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Oldsmobile Aurora: Maintenance & Repair

4263 messages, Last post on Nov 04, 2009 at 5:29 AM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: ndeysayau95 (Dec 31, 2008 9:16 am) Replacement fluid should be GM grade transmission fluid , nothing more and nothing less. When you drain from the pan your only replacing 6-7 quarts of the fluid. You do not actually change out all of the tranney fluid when changing from the pan. Verify your gasget at the pan to see that it is not cracked. you said you have it dripping around the pan. This is not a good sign. You could have been running the car with low transmission fluid levels. A new GM gasget for this car is 50-75$ unless you go with the cheap cork aftermarket gasget which I only reccommend if you plan on keeping the car for a couple years. Draining and checking the tranney fluid is your cheapest route to take. If you go the alternate route of replacing the tranney (mind you if this is the problem) your cost will go up considerably. Dallas Tx.
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Replying to: jeff8789 (Oct 16, 2008 4:45 pm) in some instances those contacters become shorted and your lights will turn on even after the iginition has been shut off. Have seen many peoples batterys drained becasue of this same issue. |
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Replying to: mastecutor (Jan 02, 2009 9:56 am)
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Jan 02, 2009 7:48 am) As for the swap, Im thinking of just buying the other Aurora he wants $450 for it now. The guy says it needs a new engine, it has a bad rod knock. It only has 118k on it, and I believe it's well worth more than $450. I will keep you posted on my tranny issue... Hope it's something simple.Thanks again for all your help! |
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Replying to: ndeysayau95 (Jan 02, 2009 12:34 pm) Again, I would drain and verify that there are not shavings or metalics in your oil or attached to the magnetic strip just inside the pan. your best hope is that you had air pockets in the modulator Good luck. |
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Replying to: mastecutor (Jan 05, 2009 10:27 am)
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Replying to: ndeysayau95 (Jan 05, 2009 1:59 pm) Along witht he many headaches pointed up concerning someone swapping the tranny for you, there are a couple of points about pulling a tranny from junk. If the vehicle was wrecked the impact can damage parts inside. There is a lot of weight suspended on the main shaft and it has only a bearing at each end. Also there are bearings between those heavy components, clutch packs, planetary gears, etc. and the main shaft. So, in addition to the possibilities of the main shaft being bent just enough to through it out of balance, there is the possibility of these soft material bearings being dimpled by the impact. They actually are more of a bushing made of material like the connecting rod bearings and depend mostly on the thin layer of oil to stop damage. Ford had a bulletin concerning damage because people failed to use the parking brake. Any incline would put the torque of the wheels into any of the final drive components, that is all solid connections between the wheel and the parking pawl in the transmission. The result was that every last drop of lubricant was being forced from points of bearings resulting in dry starts. Dry starts are very bad and the beginning of wear points that will deteriorate faster than other areas. The bulletin specifically addressed transmissions, but with a little thought you will see this also affects the CV joints on the drive shafts. I'd say it is very important to always use the parking brake. Other than a few of us that found the bulletin on the net, I'm unaware of this info being passed to customers.
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Jan 06, 2009 7:22 am) Monique |
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Jan 06, 2009 7:22 am) |
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Replying to: mastecutor (Jan 02, 2009 9:44 am) 1 Torque Converter $265 1 EDC Solenoid $97 1 filter $45 1 filter left $15 1 filter rt $21 1 input speed sensor $45 1 solenoid PWM $65 fluid supplement (block) $20 12 quarts ATF Fluid $42 Here are the codes that were listed as well... 90- v cc brake switch input prob. 95- engine stalled 95- shift ratio "A" problem 109 - Internal ECM problem 27- Throttle switch or circuit open 39- torque converter clutch malfunction 56 - input speed circuit problem 52 - defective ecm 70 - intermittent throttle position. All these things were listed and according to the repair order fixed. The total out of pocket expense was $1697. How common or rare is it to have issues with the same parts? Im leaning toward the speed sensor because now she acts as though she wants to shift, but still doesn't. Also forgot to mention previously that I use to get a loud thump when put in reverse but since I drained fluid and replaced it has disappeared. Would you happen to know how difficult it is to change the speed sensor? I went and purchased another, hoping to be able to resolve it this way and avoid the costly labor at the shop. I really need a manual on this car and no one seems to have one other than the dealer. Your help is greatly appreciated! It actually keeps me from giving up on her... she is expensive, but when she is up and running wow the comfort & reliabilty is well worth the expense.
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