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Sedans Oldsmobile Aurora Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair
4283 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 10:33 AM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: bgadams (Aug 21, 2008 8:34 am) Caution on aftermarket, I used one a number of years ago and it just did not spin as fast as the OEM, so less cooling when needed. |
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Replying to: bdblkab96 (Aug 19, 2008 7:21 pm) FYI, I am an old hot rod builder/drag racer. When building a high performance engine, one normally changes or modifies the oil pump so that it puts out greater pressure and volume than stock...this is critical to engine life. Performance application demand greater pressure and volume. The gaskets and seals on an engine are not located in areas where the oil pressure would affect them...it is not easy to give a full explanation here, but in very basic terms the oil pump circulates lubricant under highest pressure through the oil galleries in the engine block directing this flow to the crankshaft bearings with a residual amount going to the camshafts and valve train...these are the areas that are pressure lubed....the areas that are guided by bearing elements. the balance of the engine internals are lubed simply by splash or drip without pressure involvment.....it is these areas that are contained by the gaskets and seals...for example the engine pan, upper valve train covers, crankshaft ends,etc. So, in very basic terms there are no gaskets or seals to "blow" as a result of elevated oil pressure.....because there is no elevation of oil pressure in these areas where gaskets and seals are located...so this is an unfounded fear and you should no fear. hope this helps...dusty
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Replying to: dustyrustee (Aug 22, 2008 4:23 pm) But it would seem unlikely that the head gasket would fail in such a way as to create a major leak, internal, without failure of coolant or combustion chamber seal. But then the engineer might have put that galley too close to an edge of the gasket where it might be more susceptible to leak because of the greater changes with aluminum. Yet, we are talking about a low pressure system to start with. But there is one thing that has intrigued me because the pressures go so high when cold. Sort of like a combination of high and low pressure systems. Works on high pressure until the engine is heated and tolerances have settled to operating specification. Weird huh? Again, I'd rely on actual pressures checked with guage, and I know there is a specification chart that shows both cold and warm temps for checking. I think it was at All-Data. |
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Dont overlook the fact that engine oils thin considerably as well when engine reaches operating temp, hence all engines have noticeable pressure drop from cold to hot... as well oil porting thru head gaskets to lube cams presents no concern about gasket failure there as the oil is constantly flowing to cam bearings and there is very little backpressure at head to block juncture...
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Replying to: dustyrustee (Aug 24, 2008 11:11 pm) |
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| Hello I have a 1995 Oldsmobile Aruora That i just bought in April, Now the sterring wheel is loose it moves up and down and you can feel some play in it while driving! So i was wondering if anyone has ever heard of such a thing like this? At first it didn't pass state inspection because of the play the wheel had in it,,So the place i bought it from somehow got a sticker on it..Than he told me it was suspoes to be that way incase i got in an accident so i wouldn't be trapped in my car..I feel that is bull s*** because why would the state not have known about that? Anyways please some help here before i go back to where i bought it from and give them hell..I drive with 2 little children in the car with me..So i don't want to put them nor myself at risk for an accident..Thanks | |
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Replying to: boston08 (Aug 30, 2008 4:52 am) Hope someone responds that can tell us exactly where this may be loose and how to tighten it. paul |
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| Thank you Paul for your reply =) | |
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95 aurora Check engine light with hard shift from park to reverse and hard shift neutral to drive-in the past this has generally been bad pcm. Took to dealer that I have had success in fixing problems in the past. They hooked up code reader and the check engine light was not on, and computer did not store trouble codes. It shifted fine when they tested it, however the gages would not work-84,000 miles and never had this problem. Dealer said they only hooked up code reader, did not do anything else-any ideas? I have read ignition switch issue-I will try other key. Any other suggestions? I would appreciate any responses.
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Replying to: blk97aurora (Aug 19, 2008 5:46 pm) Summer idle cold idle  ~ 700 rpm: 59 psi Summer hot idle ~ 700 rpm: 8-9 psi Summer cruising hot ~ 1950 rpm & 60 mph: 28-34 psi Winter cold idle ~ 1000 rpm: ? Winter hot idle ~ 700 rpm: 12-14 psi Winter cruising after cold start 1950 rpm: 73 psi Winter cruising hot ~ 1950 rpm & 60 mph: 36-38 psi Original sender, pump, and gauge. I'd be interested if everyone elses' experience is similar. Jack Jack
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