Last post on Jul 01, 2010 at 8:24 AM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora
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Oldsmobile Aurora, Sedan
#465 of 474 97 Aurora Idler Pulley Bolt
Jan 11, 2009 (10:13 am)
I took off my pulley that the belt goes around (Idle Pulley) and lost the bolt that i need to put the pulley itself back on could ANYBODY PLEASE SEND A PHOTO OR SIZE AND TYPE OF BOLT that I NEED in order to put my pulley back on. THANX s_johnneyyahoo.com
#466 of 474 95 olds idler pulley how in the world do I get to the idler pulley to chang
Sep 14, 2009 (7:24 pm)
Can someone help me figure out how to change the idler pulley. What do I have to take off to get to it.
#467 of 474 Re: 95 olds idler pulley how in the world do I get to the idler pulley to chang [jettadan1]
Sep 15, 2009 (2:01 am)
Been there done that. It is a job.
First, plan on changing both pulleys, the idler and the tensioner pulley. Check your tensioner and make sure it is ok or replace it as an assembly. That was an expensive GM part at the time I did it, not available locally either.
Beware of after-market parts. The ones I found were a stamped steel pulley and most had a terrible seal on the bearing. Little wonder they only offered 30 day warranty and this is a job you don't want to do a second time. I ended up using NAPA pulleys with one year warranty.
Make sure the pulley runs true and I also had to modify one of the pulleys. Because the stamped steel is wider than the original plastic, it can present a problem of clearance if you ever have to change the belt. Since the pulley is just pressed onto the bearing, I was able to drive it on the bearing race enough to allow the needed clearance, yet allow the belt to make full contact. Important! Do not make contact with the bearing any place other than the race! That is the outer steel part of the bearing. I might have used an old bearing race to contact the new one. It will move with light hits of a hammer and I placed wood to soften blows and not dent new pulley.
At this point, you may decide to go with GM original.
The JOB! Disconnect Battery! To get at the pulleys, you have to remove the front motor mount. Also one of the bolts you need to remove may be extra long according to what I read of another doing the job. He decided there were far more threads on it than needed. He cut it off and replaced with a shorter one because he could not get clearance to remove. I forget which one it was, but decided if I needed to I would drill a hole through the sheet metal of body if necessary to R&R it. I did not have the problem.
To remove that motor mount, you have to support the engine with a jack. I used a large piece of two by long enough to contact the oil pan side to side. (Make sure it won't crack with the grain or you will likely have an oil pan disaster. You might want to sandwich it with thick plywood or something.)
In order to jack it enough, you have to remove the coil pack assembly from its mounting. I just moved mine forward since the plug wires were long enough.
Also since you have to slide the engine assembly over, you have to remove a large bolt about six inches long holding the front transmission mount to the frame.
Beware of exhaust pipe limitations. It has a flex in it but still has a limit to how far you can move. I did not have to drop my pipe.
That should cover the major part of it. You will still have to loosen or remove stuff to get the job done, such as washer resovoir and alternator.
I would recommend locating torque specs for bolts and use a torque wrench. You don't want any stress problems with that aluminum block engine.
You will save yourself a lot of money in labor. Good Luck.
Make sure you can R&R the belt without having to tear it apart again. That is, you have needed clearance between pulley and block, the thickness of the belt.
I think I got the torque values for All Data.
#468 of 474 shifting
Feb 04, 2010 (8:30 am)
I have a 01 Aurora i just bought. The check engine light keeps coming on, I have had an EGR vale replaced. It seems to shift while driving like from first to second. I took it to a Transmission place and they said it isnt the transmission. Whew!!! It also seems to jerk real hard when i come to a stop sometimes ( as if im putting my foot on the brake and gas at the same time) does any one know what this problem can be
#469 of 474 Re: shifting [love9]
Feb 04, 2010 (1:35 pm)
Are you saying it is stuck in limp home mode, only have gears one and two?
Knowing that it is not the transmission is a plus since one thing that can cause that is some solenoids that can break which are located in the bottom.
What is the code for the check engine?
How many miles on vehicle?
#470 of 474 Re: shifting [e_net_rider]
Feb 05, 2010 (6:31 am)
the codes are showing P420 and P410 and it has 133,000 miles
#471 of 474 Re: shifting [love9]
Feb 05, 2010 (7:18 am)
You still have not said which engine.
I suggest you find a chart specific to the Aurora. Those codes from general charts indicate something going on with bank 1 oxygen. Depending upon which year, you could have as many as four O2 sensors and just below that mileage is when I had three of them puke codes.
I found that none of the aftermarket had as many flutes on the sensor and if you look through the forums you will see that aftermarket parts did not work out well for combustion related issues.
If it turns out to be a code more specific to sensors, and it is not a heater issue such as blown fuse, I'd replace all of them and get them in AC/Delco brand.
I have used Rock Auto and GM parts direct. There are likely other sources as well that give a hefty discount. Definitely read the info at GM parts direct before placing order there.
#472 of 474 Re: shifting [e_net_rider]
Feb 05, 2010 (7:58 am)
im sorry. its a 3.5L V6
#473 of 474 Re: shifting [love9]
Feb 05, 2010 (9:04 am)
I had to ask because of the year. Earlier models only had the more common 4.0 Aurora engine by Cadillac, V8.
What I said about getting appropriate OBDII chart still applies. Some of those numbers mean slightly different things for different vehicles, even though it might have same engine because of how the computer was programmed. I don't know that engine is as fussy as the 4.0, but there are slight differences in aftermarket parts.
I took a chance on using a Borg-Warner fuel pressure regulator on the 4.0 because I knew they made a lot of such parts for GM. They admitted that though they designed per information they got from GM, for aftermarket, it might not be exactly the same and it seemed to me that I lost some power. The main reasons I would accept an aftermarket would be that I know it is exactly the same part or the GM OE is having a high failure rate and I know that something else is likely better.
One such part I tried a few times was the common Throttle Position Sensor which was under $30 bucks aftermarket and the GM was 76. The OE''s had lasted nearly 100K. The aftermarket lasted 6 months. One of them was even replaced under warranty, but still the time involved with changing it and recalibrating the fuel system to it, the cheap one ended up costing me 2 to 3 times more.
#474 of 474 Please Help Pulleys and Lights
Jul 01, 2010 (8:24 am)
I have a 99 Aurora.
Does anyone know how much new pulleys will cost me. I've been on the road the past month (nearly 3000 mi). After my last trip, there was some noise coming from under the hood. Someone told ,e that its was my pulleys. He said it was a easy fix. Just trying to figure out how much this will run me.
Also after I had my altenator replaced my lights randomly flick on and off. No clue what it may be, and no one else seems to know either. I tried taking the battery off, and it worked for a little while. They come flicker randomly through out the day draining my battery, and causing it to die.