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Sedans Oldsmobile Aurora Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair
4283 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 10:33 AM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: kpd2 (Oct 26, 2009 4:26 pm) I brought this up with my experienced mechanic and he was aware of the issue.. He does not use Dex Cool. You may want to Google Dex Cool for the details. |
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Replying to: airforce5 (Oct 27, 2009 6:35 am) |
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| I have a 2001 Aurora 3.5 that is leaking water into the floorboard of the driver's side back seat. I have blown compressed air through the drain tubes towards the front of the sun roof... and they appear to be clear. Are there any other "drains" from the sunroof????? The water is not dripping from the roof, as the tops of the seats and headliner are not wet. Could it be the seal around the back window???? The trunk appears to be dry.... but I do understand that water leaks can be hard to trace back. Any help would be very appreciated!!!!! | |
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Recently my A/C compressor has been making a whining noise. The A/C in my car has not worked for about two years. I do not want my A/C compressor to seize on me and I don't have the money right now to buy a new or used one and pay for the installation. So, I am going to attempt to take out the Compressor and replace the serpentine belt with a shorter size. Does anyone have any advice before I start this project sometime next week? It is a 1998 Olds Aurora w/ V8. Thanks in advance, Anthony
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Replying to: apboston85 (Nov 03, 2009 10:19 pm) What you are attempting to do sounds more of a headache than what it is worth. If the compressor is actually engaging, just remove the electrical plug. If it is the bearing you could have just the bearing replaced, maybe. But because you say it has not been working you might be wasting money on bearing if compressor is bad. The main question would be, "why was AC not working?" Was the problem because of blend doors or control head, or something to do with the freon circuit? That is, did the freon leak out, or possibly a blockage in system? Still, in either case I would say it is best to change the pump and leave the wires disconnected at the compressor. Often you are required to buy a new accumulator at the same time as compressor to get long term warranty. Just make sure you put the proper amount of oil in system. Leave system sealed until you are ready to finish repair, then disconnect at accumulator and pump, flush lines, reconnect and then finish charging. Or you could get the flush out of the way before installing new pump and accumulator. I would also check the orifice tube while it is apart.
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Nov 04, 2009 4:12 am) The bearing in the a/c compressor had a lot of play in it at the time but was still functional. enet knows more than I do about this stuff. But it is not an easy repair the way these items are packed so close to the right fender well and down in there. Regarding disconnecting the wire to the a/c compressor. Wouldn't that isolate the noise problem between the idler assembly and the compressor? Also, there is a button on the center console by all of the hvac controls that says AC. It is lighted when the a/c is operating automatically and can be pressed to shut off the a/c compressor when you don't want it cycling on and off. |
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Replying to: jeff8789 (Oct 16, 2008 4:45 pm) |
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Live in Florida, bought the car used in 2005 with about 50,000 miles, great shape inside and out. Once the weather turned cold enough for a heater I noticed that occassionally the car would just stop running while sitting at a red light. It started right up again and didn't show anything in the information center. It still does it now and then.
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| I drive two vehicles changing out between the 1998 Aurora and a 1996 Lumina. I had been driving the Lumina for awhile and changed back to the Aurora driving at night when it started raining and I reached to the left for the windshield wipers and messed with the Aurora dimmer switch/cruised control instead, then realized my error. Upon returning home, I turned the car off and went inside, next day the battery was dead, seems while trying to turn on the wipers, I turned something on that drained the battery, anyways the battery was dead. It was fully recharged and the car starts up as always, however since then the information center lighting, the radio lighting, and other center dash lights, radio lights, thermostat light, a/c-heater light intermittently just disappear or don't light up when the car starts. Now, another oddity since that time and it didn't start happening immediately after the dead battery episode but, I started to hear an chattering, arcing sound from the left side of the dash and I think it was coming from the dimmer/cruise, once I turned off the cruise at the switch, it stopped. A day or so later I stood in the yard with the dog early in the morning and the parking lights on the car flashed on and then went off again several times, I feared the battery would be dead again but the car started right up as always. The cables were removed completely from the battery in an effort to reset it if you will and it seemed to work for a short time, the dash lights came on and stayed on when they should have, the arcing sound was gone for a week or two then it started all over again with the exception of the flashing parking lights. Ideas or educated guesses?! | |
| Another problem with it! I drove it a few miles one night and noticed the temperature was rising, I turned off the a/c, parked and turned it off. The windows fogged up, the temp kept rising. I was able to drive it home and park it. Next morning checked the antifreeze and it was not at the cold line, added some antifreeze and its been fine for a couple of weeks. Today driving in heavy stop and go traffic I noticed the temp rising again, turned off the air while sitting and on while moving, got home and smelled antifreeze. It's dripping front and center about a foot back from the hood latch. Suggestions? | |
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