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Sedans Oldsmobile Aurora Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair
4284 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 6:21 AM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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The driver side a/c is blowing air only a slight bit cooler than outside temp. Passenger side is blowing cold. Back seat is blowing about the same as the driver side. Needless to say it is very hot inside when temps outside exceed 70 degrees. Any ideas on what might cause this? I have changed the temp sensor located in the dash just below the steering wheel - NO LUCK! |
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| FOR # 9, I ASSUME YOU HAVE DUAL CLIMATE CONTROL (YOU DIDN'T MENTION THE YEAR). HAVE YOU TRIED CYCLING THE TEMP CONTROL FROM FULL HOT TO FULL COLD SEVERAL TIMES? IT SOUNDS LIKE THE DRIVER SIDE TEMP DOOR IS STICKING, DISCONNECTED, OR THE ACTUATOR MOTOR IHAS FAILED. THE REAR TEMP IS CONTROLLED BY THE DRIVER'S TEMP NOT THE PASSENGER.I WOULD TRY CYCLING THE TEMP SEVERAL TIMES FIRST SINCE A STICKING CONDITION IS THE MOST COMMON. GOOD LUCK!!! | |
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Before becoming an Aurora fanatic, I was a Fiero fanatic (how's that for picking orphans?). When my V6 Fiero developed a hesitation problem, I cured it by cleaning the throttle body with Gunk Air Intake and Throttle Body Cleaner (spray can). There was a lot of black stuff (carbon I suppose) downstream from the throttle butterfly that the Gunk dissolved away; this was done with the engine running. That fixed the hesitation problem. Recently my Aurora started to exhibit similar slight hesitation. I found the Gunk, removed the air intake hose, and stopped. There was the mass aif flow sensor between me, the Gunk, and the throttle body. Since the instructions on the can read, "Do not spray across mass airflow sensor," I did not proceed. I haven't had the time to further disassemble. I assume that the engine will not run with the MAF removed and therefore the Gunk cannot be used in the same way as with my Fiero. In the meantime, I poured 12 oz. of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner into the fuel tank. The hesitation is not completely gone, but it is less than before. |
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Had this problem, too. Driver side warmer than pass and neither one cooling well enough. Ended up being low on refrigerant. The Aurora and the Riviera both have this dual set up and apparently this is how it shows low freon. I probably have the famous leak in the evaporator in the dash, too.Jay
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I had that problem with an Oldsmobile 98 I owned (1986). Took it to about 3 separate garages before someone finally fixed it. I must have had every inch of the linkage oiled/greased with absolutely no change. The shop that finally fixed it did by reprogramming the engine management computer! Apparently some setting was wrong, causing some adjustment to be set way out, somehow causing the accelerator to stick. As I watched him, he punched in a number of codes - the engine idled up and down - and DONE. No more sticking. I would suggest taking your car to a shop that's not afraid to mess with the computers. They can probably take care of it. |
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| Sounds like they reprogrammed the position of the idle solenoid. I had the problem on my Park Avenue but could only fix it by cleaning the throttle body. I suppose it's possible that the throttle butterfly could stick in the throttle body if it is allowed to fully close--pulling it back just a hair could fix that. Is your idle speed up a bit? | |
| The car I mentioned was a '86 Ninety-Eight that I had several years ago (traded it for my mid-life crisis firebird 6 or 7 years ago). Unfortunately, I don't remember the details. But what you describe could have been it. However, while the firebird had the throttle-body fuel injection, the 98 had multi-port. Does the throttle-body butterfly still apply to MPFI? | |
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I just aquired my fathers 1995 OLDS AURORA. It has 177000 highway miles. Just recently, the transmision is now stuck in second gear while in drive, and will not shift up into any other gear rendering the car undriveable. My local dealer estimates the repair of anywheres from $400to$4000 dollars to repair. They are uncertain of the real problem, all they seam to want to do is sell me a different car; giving me a trade in of $1000 (not!!!) They won't give me a straight answer; I feel they know that it might be a simpler problem than what it really is and want this car, the tech seams quite interested in it, I don't want to sell it!! I want to drive it and keep this unique vehical!!! The transmision was recently flushed by another AURORA dealer within the last 3 months if this helps at all. Any help or direction to save this incredible automobile from service diaster would be greatly appreciated.(do you know any tricks I could do) I am capable of doing most of the work myself, also, if anyone has info on where I could locate good repair manuals (dealer manuals) that would also help. |
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You can look on ebay for a set of manuals for your Aurora. That's where I got mine - they are VERY helpful. My parents have a 1995 Aurora that had trans troubles around 90k. Having a whole new transmission (and torque converter) put in by the dealer was around $2,000. Those guys want that car because they think they can fix it cheap and sell it at a big profit. See if there's a Cadillac dealer around that you can have look at it or take it to a private mechanic and get a second opinion on it. I know of a website that you can look up used car parts on, edmunds won't let me post it, so e-mail me at ryan  shucknet.com and I'll send it to you - could probably get a rebuilt tranny there.
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| Won't play certain cds, trys and spits it out. I know this has been up here before but can't remember. | |
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