- #398 of 467
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Re: How Do I Reset Control Panel after oil change? [josephpolk]
by hammen2
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Oct 26, 2005 (11:27 am)
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Replying to: josephpolk (Oct 26, 2005 6:15 am)
Very simple.
From the online owner's manual (register the car at http://www.mygmlink.com to be able to download an Acrobat PDF of the owner's manual):
How to Reset the Oil Life Indicator
Always reset the engine oil life to 100 percent after every oil change. It will not reset itself. To reset the OIL LIFE reminder, do the following:
1. With the ignition on, press the ENG button so the OIL LIFE percentage is displayed.
2. Press RESET and hold for five seconds. The word RESET will appear, then OIL LIFE 100 % will be displayed.
Hope this helps,
--Robert
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- #399 of 467
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Re: Headlamps [sherimc]
by jbraz
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Oct 31, 2005 (11:10 am)
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Replying to: sherimc (Oct 09, 2005 4:01 pm)
I have the same question about changing a headlamp bulb. The Owner's Manual says to remove two bolts to loosen the headlamp assembly. I can't determine which bolts to remove. Anyone have experience with this?
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- #400 of 467
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Re: Headlamps [jbraz]
by tjm97
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Oct 31, 2005 (1:14 pm)
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Replying to: jbraz (Oct 31, 2005 11:10 am)
removing the headlight assembly is a rediculously arduous task. just access through the engine compartment (get a friend with smalll hands) and dont touch the bulbs
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- #401 of 467
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Re: Oil life [rjs200240]
by e_net_rider
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Nov 14, 2005 (3:40 am)
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Replying to: rjs200240 (Dec 18, 2002 2:47 pm)
On your ABS thing, this is probably an indication that your tires aren't as sticky as you might think. On the discs thing, Motor Week did a peice on them and almost always the warpage is caused by improper torqueing of the wheel nuts. At that time torque sticks were recognized as an alternative to torque wrenches, but I'm now told that ASE will no longer recognize them. So buy a torque wrench and go behind your mechanic everytime you know those nuts are touched, unless you eyeball him everytime and are certain he used the proper spec.
norman
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- #402 of 467
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Re: [garnes]
by e_net_rider
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Nov 14, 2005 (3:49 am)
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Replying to: garnes (Dec 19, 2002 6:43 am)
Got you with the darned impact wrench didn't they? I was present when one customer got a brake job out of them because they couldn't show him a torque wrench. Considering you are lucky if you get two turnings on the discs, I'd say he got screwed anyway and should have made them replace with new of what he had. Pep Boys way of curing the problem against future complaints: Shop manager got an arm full of torque wrenches off the store shelf and passed them out in the shop saying, "Put this in your tool box". I've never seen any of their mechanics pull it from the box. This way you have to watch them use the impact and not the torque wrench. Also this is the primary reason for wrung off studs and some claim not replacing them in sets results in uneven torque. That is the amount of pressure applied by the nut due to frictional differences in the threads. So, even though you use the wrench a different amount of pressure is applied resulting in warpage. Only way around is to oil threads, but then that overtorques. Saw a general spec somewhere that said back off 10 pounds when oiled.
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- #403 of 467
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What is the proper torque for Aurora lug nuts ?
by march94aurora
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Nov 14, 2005 (6:48 pm)
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The dealer had to remove the right tire and wheel well housing when I had the A/C compressor replaced about 1000 miles ago. I think I got bit by the darned impact wrench then. Effect of warped rotor was barely noticible right after the work was done but has become more amplified just lately. I am the only one driving so am sure the brakes have not been overheated. Would like to re-torque and see if things get better. Thanx, Paul
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- #404 of 467
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Les
by rjs200240
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Nov 16, 2005 (2:11 pm)
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Did you ever send me pictures? If so, I didn't get them.
March94, the proper torque is 100ft-lbs on the lug nuts.
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- #405 of 467
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Re: What is the proper torque for Aurora lug nuts ? [march94aurora]
by e_net_rider
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Nov 25, 2005 (7:34 am)
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Replying to: march94aurora (Nov 14, 2005 6:48 pm)
It might help a little, but not fix. I would at least do it and give it a couple of weeks(several heat and cooling sessions) before turning the rotor. But I'd give it a shot at getting that dealer to put a new one on. Why should you pay for his mistake with a turning which removes metal.
The more people that are aware of being stuck and taking the mechanic for it, the sooner this injustice will go away. It's just not brakes. You start these high speed vibrations with warped rotors and it starts unusual, for your driving conditions, wear paterns in suspension parts, CV joints, tires, etc.
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- #406 of 467
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Re: Battery Replacement [redwingsfan]
by e_net_rider
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Nov 26, 2005 (4:06 am)
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Replying to: redwingsfan (Jan 25, 2005 7:52 pm)
Does anyone have details as to when the changes took place. Idiot who previously had car put a non-vented 1/2 the power battery in. I purchased replacement just over a year ago. Vent hook-up was missing so I went to dealer and ordered. I saw it didn't fit like it appeared it should. Through this forum, I think, I learned the replacement battery was slightly smaller. Thoughts went through my head that it was an idiotic thing for GM to do, knowing the vent requirements. Maybe to the point NHTSA should be involved. Now I hear there is a new vent kit for proper fit.
If anyone has dates, I can prove they sold me the wrong kit, when the correct was available.
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- #407 of 467
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Re: Time For Tires Again - Need to replace Mine [Henry]
by e_net_rider
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Nov 26, 2005 (4:13 am)
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Replying to: Henry (May 05, 2005 9:43 am)
If you check the reviews at tire rack, you'll find many owners are more happy with the Khumo than any other. Also much cheaper. Only about 8K on them so far, and can't speak for snow, but seem excellent on all conditions I've seen. Ride, quiet, and wet/dry traction. Had it pushed to the limiter one time.
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