- #1040 of 1218
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Radiator fan problem
by tbail1
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Apr 16, 2009 (4:17 pm)
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this Cadillac is a 3.0 ltr - This radiator has 2 switches on it and we need to know which one makes the fan turn on and off. At this point, the fan will not come on.
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- #1041 of 1218
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Ignition problem
by micldar
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Apr 18, 2009 (10:41 am)
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Hi
My Cat 2000 start fine when it is cold. So, after I drive it for some time, that is, until the indicator of temperature crosses the middle (normal work temperature), it become hot as normally. The problem is when I switch off the car and after I intent to start again - dead. It only starts the lights in the panel and that's all. Then, I have to wait some 30, 40 or more minutes, while the motor refreshes a little bit and start again. It's a big mess when I have to make various stops in different places, always have to wait!
I changed the Crankshaft position sensor, but it does't help. Some peoples said that I have to change the MAF, but I think that's not the problem.
Can anybody help with this issue? thank a lot.
Micldar
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- #1042 of 1218
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Re: Ignition problem [micldar]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
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Apr 18, 2009 (11:17 am)
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Replying to: micldar (Apr 18, 2009 10:41 am)
Those are all blind alleys. I think you have a starter or starter relay problem, or on the outside, an ignition switch problem.
How to diagnose? Well if you' re on your own, you might buy one of those remote starter switches at Autozone, and hook that up when the problem occurs. This little cheap device allows you to by-pass the ignition switch. The car won't START with the remote starter (you aren't supplying current to the ignition system, only the starter) but it will crank the starter motor. Since this remote goes directly from the battery to the starter relay, you get to test both relay and starter. The down side of this suggestion is that I don't know how difficult it is for you to access the starter motor connections on your car--I'm not that familiar with Cateras.
You might also thoroughly clean your battery cables.
I don't think doing this will set off your alarm system unless you disconnect the battery and then try to reconnect it. I think you have to open your doors first with your remote keypass before you mess with the battery.
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- #1043 of 1218
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Re: Ignition problem [Mr_Shiftright]
by micldar
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Apr 18, 2009 (1:57 pm)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Apr 18, 2009 11:17 am)
Thanks, I will follow your directions with the remote starter switch, or checking the start system with a technician, and will share the results of the operation. Actually, it has logic what you concluded about this.
Regards,
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- #1044 of 1218
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Mass Air Flow Sensor
by az_hvy
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Apr 18, 2009 (6:17 pm)
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Is there anymore to fixing the problem code PO101 (Mass Air Flow Sensor) then replacing the part and disconnecting the negative battery cable to clear the code on a 98 Catera
Thx in advance
AZ_Hvy
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- #1045 of 1218
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Re: Mass Air Flow Sensor [az_hvy]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
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Apr 18, 2009 (9:20 pm)
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Replying to: az_hvy (Apr 18, 2009 6:17 pm)
Whoa now. Slow down. A PO 101 code doesn't necessarily mean you need a new MAF sensor. These codes do not identify the defective part, only the circuit or system that is having difficulty.
Were any other codes set? If so they must be addressed before 101
Also, check for vacuum leaks, loose oil cap, malfunctioning PCV valve, leaks at throttle body, unseated oil dip stick, something blocking the MAF inlet screen.
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- #1046 of 1218
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Re: Mass Air Flow Sensor [Mr_Shiftright]
by az_hvy
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Apr 19, 2009 (3:16 am)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Apr 18, 2009 9:20 pm)
Yes there was 2 more I don't have the numbers but both has something to do with running rich. My mechanic ( who I trust and has always been able to diagnose and repair problems right the fist time such as ABS Module, oil cooler and other problems in the past) had the car in and did repair Air Pump / Emissions Tube / Reset Computer. Car ran much better but other codes kept coming up. He suggested instead of "throwing parts at it" that he clear the codes and drive it a couple of days then rescan it. After doing that twice the only codes that came up is the 101 and the other 2 about runnind rich and to much fuel.
The car will run fine but at ideal sometimes will drop down to 2-3 hundred rpms jump back up to 600 sometimes all the way to 1200, it will even die sometimes.
Any other time I would let "Back To Basics" fix it but Dave does have a policy of only repair with re manufactured parts when new ones are not available. After being just laid off and money is tight I really cant afford to spend 550 when 300 will repair it
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- #1047 of 1218
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Re: Mass Air Flow Sensor [az_hvy]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
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Apr 19, 2009 (7:36 am)
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Replying to: az_hvy (Apr 19, 2009 3:16 am)
Well he's in front of the car and I'm not so if he's confident about the MAF, okay, but if he's wrong, you shouldn't have to pay for it---that's all I'm saying. This trouble code is tricky.
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- #1048 of 1218
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Re: Oil on Spark Plugs [yaboy20031]
by ciaradior
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Apr 20, 2009 (11:02 am)
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Replying to: yaboy20031 (Aug 08, 2008 9:34 am)
Oh wow Im having that sameeeee issue PLUS MORE.... Ok, get this I've been having problems with my Catera since day one. I'm beginning to believe its a . I just hope its not. Well, it was time to renew my registration and take it to pass emissions. I'm thinking Im in the clear, good to go, ready to ride. NO. The mechanic tells me that some code comes up saying the engine light indicator bulb is blown or missing, meaning my engine light never comes on when I crank up the car. I never notice that. So, I failed emissions . I contacted a local mobile mechanic to see if he can change the bulb for me me. Thankfully he only charged me $20 bucks. Every one else wanted $70 bucks an hour or a flat rate of $150. Just to remove a cluster which I honestly couldve done myself. Anyways, he replaced it and my engine light came on but it stayed on . This was becoming more and more disappointing. Well, I told him that a few monhs ago I ran a test on my car and it came back as two misfires. So the mechanic said "well that could be it, you need a tune up, that may possibly turn the engine light off." So as he is replacing my spark plugs, the ones left of the engine when facing it were just fine, but the right ones were not. As soon as he took them out I was in shock. He was wiping oil off them. I asked him if that was oil and he said yes, I said thats not normal!!?? He said NOPE. He said this may be a possible blown head gasket or crack head. I said that could explain why my PSI would get low sometimes. After he finished the tune up he than started up the car and stepped on the gas and clouds of white smoke blew out my exaust. Now at this point Im about to pass out. This was only suppose to be a blown bulb. The mechanic than said he didn't expect white smoke to come out my exaust. He asked me if I had any leaks. I told him that my radiator fluid was getting low at times but couldn't ever find where the leak was. He than said that it could be a blown head. I don't know what to do now. Now I can't drive the car because I need to pass emissions. Im not sure if its really a blown head or not. Has anyone else have these depressing problems? Could it possibly be less severe than a blown head? Let me know. Thanks.. Sorry so long.
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- #1049 of 1218
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In Orange County CA
by wadie1
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Apr 21, 2009 (11:22 pm)
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Hi,
Would anyone know of a good mechanic for the Catera in the Orange County CA area? After reading many of the posts the one standout things is this car is a bit special and needs trained hands. I've no particular problems now but I do want to keep the car in shape.
Thanks!
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