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Sedans Oldsmobile Aurora Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair
4283 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 10:33 AM
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Replying to: cadillacraig (Apr 09, 2009 8:47 pm) Can you be more specific? Did you have some associated code? |
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Replying to: jimd604 (May 08, 2009 4:18 pm) How many O2 sensors do you have on your model? (Can be up to four.) |
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Replying to: cjl49 (Apr 08, 2009 2:15 pm) Is the Autozone a new or rebuilt? It could be that the labor is over-priced. By that I mean the hours listed in book which might show 10 hours but they actually only need 3. Shops use short cuts that are not approved too often. Example, I had an 86 Parisienne with Olds 307 and water pump failed. It had seven belts and much of the brackets/braces for other parts were either attached to the water pump housing or in the way. Upon returning the core it was discovered they did not give me the lifetime pump I had asked for which made me mad because it was near 8 hours to do the job properly. Mechanic in store overheard conversation and sad he could do it in 1 hour. I asked how with all those brackets and parts in the way. Answer, "Simple, just bend them out of the way!" That meant there were a lot of customers out there that had belts running crooked and wearing prematurely. I'm unsure of the procedure to change on this vehicle, but I think I read somewhere that it involves lowering the sub-frame. Tools for popping the tie rod ends are loanable at Autozone and if you are moderately mechanically inclined this is something you might consider doing yourself. Read back a few months and you will see a horror story a lady had when a shop did the job. My suspicion is they screwed up the job and then don't want to be responsible. Possibly overtorqued (bolts then broke or stripped) or left bolts loose resulting in near catrostrophic failure about a year later. |
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Apr 08, 2009 2:40 pm) Bearings on the idlers were going out and to get at them you pull the front mount and lower to have room. Major effort for me. Dealer was outrageous price, and the plastic pulley on the tensioner was only available as an assembly, double ouch! I went to Autozone and picked up aftermarket. They were not available at Pep Boys then. Parts only carried 30 days and a quick look told me why. The seals on the bearings were horrible. Basically they had no seal against the hub of the bearing. Just flat rubber up to it, no feathered edge, no garter spring. So anything such as dust or water would get centrifugally get impelled into the bearing. Pure crap! The ones from NAPA were far superior and just a few dollars more, but they also had a fault with one pulley. Its position on the bearing would not have allowed for changing the belt without disassembly, pulling the front mount again. I solved that by pressing the pulley farther onto the bearing allowing just enough room to slide new belt between it and brackets. The low ball can happen anywhere. You just have to make sure you are locked in with the price. And then there is always the uncertainty of whether local independents are using the top quality part. It usually is the same part you can buy at Autozone, PepBoys, Discount Auto, etc. And at twice the price! |
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Replying to: caddy_olds (Mar 14, 2009 10:37 am) All Data has the charts and procedure for what is going on but I haven't looked recently. Mine has a problem where it sometimes stays on and I get the clean key message when the vehicle interior is hot. I have not yet located the solution. It might be the wiring from ignition to the pass-key box or maybe the box itself. |
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Replying to: e_net_rider (May 09, 2009 8:11 am)
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Replying to: jimd604 (May 08, 2009 4:18 pm) |
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Replying to: auroragurl (May 06, 2009 6:47 am) |
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Replying to: jimd604 (May 14, 2009 8:15 am) If you knew the exact codes, troubleshooting charts are available to diagnose problem. Almost all codes have a few pre-checks to make sure the computer is diagnosing correctly the code, such as vacuum leaks, or the presence of other codes which it will then show you the proper one to start fixing first. Did you actually talk to the mechanic or was it the guy in charge. I hate when you get the in-between guy. Truth is often obscured. GM made a bad decision in closing dealerships, in my opinion. Worse than bankruptcy. Hate to see you paying for unnecessary parts. Current guy will likely say it is different problem and without you knowing, you are likely stuck, bleeding money. I think I would go to another shop, but tell them to diagnose only and then go from there. Knowing what is currently wrong may give you some leverage against the first guy if the diagnosis leads to pre-conditions for what parts he changed. After the diagnosis, then tell them what work was previously done to see if their diagnosis changes. They likely will spot previous work though. Good luck. |
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I recently discovered this "Aurora lovers dream site" and have spent the last few days reading and sometimes scanning all of the posts from day one!! You all have great info/experience and it is greatly appreciated in helping to keep our "little known treasures" on the road. Hope I can be a help whenever I can. By the way, mine is a 98 with 62,000 miles and everyone who drives in it asks what it is or comments on how well appointed and comfortable it is. Does anyone know where to get a small deck lid spoiler that would flush mount at the very edge just above the center red plastic panel? Thanks everyone for keeping this place going. p.s. I also own a 96 SHO...I guess I just love those orphans! |
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