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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

4283 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 10:33 AM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: tylutki (Feb 17, 2009 5:23 pm) Les
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Replying to: gsapp (Jun 16, 2007 7:05 pm) |
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Replying to: tylutki (Feb 17, 2009 5:23 pm) |
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Feb 03, 2009 2:00 am) |
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car is running rough only at operating temp so changed the plugs and wires but still rough....in reading through this forum i am getting all sorts of advice about egr valves, o2sensors, and fuel relays could be causing the problem. I had a mechanic look at it and he says its a leaking seal at the back of the intake manifold??? The cars surges at idle and park and at 50kpm it feels like its accellerating and then decellerating but goes away past that. I also hear a strange noise like air whenever I step on the gas pedal... Has anyone else had these problems thanks MIke
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Replying to: blk97aurora (Feb 17, 2009 6:33 pm) |
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Replying to: mike1256 (Feb 23, 2009 11:43 pm) That gasket under the intake is easily replaced if you don't have to deal with fuel rail. Also you need a torque wrench that works with in-lbs. You are dealing with plastic manifold and improper torqueing can damage or crack it. The manifold is very high priced. I would regret letting a mechanic do it, manifold cracks later, and he says it is not his fault. Also at the front end of motor is a valve in the manifold. It is actually a flapper door for back-fire. There is a seal under the flapper, but I think you have to change the whole valve instead of replacing just that seal. It is not real expensive, but it might be difficult to get out. The whole valve assembly is released by about a 1/4 turn, but might be difficult to extract because of build up inside the manifold. And mine had a lot. I used a couple of cans of oven cleaner to eat the gunk and flushed with water. Brake clean may also be useful, but it can be rough on rubber such as the O-ring sealing the flapper valve assembly and the seal under the flapper, so try to remove it before using solvent. You did not link this message to other posts so I am not sure if you are the guy who mentioned having a bunch of codes. And the fact that it only starts acting up when the car is warm, closed loop, is a hint as to the trouble. But, interpreting it can be difficult, and one of the first steps is ensuring there are no leaks. Warming of the engine might cause a leak and it seems unlikely that it would be exactly at the temp of change -over to closed loop.
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Feb 24, 2009 5:52 am) |
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| my car has changed from miles to km how do i change it back | |
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Has anyone tried raising the front end of their Aurora by fabricating spacers and placing them at the top of the struts? Or, has anyone raised their front end by any means? Ken |
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