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Oldsmobile Aurora: Care & Maintenance

467 messages,  Last post on Sep 15, 2009 at 2:01 AM

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What is this discussion about? Oldsmobile Aurora, Sedan

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#461 of 467 Re: I don't know which type... [hammen2] by e_net_rider Aug 12, 2007 (2:40 am)
Replying to: hammen2 (Jul 23, 2007 6:19 pm) That Dexcool is a very confusing issue, other than the sludge issue. As to mixing with air, that is unavoidable since it does not use a recovery bottle, at least on my 96, which has a tank. The fill cap says Dexcool Only. I came upon a class action against GM pertaining to Dexcool. Some of the plaintiff and defendant claims seemed absurd, but that may be lawyers looking for something that will stick with a jury. In any case, I wouldn't change without a good flushing, and intend to use the newer Zerex that claims it will mix with anything. It seems weird that the green would be responsible for head gaskets unless it was worn out and allowing corrosion in the normal seepage paths culminating in failure. That was one of the claims in the suit against Dexcool. So, maybe Dexcool was not the answer to that problem. Certainly any sludge formation on the walls of the cooling system will slow the transfer of heat, possibly causing hot spots and warpage. Unfortunately the truth seems to be hard to find, possibly because of false claims and law suits. I have my fingers crossed that Zerex may have overcome the problems and possibly the makers of the orange stuff have as well. Certain engines have more head gasket problems and so it seems to be a design problem. GM engines seem to have more problems, the newer ones since the death of old 307, 305, and other V-8's. The Ford list is shorter and the old 3.0 12 valve seemed near immune to the problem. Totally different on the 24 valve version. I had heard they were having so much trouble they were considering dropping the 24 valve 2 years ago with the slated death of the Taurus. Basically they are the same engine, just a lot more metal cut away in the head to make room for extra valves likely being the problem.
#462 of 467 Re: Resetting Low Tire Pressure indicator? [georgex5] by thecannon Aug 31, 2007 (7:16 am)
Replying to: georgex5 (Jul 21, 2007 8:07 am) When you first start the car and the low tire pressure comes on use your select button and move to the last function then just before the date comes back on arrow down until you see low tire pressure and reset it there
#463 of 467 secondary air injection system fault code P0410 by blanger Nov 28, 2007 (10:41 am)
My 2001 Aurora V6 has the check engine light on indicating the fault above. I was wondering if anyone has experienced this problem? I did reset the fuses in the engine compartment and the light went off for 3 months. The check engine light is again on with the same fault code. Any suggestions are appreciated
#464 of 467 Re: '97 Aurora Stock Wheels MUST SELL [rissachick] by pops_7 Nov 09, 2008 (2:47 pm)
Replying to: rissachick (Feb 18, 2007 5:21 pm) Hi There,   Still have your Aurora Wheels?   Thanks, Pops_7
#465 of 467 97 Aurora Idler Pulley Bolt by help_needed Jan 11, 2009 (10:13 am)
I took off my pulley that the belt goes around (Idle Pulley) and lost the bolt that i need to put the pulley itself back on could ANYBODY PLEASE SEND A PHOTO OR SIZE AND TYPE OF BOLT that I NEED in order to put my pulley back on. THANX s_johnneyyahoo.com
#466 of 467 95 olds idler pulley how in the world do I get to the idler pulley to chang by jettadan1 Sep 14, 2009 (7:24 pm)
Can someone help me figure out how to change the idler pulley. What do I have to take off to get to it. Replies to this message: e_net_rider (Sep 15, 2009 2:01 am)
#467 of 467 Re: 95 olds idler pulley how in the world do I get to the idler pulley to chang [jettadan1] by e_net_rider Sep 15, 2009 (2:01 am)
Replying to: jettadan1 (Sep 14, 2009 7:24 pm) Been there done that. It is a job. First, plan on changing both pulleys, the idler and the tensioner pulley. Check your tensioner and make sure it is ok or replace it as an assembly. That was an expensive GM part at the time I did it, not available locally either. Beware of after-market parts. The ones I found were a stamped steel pulley and most had a terrible seal on the bearing. Little wonder they only offered 30 day warranty and this is a job you don't want to do a second time. I ended up using NAPA pulleys with one year warranty. Make sure the pulley runs true and I also had to modify one of the pulleys. Because the stamped steel is wider than the original plastic, it can present a problem of clearance if you ever have to change the belt. Since the pulley is just pressed onto the bearing, I was able to drive it on the bearing race enough to allow the needed clearance, yet allow the belt to make full contact. Important! Do not make contact with the bearing any place other than the race! That is the outer steel part of the bearing. I might have used an old bearing race to contact the new one. It will move with light hits of a hammer and I placed wood to soften blows and not dent new pulley. At this point, you may decide to go with GM original.   The JOB! Disconnect Battery! To get at the pulleys, you have to remove the front motor mount. Also one of the bolts you need to remove may be extra long according to what I read of another doing the job. He decided there were far more threads on it than needed. He cut it off and replaced with a shorter one because he could not get clearance to remove. I forget which one it was, but decided if I needed to I would drill a hole through the sheet metal of body if necessary to R&R it. I did not have the problem.   To remove that motor mount, you have to support the engine with a jack. I used a large piece of two by long enough to contact the oil pan side to side. (Make sure it won't crack with the grain or you will likely have an oil pan disaster. You might want to sandwich it with thick plywood or something.) In order to jack it enough, you have to remove the coil pack assembly from its mounting. I just moved mine forward since the plug wires were long enough. Also since you have to slide the engine assembly over, you have to remove a large bolt about six inches long holding the front transmission mount to the frame. Beware of exhaust pipe limitations. It has a flex in it but still has a limit to how far you can move. I did not have to drop my pipe.   That should cover the major part of it. You will still have to loosen or remove stuff to get the job done, such as washer resovoir and alternator. I would recommend locating torque specs for bolts and use a torque wrench. You don't want any stress problems with that aluminum block engine. You will save yourself a lot of money in labor. Good Luck. Make sure you can R&R the belt without having to tear it apart again. That is, you have needed clearance between pulley and block, the thickness of the belt. I think I got the torque values for All Data.

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