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Sedans Oldsmobile Aurora Oldsmobile Aurora: Maintenance & Repair
4263 messages, Last post on Nov 04, 2009 at 5:29 AM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: mastecutor (Jan 02, 2009 9:44 am) 1 Torque Converter $265 1 EDC Solenoid $97 1 filter $45 1 filter left $15 1 filter rt $21 1 input speed sensor $45 1 solenoid PWM $65 fluid supplement (block) $20 12 quarts ATF Fluid $42 Here are the codes that were listed as well... 90- v cc brake switch input prob. 95- engine stalled 95- shift ratio "A" problem 109 - Internal ECM problem 27- Throttle switch or circuit open 39- torque converter clutch malfunction 56 - input speed circuit problem 52 - defective ecm 70 - intermittent throttle position. All these things were listed and according to the repair order fixed. The total out of pocket expense was $1697. How common or rare is it to have issues with the same parts? Im leaning toward the speed sensor because now she acts as though she wants to shift, but still doesn't. Also forgot to mention previously that I use to get a loud thump when put in reverse but since I drained fluid and replaced it has disappeared. Would you happen to know how difficult it is to change the speed sensor? I went and purchased another, hoping to be able to resolve it this way and avoid the costly labor at the shop. I really need a manual on this car and no one seems to have one other than the dealer. Your help is greatly appreciated! It actually keeps me from giving up on her... she is expensive, but when she is up and running wow the comfort & reliabilty is well worth the expense.
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I know absolutely nothing about cars... lol... i just bought my 1997 aurora from a friend... I had been envying her for a while... as a 17 year old would... i bought it from her because she offered it to me for $850... its fully loaded...cd changer...power windows/locks/sun/moonroof/...heated seats...everything... well i bought it from her knowing that the power steering unit was out... having known it went out completely once before... i turn the steering wheel, and it turns but the tires don't turn with it... i took it to the place who fixed it for her the first time and he said that he didn't want to fix it again because he didn't know what caused it to happen a second time... then i called another place and they said that they didn't want to even look at it... because its an AURORA... I thought to myself... YOU HAVE TO BE KIDDING ME... I remember the guy saying at the place who fixed it the first time... its the rack and pinion... and I personally have no idea what that means... can anyone help me so i can better know what I am talking about... I know this was a long story just to get to a point that wasn't that important to the rest of the story... but PLEASE HELP ME???
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Replying to: d_stenulson (Jan 14, 2009 2:15 am) I suggest you find a non-dealer shop that works on Cadillacs. If they work on Caddies they will work on the Aurora. You may be better off selling the car and picking yourself up a less complicated more reliable car. This is too complicated and way too expensive your your young pocket book. Just being honest and trying to cut your losses. If you can dodge a ball you can dodge a wrench. You just got hit by a wrench and a wench.
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Replying to: d_stenulson (Jan 14, 2009 2:15 am) |
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Replying to: mastecutor (Jan 14, 2009 8:01 am) |
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Replying to: aurand210 (May 15, 2008 12:42 pm) 
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I recently had the message appear "Gas Cap Off" message appear. I double checked the gas cap and it clicked for me I made sure it was on tight cleaned out dirt then the engine light came on. I read that the engine light will come on if the DIC shows "Gas Cap Off". I also read to replace the gas cap because the rubber lining in the gas cap get old and needs to be replaced. Sure enough all was true. I replaced the Gas cap with a new at $9.00 at NAPA Auto Store and they also let me borrow a machine for free that you hook up to the car and gives you the codes for the "check engine" light. Sure enough the code read some "emissions" and some other code I reset the codes and I was good to go, no more "check engine light" and no more DIC code..........I did it all by myself at a cost of $9.00 YAY!!
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Replying to: d_stenulson (Jan 14, 2009 8:43 pm) good luck,
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Replying to: aurand210 (Jan 16, 2009 7:13 am) The battery's in these cars are usually good for the full life, 6-7years. Having the battery in the back seat away from the thermal variations of the engine increase the battery life by two fold. Problem is these suckers run 150-200 bucks depending on your local dealers price. It's AC DElphi (Delco) or nothing. RT
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Replying to: aurand210 (Jan 16, 2009 7:22 am) |
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