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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

4284 messages,  Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 6:21 AM

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What is this discussion about? Oldsmobile Aurora, Auto Repair, Sedan

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#4129 of 4284 Re: 1997 Olds Aurora [cadillacraig] by e_net_rider Mar 02, 2009 (6:07 am)
Replying to: cadillacraig (Mar 01, 2009 8:37 pm) Assuming fuel is not a concern since you seem to seek raw power, you might be interested in that there are indications the very first ones off the line had the Cadillac 4.6 Aurora engine. They may have been for test purposes only. If you are willing to do that consideration, you will gain a lot of torque at lower RPM because the 4.0 seems to be a down-stroked twin. You will have to carefully research such things as weight and physical size to see if it is do-able. Any great weight changes would need to be considered with suspension. A heavier, longer through crankshaft would add weight, but partly offset with shorter connecting rods, I'm assuming. They might even use the same heads? But then I would not be surprised if the 4.6 had bigger valves or a different valve timing. Also cooling capabilities need a close look. If you have the one with oil cooler, you might consider a radiator w/o one and a way to mount the current oil cooler in front of radiator. Then learn the intracacies of wiring. There might not be any differences due to the similarity, other than computer programming. That is they may use the same computer, but then there may be differences to programming for non-powertrain items. You could overcome this by knowing someone who has the programming equipment and changing the parameters coded in. Also there is a final drive issue to look at, comparing to the Cadillac with the 4.6. The Aurora came in a autobahn version. As near as I could find, the only differences were the requirement for V rated tires and the final drive ratio was different, allowing more RPM per MPH. It seems the standard setup did not have enough torque or HP to push it 150+MPH. And of course the RPM limiter was either removed or raised to a much higher point. I'm not saying the final drive of the standard Aurora 4.0 is the same as the Cadillac with 4.6, or even the autobahn version. Something to consider and weigh according to your end desire. That is I can't even say if the fuel mix parameters were the same for the autobahn version or if the computer automatically took care of that and certainly something to consider if you start swapping final drive ratio.   Good Luck.
#4130 of 4284 Re: 1997 Olds Aurora [Mr_Shiftright] by e_net_rider Mar 02, 2009 (6:14 am)
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Mar 01, 2009 8:02 pm) "If your engine inhales water from a puddle, it'll seize up in a red hot minute. "   I'll go one further and say it will come apart. Water does not compress so you will likely have one of the following. Busted piston or broken rings. Broken connecting rod. Broken Crankshaft. Damaged cylinder wall. At least damaged bearings. Cold water sucked through intake might yield: Warped or cracked heads. Cracked valves. Cracked block. Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Mar 02, 2009 9:16 am)
#4131 of 4284 Re: 1997 Olds Aurora [cadillacraig] by pscheid Mar 02, 2009 (6:36 am)
Replying to: cadillacraig (Mar 01, 2009 5:38 pm) My driver's side door handle recently broke too (1998). My mechanic got one within a day or two, so they are readily available retail. Don't know if he got it through Cadillac or what. About $85 for the part, and they only come in one color, dark grey metallic. Has to be painted by you or the mechanic to match your car color before installation. Don't forget to lube all of the window, latch, and lock mechanisms while you have everything exposed.   Jack Replies to this message: e_net_rider (Mar 02, 2009 7:39 am)
#4132 of 4284 Re: 1997 Olds Aurora [pscheid] by e_net_rider Mar 02, 2009 (7:39 am)
Replying to: pscheid (Mar 02, 2009 6:36 am) Also you will find glued in place weather sheeting covering access holes. It is important to put it back in place as it becomes a source of noise flow into the interior. What the best glue is I can not say because it is difficult finding something that will stick to plastic sheeting. Butyl-rubber might work, but it is messy to work with. Any ideas?
#4133 of 4284 Re: 1997 Olds Aurora [e_net_rider] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Mar 02, 2009 (9:16 am)
Replying to: e_net_rider (Mar 02, 2009 6:14 am) Oh yeah, horrible things can happen. At best, it bends all the connecting rods so the pistons seize in the bores. But you're right, you can bust a rod right through the block, or even lift the cylinder head. It's a disaster. Routing a CAI too low is a very reckless thing to do.
#4134 of 4284 Re: 1997 Olds Aurora [cadillacraig] by blk97aurora Mar 02, 2009 (6:52 pm)
Replying to: cadillacraig (Mar 01, 2009 6:54 pm) Cad,   Strictly speaking, '95 Auroras are the only ones with a replaceable chip. Later ones could be reprogrammed, but I have yet to see success stories.   I have never seen an advertised "CAI" that I believe could work as claimed. Yes, they bypass the stock airbox, but I believe they pull in hotter air than stock and those heat baffles are a joke. Aurora underhood temps are quite high.   Check the archives back 5 years or so. Several of us experimented with airbox mods plus K&N filter. There are dyno results showing ~10 hp gain.   I wanted to have a true 'CAI' like the late '60s Olds 4-4-2 W30s (either through the grill ('66-'67) or under bumper ('68-'69). I have not been able to find the space. I thought maybe removing the left fog light would provide access -- but not without more sheetmetal mods than I was willing to make. That leaves hood scoop of some kind, but I never wanted to butcher my Aurora.   If you find a solution, let us know.   Les Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Mar 02, 2009 7:04 pm) pscheid (Mar 03, 2009 7:58 am)
#4135 of 4284 Re: 1997 Olds Aurora [blk97aurora] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Mar 02, 2009 (7:04 pm)
Replying to: blk97aurora (Mar 02, 2009 6:52 pm) I always thought that small twin ducts in the hood with a split plenum for the CAI might work. Kind of a lot of work though for dubious HP gain.   CAI favors larger displacement engines, but only at wide open throttle, since all gas engines have a throttle plate that's in the way anyway during most normal acceleration.   If the air isn't colder than in the stock filter system, it's a waste of time, I agree.
#4136 of 4284 by e_net_rider Mar 03, 2009 (3:58 am)
I would think that installing an efficient fan/blower on the intake might be more worthwhile. Something that would maintain more than one atmosphere of pressure, except maybe limited at the volume of what is needed for the engine at max RPM. Might be bad to strain it at the extreme. At other ranges, it would push more air into the engine. That might allow you to make use of every drop of octane your fuel has. That is the knock sensor would start retarding spark at the extreme. It might be necessary to learn that point and figure pressure accordingly since I'm not sure if the retarding is progressive according to how much knock, or if it is a pre-set number of degrees that would be wasteful. And with enough pressure, you'd likely overcome that point putting you back in a knock condition. Also it would be necessary to learn how the MAP sensor effects the system when the pressure is higher than normal. Otherwise, other sensors would try to maintain the mixture by adding more fuel because of the extra air. Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Mar 03, 2009 7:20 am)
#4137 of 4284 Re: [e_net_rider] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Mar 03, 2009 (7:20 am)
Replying to: e_net_rider (Mar 03, 2009 3:58 am) No a fan wouldn't work. You could hardly get enough pressure to matter, and the little HP you might generate would be cancelled easily by the energy needed to run the fan.   This is the "perpetual motion" idea. Similar to why HHO generators can't work. It costs more energy to make the teensy bit of hydrogen you might produce than you would gain back.
#4138 of 4284 Re: 1997 Olds Aurora [blk97aurora] by pscheid Mar 03, 2009 (7:58 am)
Replying to: blk97aurora (Mar 02, 2009 6:52 pm) This performance discussion has really covered a lot of ground....engine swap with a larger displacement Northstar 4.6, aftermarket air filters, chip swap, auxiliary blower fan, air intake through the hood, and gearing.   I never saw road tests showing acceleration time differentials between the lower (higher numeric) autobahn vs standard gearing but have to assume the lower autobahn gearing would produce tangible positive results.   Another thought would be on the exhaust end of things to help the breathing (backpressure) while requiring little if any modification. I've been thinking about that since my 98 Autobahn is still on the original exhaust system.

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