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Sedans Oldsmobile Aurora Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair
4283 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 10:33 AM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: blk97aurora (Feb 17, 2009 6:33 pm) |
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Replying to: mike1256 (Feb 23, 2009 11:43 pm) That gasket under the intake is easily replaced if you don't have to deal with fuel rail. Also you need a torque wrench that works with in-lbs. You are dealing with plastic manifold and improper torqueing can damage or crack it. The manifold is very high priced. I would regret letting a mechanic do it, manifold cracks later, and he says it is not his fault. Also at the front end of motor is a valve in the manifold. It is actually a flapper door for back-fire. There is a seal under the flapper, but I think you have to change the whole valve instead of replacing just that seal. It is not real expensive, but it might be difficult to get out. The whole valve assembly is released by about a 1/4 turn, but might be difficult to extract because of build up inside the manifold. And mine had a lot. I used a couple of cans of oven cleaner to eat the gunk and flushed with water. Brake clean may also be useful, but it can be rough on rubber such as the O-ring sealing the flapper valve assembly and the seal under the flapper, so try to remove it before using solvent. You did not link this message to other posts so I am not sure if you are the guy who mentioned having a bunch of codes. And the fact that it only starts acting up when the car is warm, closed loop, is a hint as to the trouble. But, interpreting it can be difficult, and one of the first steps is ensuring there are no leaks. Warming of the engine might cause a leak and it seems unlikely that it would be exactly at the temp of change -over to closed loop.
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Feb 24, 2009 5:52 am) |
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| my car has changed from miles to km how do i change it back | |
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Has anyone tried raising the front end of their Aurora by fabricating spacers and placing them at the top of the struts? Or, has anyone raised their front end by any means? Ken |
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Replying to: KarenS (Aug 31, 2001 7:39 am) |
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I need to know how to change an alternator on a 1995 aurora
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Replying to: smartass1 (Feb 28, 2009 9:31 pm) 1. Rear seat cushion. 2. Negative battery cable. 3. Upper radiator shroud. 4. Right and left cooling fans. 5. Accessory drive belt from P/S pulley then generator. 6. Top alternator bolts, disconnect cable and regulator connector. 7. Ground strap and P/S line bracket to gain access. 8. Lower generator bolts (raise vehicle). 9. Lower radiator hose (drain radiator). 10. Air inlet duct. 11. Generator through top left side of engine compartment. INSTALL OR CONNECT 1. Generator through top left side of engine compartment. 2. Air inlet duct. 3. Lower radiator hose. 4. Lower generator bolts. 5. Ground strap and P/S line bracket. 6. Generator Mounting Bolts. Tighten o Front Studs to 38 N.m (28 lb. ft.) . o Rear Bolts to 47 N.m (35 lb. ft.) . 7. Generator Output Terminal Nut. Tighten o Nut to 20 N.m (15 lb. ft.) . 8. Voltage regulator connection. 9. Accessory drive belt. 10. Right and left cooling fans. 11. Upper radiator shroud. 12. Negative battery cable. 13. Rear seat cushion. 14. Fill cooling system. |
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I just bought this car and the drivers outside door handle doesnt work. I realize that the door panel needs to be removed and I would like to know exactly how to do this.
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Replying to: cadillacraig (Mar 01, 2009 2:27 pm) 1. Bezel finish cover from door handle bezel by unsnapping upper tab with thin-bladed tool. 2. Door handle bezel by removing one screw, unsnapping bezel and lifting it off and over door handle. 3. Two screws from lower door under map pocket. 4. Trim panel by lifting up on trim panel to disengage hooks on backside of panel. 5. Electrical connectors. INSTALL OR CONNECT 1. Electrical connectors. 2. Trim panel by engaging hooks on backside of panel into door inner panel. 3. Two screws under map pocket. 4. Door handle bezel by snapping into position and one screw. 5. Bezel finish cover. |
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