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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

4284 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 6:21 AM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: KarenS (Aug 31, 2001 7:39 am)
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the problem is with the receiver that activates the electrical system when the key is inserted in the key slot by the computer chip in the key. my aurora did the same thing and the gm dealer said he could bypass that portion of the security system for about three hundred dollars. luckily it cured itself after getting that message a half a dozen times over a period of a month, i could always get it started by wiping the key and waiting 3 minutes. the dealer said it was quite complex and didn't suggest doing it myself because it is tied into the computer and more damage could result if the bypass wasn't done correctly.
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Replying to: ozz1 (Sep 02, 2009 10:01 am) If you read through the forum, I think there is info. It might be the two wires from the ignition to the box have a problem or the ignition switch not making good contact with the key. Some have put a resistor of the same value as the one on the key at the box location with success. This deletes the two wires from the ignition switch and your car will think the key is always in when it comes to security. |
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my radiator has a crack right below where the upper radiator hose goes into the radiator.... hear this is a common problem...wondering if anyone has used j/b weld to fix this problem or has any ideas rather than a new radiator.... $$$$$..
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Replying to: rahrah99 (Sep 10, 2009 1:22 pm) cheap way, but I wouldnt skimp on that engine block. the more stress you put on it the less you'll get out of it. Good luck. New radiator was around 150$ with fluid costs around 175 total. Take it to the dealer and they will charge you 600-700 for the job if not more. |
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Replying to: rahrah99 (Sep 10, 2009 1:22 pm) If you want, I will look up what I paid to get this stuff done. |
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just got off the phone with a radiator dealer... if i pull it they will replace the plastic end cap for 100.00... i am going to go that way.. really didn't want to skimp on her.... luv the car.. surely wasn't going to give her a drink of stop leak like someone told me to do..
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Replying to: rahrah99 (Sep 10, 2009 2:17 pm) Assume you do a major flush to get gunk out of system. You may damage water pump and it be short lived. But you could save most of the fluid and only have to add a little with the swap. Buy quality new hoses, not the cheap ones, they won't last. While the radiator is in the shop, you can have them clean it. A flush just does not do the job of some of that gunk and won't remove corrosion layer from inside core. So you spend a little on that. Your radiator is still old, other tank is aged and core is likely getting weak. Maybe it lasts a year, but then you are back to buying a new one plus fluids and labor. Theirs or yours. |
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Replying to: rahrah99 (Sep 10, 2009 2:17 pm) When mine let go, I nearly got stuck 40 miles from home in the middle of nowhere with the wife and two dogs in the car in the dead of the frigid New England Winter. My 1998 now has 110K miles and is my daily driver 24/7/365. I too initially hesitated at a new radiator because of the cost. But I don't do the work myself. And I planned on getting a few more years out of the car and didn't want to travel this road again. For me, I was not comfortable pondering the average effective remaining life expectancy out of a repaired 10 year old radiator (at the time), even if it was boiled out and had been flushed 3 times previously with new/fresh coolant added. So beyond the safety/peace of mind factor, the labor costs for both the short and long term became the deciding factor for me to simply replace the old one with a new one. Cheaper in my mind to do it once and get it over with. Another thing in the back of my mind was reading all of the posts from "classic" 1995-1999 Aurora owners about cooling issues in the heat of the summer. There isn't a grill on the car for cooler air intake, away from the scorching pavement, and you can just watch that water teperature needle climb sitting in traffic! |
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Replying to: rahrah99 (Sep 10, 2009 2:17 pm) 1. Core deteriorates over time even with regular maintenance/fluid changes, etc. 2. Leak developed slowly but when the core gave way maximum travel distance before all coolant was gone was approximately 0.5 miile. 3. Have peace of mind with a new radiator; no worries when the weakest spot in the core will give way leaving me high and dry. With the heat buildup and 100+ temps Texas affords us, I just couldn't justify gambling on how much longer the original radiator would last. Good luck. |
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