:20 pm) The car will run fine but at ideal sometimes will drop down to 2-3 hundred rpms jump back up to 600 sometimes all the way to 1200, it will even die sometimes. Any other time I would let "Back To Basics" fix it but Dave does have a policy of only repair with re manufactured parts when new ones are not available. After being just laid off and money is tight I really cant afford to spend 550 when 300 will repair it
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Replying to: az_hvy (Apr 19, 2009 3:16 am)
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Replying to: yaboy20031 (Aug 08, 2008 9:34 am)  . I just hope its not. Well, it was time to renew my registration and take it to pass emissions. I'm thinking Im in the clear, good to go, ready to ride. NO. The mechanic tells me that some code comes up saying the engine light indicator bulb is blown or missing, meaning my engine light never comes on when I crank up the car. I never notice that. So, I failed emissions  . I contacted a local mobile mechanic to see if he can change the bulb for me me. Thankfully he only charged me $20 bucks. Every one else wanted $70 bucks an hour or a flat rate of $150. Just to remove a cluster which I honestly couldve done myself. Anyways, he replaced it and my engine light came on but it stayed on  . This was becoming more and more disappointing. Well, I told him that a few monhs ago I ran a test on my car and it came back as two misfires. So the mechanic said "well that could be it, you need a tune up, that may possibly turn the engine light off." So as he is replacing my spark plugs, the ones left of the engine when facing it were just fine, but the right ones were not. As soon as he took them out I was in shock. He was wiping oil off them. I asked him if that was oil and he said yes, I said thats not normal!!?? He said NOPE. He said this may be a possible blown head gasket or crack head. I said that could explain why my PSI would get low sometimes. After he finished the tune up he than started up the car and stepped on the gas and clouds of white smoke blew out my exaust. Now at this point Im about to pass out. This was only suppose to be a blown bulb. The mechanic than said he didn't expect white smoke to come out my exaust. He asked me if I had any leaks. I told him that my radiator fluid was getting low at times but couldn't ever find where the leak was. He than said that it could be a blown head. I don't know what to do now. Now I can't drive the car because I need to pass emissions. Im not sure if its really a blown head or not. Has anyone else have these depressing problems? Could it possibly be less severe than a blown head? Let me know. Thanks.. Sorry so long.
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Hi, Would anyone know of a good mechanic for the Catera in the Orange County CA area? After reading many of the posts the one standout things is this car is a bit special and needs trained hands. I've no particular problems now but I do want to keep the car in shape. Thanks! |
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Hello, My question is my drivers side window quit working, But after letting it sit overnight I went to try it and it went down and back up, then quit again. Are the back windows motors inter changeable with the front? Besides checking the fuse are there other things I can do to maybe save a few bucks? Thanks.
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