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Sedans Oldsmobile Aurora Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair
4283 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 10:33 AM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: d_stenulson (Jan 20, 2009 3:31 pm) The Rack and Pinion is located against the firewall horizontally. If something to the output end of the rack broke, you'd have movement on one of the tires. So it would have to be internal or the shaft from the steering wheel. I think I read that the subframe needs to be lowered to change the rack. That would make it labor intensive. But those labor books are very generous with time usually. Considering that shop refused to do it a second time makes me suspicious that the problem is related to something they did. Because of the danger evoked that such a failure would occur the part has to pass a high safety standard and I've never heard of such a failure to a rack. Maybe they used some cheaper than dirt part. If you can find the manufacturer of the part you can probably talk them out of a free one considering the age. Labor is a separate issue and listed in a manual such as Chiltons Labor book. Back to the input. I'd check to make sure the steering shaft is turning with the steering wheel and is connected at the rack. The connection is accessible fron inside and covered with a rubber boot assembly. You might have to roll the carpet back a little and there are several small bolts holding it in place. The shaft connection is splined and there will be a single bolt, sideways, pinching the coupling tight to the racks input shaft. If something is broken between the steering wheel and that point, you have a different breed of problem, nothing to do with the rack.
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Jan 22, 2009 2:59 am) I have this fuse that continues to blow now, I just discovered it Monday. It is the ERLS (Brake-Transaxle Shift Interlock, Heated Oxygen Sensor, Linear EGR). I went through all the fuses on a whim, found this one blown replaced it with a new 15A and as soon as I started it, the fuse blew again. Your input on wiring has me curious if they damaged wires... Of course they supplied me with a 6 month or 6000 mile warranty and I am beyond that. Is it common for a speed sensor to fail that quickly? I just can't see that being logical. Thank you for your input... I don't know what I would do without you all here in the forum!
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Replying to: ndeysayau95 (Jan 22, 2009 7:28 am) If so, you got ripped. The wiring problem may have existed prior to work if that is case, or it might have been just a dead computer, far less than what you paid. But this does not make a lot of sense. Did the vehicle actually have torque converter lock after they worked on it? You need to clarify some of these points and I would start by writing down what you can remember of order of events as soon as possible. Then get the vehicle to someone that will inspect the wiring visibly for a crush problem. Maybe take some pictures of it. I ran into a situation that had me ready to kill someone, afterall they almost killed me and my wife. I bought a used vehicle and it had a braking problem that was unknown to us. She had two incidents, one of which had her skid off road, over curb and barely missed a power pole, coming into her side. I was on a three lane bridge, center lane controlled by lights. As I approached the top, here comes someone in the middle lane. When I hit the brakes the car also skid sideways on me, again putting the driver side to the impending danger. I was back at the dealer and mighty irate. The claimed they fixed the problem, but I later learned they had not. I talked to a lawyer, I wanted to sue them till their doors slammed shut. What the lawyer told me is that basically, "no harm, no foul". If we had gotten killed then our kids could have sued them. So there is a large loop hole allowing shoddy workmanship. That is you have to catch them and prove damage. I got rid of the car because no one could find the problem, but several months later I learned the problem because of a picture in Chilton manual. The picture showed the tool in place on the brake diverter valve for bleeding brakes. And having learned that the previous owner had crunched a rear quarter panel, it was very certain that the tool got left in place at the Ford plant. So why the blog? It just occurred to me that you may have had a specific warranty on the transmission rebuild, but is there any place in the contract that says they are not responsible for damage they cause. I'd bet not, afterall, who would take their vehicle to someone that says that. They'd be saying they could damage all sorts of stuff and you'd have to pay to get it fixed. So if it is a damaged wire bundle that had to be gotten at while work was being performed, I'd say you have a case. Maybe not big enough to get an attorney to look at, not enough money. But you could handle through small claims. BTW, that wire bundle segment I mentioned previously, it also goes to EGR and O2 on the left bank (front side of vehicle). Depending upon year, you could have as many as four O2 sensors. Left bank, right bank, combined pre catalytic, and aft catalytic. The code should tell you which one.
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Jan 23, 2009 11:33 am) Thanks again for all your info! |
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Jan 22, 2009 3:28 am)
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| Does anybody know the procedure for tightening and torquing down the head bolts ? What parts have to be removed first ? Are the heads hard to reach ? How many ft/lb of torque to each bolt ? What pattern should you use to torque them down ? | |
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Q-1 Is replacing the plugs and wires a project that an individual with average mechanical skills accomplish on his own? Once I start the task, are all plugs accessible or must one take off/remove components to get at the plugs. Q-2 Any special tools needed? Thanks. Skeeter in Texas
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Replying to: txshadow12 (Jan 31, 2009 5:28 am) 1 - The front bank of plugs is a piece of cake. The rear bank is an entirely different story. I found replacement much easier by removing the ignition module (flat plate to which the four coils mount). The engine cover is easy to remove. Patience is key. It will take a while for you to figure out how to get to the rear plugs. Expect the boots to be difficult to pull off. 2 - gapping tool, spark plug socket, ratchet with extensions, universal joint may help, torque wrench Use only ACDelco replacement parts. Les |
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Have a 97 120,000 miles. She just started to miss real bad one day. Had tune up, got better, had to replace injector and a coil. Runs like a rapped ape again. This is first money had to feed it in year I've had it. Great car in weather, live in Chicago area.Drive 130 miles for work each day. |
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Replying to: donnapaca (Sep 03, 2008 11:33 pm)
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