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Sedans Oldsmobile Aurora Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair
4284 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 6:21 AM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: tootertater (Sep 27, 2009 5:34 pm) |
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Replying to: ozz1 (Sep 02, 2009 10:01 am) http://mattwindsurfs.wordpress.com/2007/12/30/gm-pass-key-ill-pass/ The wires on my 99 are white, they are in a black casing that runs from the ignition switch over the steering column and back into a bundle of wires that connect to harness on the left side of the firewall on the drivers side. Good luck |
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Our 2001 Aurora won't start or turn over. It blew the starter relay switch and we replaced that with a new one. Checked all others in engine area and under back seat fuse box but all are good. We had battery, alternator, starter, ignition control module checked at auto parts store but all were at full strength. Any suggestions?
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Replying to: ambercococleo (Oct 10, 2009 4:38 pm) Can you hear the starter attempt to engage? GM had three engines that were highly effected with blown gaskets in connection with DexCool, the 3.0, 3.?, & 3.8. You may have blown gasket, flooding combustion chamber, and water will not compress thus you can not get it to turn over. Pull spark plugs and try it. You could still have a seized up engine if everything in the start circuit is working. |
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Replying to: Henry (Jan 18, 2007 2:05 pm) Any help would be appreciated!!!! Dan |
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Oct 11, 2009 5:54 am)
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| Can anyone tell me how to reset my welcome name on the DIC message? Mine says welcome Alex but I've tried holding the reset button to erase the name or at least have just a hello. Bugs the crap outta me. | |
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Replying to: ambercococleo (Oct 23, 2009 9:06 pm) You didn't say where you live (outdoor temperatures) or the situations where the overheating occurs (stop and go). Is the coolant level in the overflow tank.correct? Do you have to keep adding coolant? If so, there is a leak...... somewhere. Is the coolant fresh/functional? Antifreeze (fresh) keeps water from freezing but it also raises the boiling temperature. The mixture in the engine coolant system optimally should be 50%. Is there any coolant on the ground, visible under the car after you left it parked overnight? Some folks with 1999 and prior Auroras find they are missing the rubber air deflector under the front fascia (bumper) which provides adequate air flow up and through the radiator to cool the coolant. Or steam under the hood? Check in the dark with a flashlight when the engine is hot and running, especially around hoses, hose connections and the water pump. Don't reach in and get your hand chopped off! Is the overflow tube between the radiator and the overflow tank blocked, not allowing the coolant in the overflow tank to replenish the radiator? Sometimes the coolant level in the overflow tank appears correct but the radiator is low on coolant! There may be some blockage. Is your overflow tank cracked and leaking? Some have had this problem. Do you smell antifreeze burning but get no leakage on the ground? This could indicate a head gasket leak.. You might find coolant in the motor oil.....discoloration and smell of the oil. And you are right, a failing thermostat stuck in the closed or partially closed position could cause the overheating because the the engine is not getting enough cooler coolant from the radiator. It is one of the less expensive starting points if you come up blank with the more obvious stuff. I have had a leaking radiator where the top radiator hose connects to the radiator which no one could find for 6 months until the system was pressure tested. I also had a slightly seeping/failing water pump which was discovered at the same time. Mechanic found these using the "in the dark with a flashlight" approach and a simple system pressure test. Have your mechanic check this stuff before jumping in to any repairs. I am fortunate to have a long and positve relationship of 15 years with a private mechanic who actually diagnoses the problem from the symptoms, starting with the most obvious and cheapest stuff first.. He doesn't just start throwing my money up against the wall with replacement parts, hoping some of that money sticks and the problem is solved. He is not the cheapest, but I have never had a "bring back, it ain't fixed." Good luck! .
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Replying to: pscheid (Oct 24, 2009 3:34 am) And if you are going as far as to replace thermostat, consider doing a flush and fill since you will lose much of the fluid anyway. To do it properly you will need to remove thermostat and run water through system until it is clear. Add flush and run without thermostat and I prefer to do this on hotter days since it gets radiator hotter allowing chemicals to work better. Some say to never flush because it causes leaks. In truth these were likely impending failures that the antifreezes antileak properties were hiding. And if you have a weak water pump, it will likely show up as well because water does not lubricate as well as antifreeze. Weak heater cores will show up as well. Also I've found that the crud created with Dexcool is rather stubborn and might take extra effort to remove from radiator. I talked with a radiator shop and they say they can get it out and it was only about $25 if I took the radiator to them. A very small price compared to a new one. And don't forget hoses. Yours being an '01, you may have some life left in them if they are originals. Too often they get replaced with cheap hoses and I made such a mistake. It blew when it was one year old. My past experience on Olds and Pontiac was that V-8, non-serpentine belts and hoses were good for about 10 years. The OEM was of higher quality than base available. Belts were often DayCo and I suspect the hoses were too. So, either by OEM or find a parts place that has access to all models. Example, I found one that handles full DayCo line and moving one step up from OEM was a cogged belt. The next step up was a Top-Cog. Remember, no belt will last if pulley alignment is wrong. I had an OEM belt that I changed at 120K because it was starting to crack. You did not post mileage on vehicle. Most seem to love the vehicle, 95-99 especially, but hate repairs, so you will have to look at it as an investment if you wish to keep. And I'd look around for the info on bonding the radiator, etc. to ground to stop galvanic corrosion. |
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Replying to: pscheid (Oct 24, 2009 3:34 am) |
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