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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

4283 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 10:33 AM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: ambercococleo (Oct 25, 2009 3:30 pm) |
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I have a 2001 V6, I've had it for 2 1/3 years and 35k miles (has 120k) and realized it has the standard green antifreeze not DEX COOL. I've had no problems with it while I've owned it Does it matter? Should I drain it and replace with DEX COOL? Thanks KPD
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I lose power when its raining or very high humidity to the point the car going up hills crawls and backfires and i have to pull over and restart.the engine is hard to start in moist weather and at idle surges from 500 rpm to 1500 rpm constantly...is it the Mass Air Flow Sensor?
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Replying to: kpd2 (Oct 26, 2009 4:26 pm) I brought this up with my experienced mechanic and he was aware of the issue.. He does not use Dex Cool. You may want to Google Dex Cool for the details. |
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Replying to: airforce5 (Oct 27, 2009 6:35 am) |
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| I have a 2001 Aurora 3.5 that is leaking water into the floorboard of the driver's side back seat. I have blown compressed air through the drain tubes towards the front of the sun roof... and they appear to be clear. Are there any other "drains" from the sunroof????? The water is not dripping from the roof, as the tops of the seats and headliner are not wet. Could it be the seal around the back window???? The trunk appears to be dry.... but I do understand that water leaks can be hard to trace back. Any help would be very appreciated!!!!! | |
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Recently my A/C compressor has been making a whining noise. The A/C in my car has not worked for about two years. I do not want my A/C compressor to seize on me and I don't have the money right now to buy a new or used one and pay for the installation. So, I am going to attempt to take out the Compressor and replace the serpentine belt with a shorter size. Does anyone have any advice before I start this project sometime next week? It is a 1998 Olds Aurora w/ V8. Thanks in advance, Anthony
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Replying to: apboston85 (Nov 03, 2009 10:19 pm) What you are attempting to do sounds more of a headache than what it is worth. If the compressor is actually engaging, just remove the electrical plug. If it is the bearing you could have just the bearing replaced, maybe. But because you say it has not been working you might be wasting money on bearing if compressor is bad. The main question would be, "why was AC not working?" Was the problem because of blend doors or control head, or something to do with the freon circuit? That is, did the freon leak out, or possibly a blockage in system? Still, in either case I would say it is best to change the pump and leave the wires disconnected at the compressor. Often you are required to buy a new accumulator at the same time as compressor to get long term warranty. Just make sure you put the proper amount of oil in system. Leave system sealed until you are ready to finish repair, then disconnect at accumulator and pump, flush lines, reconnect and then finish charging. Or you could get the flush out of the way before installing new pump and accumulator. I would also check the orifice tube while it is apart.
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Nov 04, 2009 4:12 am) The bearing in the a/c compressor had a lot of play in it at the time but was still functional. enet knows more than I do about this stuff. But it is not an easy repair the way these items are packed so close to the right fender well and down in there. Regarding disconnecting the wire to the a/c compressor. Wouldn't that isolate the noise problem between the idler assembly and the compressor? Also, there is a button on the center console by all of the hvac controls that says AC. It is lighted when the a/c is operating automatically and can be pressed to shut off the a/c compressor when you don't want it cycling on and off. |
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Replying to: jeff8789 (Oct 16, 2008 4:45 pm) |
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