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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

4283 messages,  Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 10:33 AM

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What is this discussion about? Oldsmobile Aurora, Auto Repair, Sedan

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#4097 of 4283 Re: Power Steering Issues [e_net_rider] by d_stenulson Jan 25, 2009 (1:32 pm)
Replying to: e_net_rider (Jan 22, 2009 3:28 am) well I looked... and i reallized that the wheels do turn just to the right... but when i go to turn it back to the left i just feel a click and they don't want to move back. He said it was bolts that broke between the tires and steering wheel... and when that occurred it messerd up the rack b/c it wasn't stable Replies to this message: e_net_rider (Feb 03, 2009 2:00 am) d_stenulson (Feb 23, 2009 8:40 pm)
#4098 of 4283 head bolt procedure. by BruceStrong Jan 30, 2009 (5:57 pm)
Does anybody know the procedure for tightening and torquing down the head bolts ? What parts have to be removed first ? Are the heads hard to reach ? How many ft/lb of torque to each bolt ? What pattern should you use to torque them down ?
#4099 of 4283 '98 Aurora Replacing spark plugs and wires by txshadow12 Jan 31, 2009 (5:28 am)
Q-1 Is replacing the plugs and wires a project that an individual with average mechanical skills accomplish on his own? Once I start the task, are all plugs accessible or must one take off/remove components to get at the plugs. Q-2 Any special tools needed? Thanks. Skeeter in Texas Replies to this message: blk97aurora (Jan 31, 2009 9:15 am)
#4100 of 4283 Re: '98 Aurora Replacing spark plugs and wires [txshadow12] by blk97aurora Jan 31, 2009 (9:15 am)
Replying to: txshadow12 (Jan 31, 2009 5:28 am) Skeeter,   1 - The front bank of plugs is a piece of cake. The rear bank is an entirely different story. I found replacement much easier by removing the ignition module (flat plate to which the four coils mount). The engine cover is easy to remove. Patience is key. It will take a while for you to figure out how to get to the rear plugs. Expect the boots to be difficult to pull off.   2 - gapping tool, spark plug socket, ratchet with extensions, universal joint may help, torque wrench   Use only ACDelco replacement parts.   Les
#4101 of 4283 engine miss by spiders1 Jan 31, 2009 (10:31 pm)
Have a 97 120,000 miles. She just started to miss real bad one day. Had tune up, got better, had to replace injector and a coil. Runs like a rapped ape again. This is first money had to feed it in year I've had it. Great car in weather, live in Chicago area.Drive 130 miles for work each day.
#4102 of 4283 Re: dashboard gages [donnapaca] by 1oldude Feb 02, 2009 (10:23 am)
Replying to: donnapaca (Sep 03, 2008 11:33 pm) Probably too late to be a help. Just saw this on my 1st visit. The slamming into fwd or reverse may be from an erroneous signal from the speed sensor in the tranny causing the computer to hunt. Before spending big labor bucks to replace the 40 buck sensor by dropping the tranny have a good honest mechanic check the wiring for shorts and bad connections. Easing the shift lever at idle speed sometimes helps reduce the slam. certainly don't shift before the speed is at idle. I drove around with an erratic engine warning light for thousands of miles before we could even find a speed signal code. GM wanted over $2000 to replace the sensor and couldn't guarantee it was the problem. If the light goes on intermittently, it may be a similar problem. Does it happen when the engine is cold or only when at temp? When does the warning light go on /go off? Replies to this message: donnapaca (Feb 03, 2009 1:41 am)
#4103 of 4283 Re: dashboard gages [1oldude] by donnapaca Feb 03, 2009 (1:41 am)
Replying to: 1oldude (Feb 02, 2009 10:23 am) I found that the slamming into forward or reverse was being caused by a faulty main computer. The dealership was former olds dealer and the tech was experienced with the aurora. He replaced the main computer with 3 or 4 factory rebuilds which gave erroneous codes saying bad transmission. The tech put the old one back in and got different code reading. I did not have to pay for all the extra work since it was a GM dealer using GM parts. They spend considerable time consulting with Aurora factory engineers who finally sent new (not rebuilt) computer. I have posted complete details including codes previously to this site. I don't have file handy now, but if you need I can get it out of storage. I researched the issue a lot and found a lot of people were having the transmissions rebuilt because transmission shops like ammco (sp?) and even GM dealers were advising transmission was bad, when it was only computer-and the codes the computers give are not always correct. Some cases I have read spent over $5,000 for the transmission rebuild and it did not fix the problem. The transmission shops would tell them to read the fine print and they are not responsible if the problem is computer related, even if they made a misdiagnose.
#4104 of 4283 Re: Power Steering Issues [d_stenulson] by e_net_rider Feb 03, 2009 (2:00 am)
Replying to: d_stenulson (Jan 25, 2009 1:32 pm) Knowing which bolts broke will let you know if it was the previous mechanic's fault. From what I remember of the way the unit is connected, I'd guess it was the bolts holding the rack in place. Did they break or did they back out? Either way, I'd bet the bolts were not properly torqued. Replies to this message: d_stenulson (Feb 23, 2009 8:40 pm)
#4105 of 4283 Temp gage/ heater problem by 1oldude Feb 15, 2009 (6:03 pm)
Outside air temp (OAT) reads 125F and heater hot air available only at 90F setting. Without manuals my guess is that bad OAT gage is causing a/c control to limit hot air mix and not provide desired cabin temp. Does anyone agree? How do I confirm my guess and fix the problem?
#4106 of 4283 Headlight bulb Replacement by coreyg1 Feb 16, 2009 (4:52 am)
TO those who have tackled this job of replacing a headlight bulb (passenger side). I first looked at my manual then here. Between the two sources it sounded like a project that might be troublesome. I must say that getting to the bulbs was quite the task. Unless you have child size hands. I couldn't get the assembly to move forward until I removed 4 or was it 6 bolts. Either way it was a pain!!!! Is there any one out there that wants to jump in on this. Was I missing something? I find it hard to believe that this task really is that difficult. I have done this on all my previous vehicles in a matter of minutes. Whats the deal olds? Replies to this message: spiders1 (Apr 04, 2009 10:07 pm)

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