- #408 of 467
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Re: Time For Tires Again - Need to replace Mine [e_net_rider]
by 2k1olds
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Nov 26, 2005 (6:42 pm)
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Nov 26, 2005 4:13 am)
Another good choice is the Cooper Lifeliner SLE's. Just put a set on my 97 and man, what a difference. Quietist, smoothest tires I have ever owned, with excellent handling. Just my two cents....
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- #409 of 467
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rear brake job advice
by pizza442
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Nov 27, 2005 (11:55 am)
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Anything I should be ready for when doing the rears? Got AC/Delco pads which have a lot of clips with them. Dad claims his universal tool will take care of the pistons but I am afraid it might not and would like to be prepared by knowing what the correct tool number would be just in case.
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- #410 of 467
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Re: rear brake job advice [pizza442]
by e_net_rider
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Nov 28, 2005 (4:30 am)
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Replying to: pizza442 (Nov 27, 2005 11:55 am)
On mine, if I remember correctly, it used something like a spanner tool, two pockets to pick up the pins and turn the cylinder in. If a shop has done them before, be prepared for new boots. Some of these idiots grab the edge with channel locks scaring and creating sharp edges that cut the boot. Clean up with emory cloth and polish with finer.
You might want to pop the piston out anyway to check for corrosion. As long as there is no deep pitting in critical areas, just polish up with fine cloth.
A lot of trouble you say? Well I'd either buy new or do this. Rebuilts are dumped into huge sandblasting and rebored sometimes. They might get a new piston, but not oversized to accomadate the rebore. I've had some rebuilt that had so much metal removed the piston seemed sloppy and even with new clips there was some rattle.
Best way to avoid these internal problems, especially with high priced antilock is to flush a new quart through every couple of years. Brake fluid attracts and absorbs water causing corrosion. Mercedes, before silicone, recommended this as an annual.
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- #411 of 467
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Re: rear brake job advice [e_net_rider]
by pizza442
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Nov 28, 2005 (9:46 am)
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Nov 28, 2005 4:30 am)
Got it done. !st time dealing with the kinda two piece deal. Saw the upper caliper pin was sealed and assumed both were so we started taking off the two huge bolts on the backing plate for the whole bracket when we found that the lower pin comes out and the inner part of the caliper pivots out on the upper pin. Retracting the piston went ok, but 'universal' tool did't seem to have the perfect fit, but loosely got the job done. Only other thing that needs to be done is removal of the clip which holds the parking brake cable to the a-arm so the unit will pivot high enough. No corrosion (Cal. car) and these were the orig. pads--118K! AC/Delco pads came with caliper bolt/bushing grease and new retainer clips for the pads.
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- #412 of 467
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Re: Headlamps [tjm97]
by len10
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Nov 29, 2005 (4:14 pm)
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Replying to: tjm97 (Oct 31, 2005 1:14 pm)
Any update on the best way to accomplish this task. Seems to be a great deal of parts in the way of access via the engine compartment and I have no friends with small hands actually now that I think about it I have no friends or enemies with small hands.
Any info as to which bolts need to be removed?
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- #413 of 467
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Re: Headlamps [len10]
by crankenshaft
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Nov 29, 2005 (7:36 pm)
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Replying to: len10 (Nov 29, 2005 4:14 pm)
I recently upgraded my headlight bulbs to PIAA's. It was truly amazing how easy it is to remove the headlight assembly. On each side of the headlight assembly from the top down there are two cap screws (bolts) with 10mm heads (mine were silver colored). Once removed you can wiggle the whole headlight assembly forward and out. Make sure you don't drop it and I also suggest you place a cloth on the bumper assembly where the headlight is going to slide out so you don't scratch the finish. Give each bulb holder a 1/4 turn or so and it will lift right out. No other tools are needed aside from the 10MM wrench or socket.
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- #414 of 467
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VSS
by e_net_rider
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Dec 01, 2005 (8:38 am)
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Still needing info on whether a bad or intermittant VSS sensor will set code & or check engine light on 97 Sable wagon, 3.0.
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- #415 of 467
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Re: Shocks [Henry]
by carguydavid
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Jan 16, 2006 (3:05 pm)
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Replying to: Henry (Nov 12, 2003 4:16 am)
This message is from quite a while ago but I have a question regarding the rear air shocks. Is there a height adjustment of some sort? Ever since I had the shocks replaced about a year ago the back end has been too high. When I look at other Auroras, I can clearly see that the back end of mine is a good couple inches off. Are there any adjustments that can be done to your knowledge?
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- #416 of 467
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Re: Shocks [carguydavid]
by Henry
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Jan 19, 2006 (6:34 pm)
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Replying to: carguydavid (Jan 16, 2006 3:05 pm)
I had the problem with my 95 that the rear of the car was all the way up. Meaning that the shocks were fully extended. This was not the natural position for the car. I took it to the shop and they told me there was a malfunction in the load leveling system. So my first question to you is - Does your aROARa load level? If you sit on the trunk will it raise up? If not you are already fully extended and the LL has malfunctioned. Sorry, but I do not remember the fix.
Henri
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- #417 of 467
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Serpentine Belt
by dmerolla
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Feb 03, 2006 (8:41 am)
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Does anyone know where I can get a view of the Serpentine belt diagram and any special instruction for changing
Dave
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