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Sedans Oldsmobile Aurora Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair
4283 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 10:33 AM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
TO those who have tackled this job of replacing a headlight bulb (passenger side). I first looked at my manual then here. Between the two sources it sounded like a project that might be troublesome. I must say that getting to the bulbs was quite the task. Unless you have child size hands. I couldn't get the assembly to move forward until I removed 4 or was it 6 bolts. Either way it was a pain!!!! Is there any one out there that wants to jump in on this. Was I missing something? I find it hard to believe that this task really is that difficult. I have done this on all my previous vehicles in a matter of minutes. Whats the deal olds?
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| ok My 2001 aurora headlights donot work i cheacked the fuses and even changed them all that works is the high beams what could be wrong? | |
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Replying to: tylutki (Feb 17, 2009 5:23 pm) |
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Replying to: tylutki (Feb 17, 2009 5:23 pm) Les
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Replying to: gsapp (Jun 16, 2007 7:05 pm) |
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Replying to: tylutki (Feb 17, 2009 5:23 pm) |
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Feb 03, 2009 2:00 am) |
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car is running rough only at operating temp so changed the plugs and wires but still rough....in reading through this forum i am getting all sorts of advice about egr valves, o2sensors, and fuel relays could be causing the problem. I had a mechanic look at it and he says its a leaking seal at the back of the intake manifold??? The cars surges at idle and park and at 50kpm it feels like its accellerating and then decellerating but goes away past that. I also hear a strange noise like air whenever I step on the gas pedal... Has anyone else had these problems thanks MIke
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Replying to: blk97aurora (Feb 17, 2009 6:33 pm) |
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Replying to: mike1256 (Feb 23, 2009 11:43 pm) That gasket under the intake is easily replaced if you don't have to deal with fuel rail. Also you need a torque wrench that works with in-lbs. You are dealing with plastic manifold and improper torqueing can damage or crack it. The manifold is very high priced. I would regret letting a mechanic do it, manifold cracks later, and he says it is not his fault. Also at the front end of motor is a valve in the manifold. It is actually a flapper door for back-fire. There is a seal under the flapper, but I think you have to change the whole valve instead of replacing just that seal. It is not real expensive, but it might be difficult to get out. The whole valve assembly is released by about a 1/4 turn, but might be difficult to extract because of build up inside the manifold. And mine had a lot. I used a couple of cans of oven cleaner to eat the gunk and flushed with water. Brake clean may also be useful, but it can be rough on rubber such as the O-ring sealing the flapper valve assembly and the seal under the flapper, so try to remove it before using solvent. You did not link this message to other posts so I am not sure if you are the guy who mentioned having a bunch of codes. And the fact that it only starts acting up when the car is warm, closed loop, is a hint as to the trouble. But, interpreting it can be difficult, and one of the first steps is ensuring there are no leaks. Warming of the engine might cause a leak and it seems unlikely that it would be exactly at the temp of change -over to closed loop.
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