Last post on Jul 01, 2010 at 9:24 AM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora
What is this discussion about?
Oldsmobile Aurora, Sedan
#435 of 474 Re: goodbye low oil-pressure readings [brassadonis]
Jun 26, 2006 (3:32 pm)
Yes. That's what "goodbye low oil-pressure readings" meant.
The unit is both a sender and a switch. It is a sender because it presents a variable resistance for the gauge which is translated by the PCM as a pressure reading. It is a switch because if oil pressure drops to zero, the switch will open the circuit that supplies voltage to the fuel pump, thus stopping it. This is a safety feature. There is a by-pass that allows the fuel pump to run while cranking the engine before oil pressure is high enough to close the switch.
Hope this helps.
#436 of 474 Re: goodbye low oil-pressure readings [blk97aurora]
Jun 27, 2006 (11:25 am)
Thanks you BLK97,
Do you know if your temp gauge would rise some before your "low oil pressure" messsage would display/chime as you would stop at a light?
#437 of 474 Re: goodbye low oil-pressure readings [brassadonis]
Jun 27, 2006 (7:19 pm)
I never received a low oil pressure message. My concern was that the oil pressure indication in the DIC would go as low as 7 psi. According to the service manual, the low limit is 5 psi; 7 was too close for my comfort. The warning message turns on at 4 psi and lower.
I have never seen a rapid drop in oil pressure due to rise in temp. When starting up after sitting overnight, the oil pressure is in the 70-80 psi range depending on engine rpm. Then pressure drops gradually as temp goes up.
#438 of 474 RPM reading
Jul 05, 2006 (8:22 am)
My onboard computer reads RPM---,and the oil light remains on, even after getting the oil changed. Are these two items related. I have had this problem for over a year. The car runs fine, but I smell oil burning all time. Could anyone help me.
#439 of 474 Brake Lines
Aug 12, 2006 (9:20 pm)
By the way, I had my rusting break lines replaced. IT was not the fuel lines. I made a mistake.
Aug 13, 2006 (11:21 am)
I just read a message but didn't see an answer. I would like to drain the radiator and refill with dex-cool. but I don't want a power flush (97k) I'm not looking for trouble. I. do have to remove the air low cover to get at the radiator petcock? and 2. is there enough room for what? 3 gallons of mix. and would you run it hot with a garden hose stuck in the overflow of just empty the radiator. Been a long time since I did a flush. I'm only good too -10 I live in Illinois should -30 of -40 to cool properly. and it has Zerex in it. I'm retired and haven't done a flush since my teens.I'm retired. I have newer cars and bought this autobahn as a hobby. I have always loved them and found this an older gent local who wanted a flexfuel car.This car is like new. when I bought it the only things wrong where a cup holder flapper (junk yard) and I had to re-dye the shifter. But I noticed it had carquest radiator hoses and the wrong coolant. The old man had a fast oil change place fix it. Winter comes up fast here. And I still want to put a new battery in it. Otherwish I had my mecanic go over the whole car and knock on wood he can't find any problems or error codes.
I'm a streetrodder I have '40 Ford Deluxe 350 chevy ,305 turbo hydro ,mustang front end. It has electric windows ,air, all shaved, all eletric doors and trunk. Took many trophys. the reason I mention this is it's normally aspirated and doestn't have 100 miles of wires in it like the Olds. It's a striaght forward custom. that I can't drive in the winter. so I took on the Olds figuring it's halfway to a hotrod with some luxrury I can tool around in. The Olds is Champaige no matter how much I buffed it , it 's still not what you call striking. Plenty of high grade wax but........well it's Champaigne. Anyway it's needs coolant and a battery. and you guys know the tricks.
#441 of 474 multi-function switch
Aug 13, 2006 (8:42 pm)
About four weeks ago when the temperature in NJ went over 100 degrees, the headlights of my '97 starting going on and off when it was parked and turned off --> the ol' multi-function switch problem.
I had this problem in 2000. I was fortunate to be able to demonstrate this intermittent problem to the service manager where I bought the car. They replaced the switch with 320 miles left on my 50,000 warranty ~$500.
This time I fixed the problem myself as has been well documented -- electrical contact cleaner and canned air.
#442 of 474 it's battery time again
Sep 05, 2006 (3:57 pm)
Yesterday after working on my Classic with the doors open and ignition switch turned to accessory for about 10 minutes, the battery went flat dead. Battery charger brought it back to life, but I know from previous experience that I need to replace the battery, especially with colder weather on the way.
I cannot find a vented group 76 battery. ACDelco has a group 79 as does Autocraft; both are rated at 880 CCA. The original battery in our Classics was 970 CCA. I am also considering the Optima redtop group 34/78 which has a 800 CCA rating. My concern with both alternatives is losing either 9% or 18% respectively in CCA rating.
Does anyone know of an available vented group 76 battery?
Does anyone have experience with Optima redtop 34/78 or yellowtop D34/78?
Sep 07, 2006 (11:05 am)
Per http://www.optimabatteries.com/publish/optima/americas0/en/config/battery_search- /battery_search.html
when I entered 1998-1999 Olds Aurora (for me), or 1995-1997 (for you), both times it came out with nothing matching the vehicle specs.
I would probably go with the AC Delco replacement regardless (as long as it is vented)... up until my GTO, I had good luck with AC Delco batteries, but the one in my GTO started leaking almost immediately, and I accidentally dropped it when taking to to my dealer. Picked up a Red Top and it's worked exceptionally well on the GTO (lots of GTO Delco battery problems - maybe from the boat ride from Oz?).
I replaced mine in 2002, so I'm guessing this will probably be my last winter with my replacement battery...
#444 of 474 Re: Battery [hammen2]
Sep 07, 2006 (3:54 pm)
Thanks for your reply. Yes, I saw the no match. When I called customer service to verify, the guy told me the 800 CCA Red Top would be OK since weather in NJ rarely gets as cold as 0 degrees. I'm not convinced. He suggested the deep-discharge Yellow Top. But I checked its specs, and it is rated at only 775 CCA.
Did the stock mounting arrangement work OK with your Red Top? Cables?