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Sedans Oldsmobile Aurora Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair
4284 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 6:21 AM
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Replying to: mastecutor (May 08, 2009 11:16 am) |
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A few months ago my service engine light came on , I had a diagnostics done and needed a new catalytic converter, I had it replaced a few weeks later the light came on again, this time it was the 02 sensor. Last week the light came on again, I took it back to the shop and they had to replace the catalytic converter again (luckily it was still under warranty) I took the car home (drove 3 miles) and light is on. Back to shop again, they replaced the 02 sensor again. Just pulled it in the driveway and guess what, the lights back on. I hate to spend the money by going to a new shop but I'm at my wits end. Any suggestions?
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Replying to: cadillacraig (Apr 09, 2009 8:47 pm) Can you be more specific? Did you have some associated code? |
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Replying to: jimd604 (May 08, 2009 4:18 pm) How many O2 sensors do you have on your model? (Can be up to four.) |
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Replying to: cjl49 (Apr 08, 2009 2:15 pm) Is the Autozone a new or rebuilt? It could be that the labor is over-priced. By that I mean the hours listed in book which might show 10 hours but they actually only need 3. Shops use short cuts that are not approved too often. Example, I had an 86 Parisienne with Olds 307 and water pump failed. It had seven belts and much of the brackets/braces for other parts were either attached to the water pump housing or in the way. Upon returning the core it was discovered they did not give me the lifetime pump I had asked for which made me mad because it was near 8 hours to do the job properly. Mechanic in store overheard conversation and sad he could do it in 1 hour. I asked how with all those brackets and parts in the way. Answer, "Simple, just bend them out of the way!" That meant there were a lot of customers out there that had belts running crooked and wearing prematurely. I'm unsure of the procedure to change on this vehicle, but I think I read somewhere that it involves lowering the sub-frame. Tools for popping the tie rod ends are loanable at Autozone and if you are moderately mechanically inclined this is something you might consider doing yourself. Read back a few months and you will see a horror story a lady had when a shop did the job. My suspicion is they screwed up the job and then don't want to be responsible. Possibly overtorqued (bolts then broke or stripped) or left bolts loose resulting in near catrostrophic failure about a year later. |
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Apr 08, 2009 2:40 pm) Bearings on the idlers were going out and to get at them you pull the front mount and lower to have room. Major effort for me. Dealer was outrageous price, and the plastic pulley on the tensioner was only available as an assembly, double ouch! I went to Autozone and picked up aftermarket. They were not available at Pep Boys then. Parts only carried 30 days and a quick look told me why. The seals on the bearings were horrible. Basically they had no seal against the hub of the bearing. Just flat rubber up to it, no feathered edge, no garter spring. So anything such as dust or water would get centrifugally get impelled into the bearing. Pure crap! The ones from NAPA were far superior and just a few dollars more, but they also had a fault with one pulley. Its position on the bearing would not have allowed for changing the belt without disassembly, pulling the front mount again. I solved that by pressing the pulley farther onto the bearing allowing just enough room to slide new belt between it and brackets. The low ball can happen anywhere. You just have to make sure you are locked in with the price. And then there is always the uncertainty of whether local independents are using the top quality part. It usually is the same part you can buy at Autozone, PepBoys, Discount Auto, etc. And at twice the price! |
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Replying to: caddy_olds (Mar 14, 2009 10:37 am) All Data has the charts and procedure for what is going on but I haven't looked recently. Mine has a problem where it sometimes stays on and I get the clean key message when the vehicle interior is hot. I have not yet located the solution. It might be the wiring from ignition to the pass-key box or maybe the box itself. |
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Replying to: e_net_rider (May 09, 2009 8:11 am)
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Replying to: jimd604 (May 08, 2009 4:18 pm) |
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Replying to: auroragurl (May 06, 2009 6:47 am) |
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