Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Sedans Oldsmobile Aurora Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair
4284 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 6:21 AM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
|
|
|---|---|
|
have no fear of your oil pressure readings....you should be very pleased they are that high...especially with only 30 weight oil, which is not a particularly heavy or high viscosity oil..tells me that all your rod and crank bearings are in great shape...ditto for your oil pump internals.. no fear of 'blowing gaskets', etc...none at all...engine gaskets dont factor into the equation at all....
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: bdblkab96 (Aug 19, 2008 5:03 pm) What is the logic behind pulling the oil pan? Are the lifters clicking? My '97 shows 70+ psi at idle when cold and running 10w-30 Mobil 1, so 85+ does not surprise me with straight 30 weight. I do not remember how the pressure sender triggers the low-pressure alarm. Does anyone know if shorted wiring could do it? Les |
|
|
Replying to: blk97aurora (Mar 26, 2007 3:50 pm) I had several. And a blown dash board lighting fuse under the rear seat. I'm guessing you have read the blogs about how to fix those wires ? If not, let me know and I will advise asap. (now that I remember my log on.) I just recently had to replace my driver door window motor. I thought at first I missed a wire but when using the window switch, I could hear that it was clicking which told me it was getting power to the switch. But of course I allocated the time to take the door apart to make sure anyway. Now I am in the infamous low oil pressure mode again. This time it looks like it is more than just a change out of the oil pressure sensor. There are some informative discussions on that too. 
|
|
|
Replying to: blk97aurora (Aug 19, 2008 5:46 pm) The alarm sounds when the sensor/sender drops below 5 psi typically Mine rang out just before zero. This always occurred when at hot idle. Apparently there is a way to hook up this external actual pressure indicator while the car is running. As I stated, sort of, I have no lifter clicking at all and believe me I know very well the sound of lifter clicking from my younger days. Spent a few hours changing out Hydraulics in my International PU too. (you know back in the days we could rebuild engines ourselves) It was about a year and a half ago that I had the sensor/sender replaced. We are at the mercy of the mechanics knowledge. That in itself can skew all of our related issues. The mechanic said that I was getting a false reading from that sensor/sender. Replaced it and all remained well until now. By this new replacement not doing the trick tells me something else somewhere else is wrong. As stated within this forum, there are several other factors that can affect oil pressure levels. One being bearings located inside the oil pan. But what I want to know is.... do you really need to pull the tanny to get the oil pan out ? Maybe I will take a good look this weekend myself. According to this forum, the alarm is triggerd by several possible factors. Knowing the "cheap wiring" in the vehicle, that may also be a contributor. But not necessarily. I prefer to use 10w 30 M1 myself. maybe that too ? .
|
|
|
Replying to: dustyrustee (Aug 19, 2008 5:37 pm) I will be taking her for a seven hour cruise soon. And yes, I was very pleased to hear of those pressure readings. I also liked the expression on the mechanics face when he saw them. I just can't like blowing gaskets. No matter what kind they are. Thanks
|
|
|
Replying to: bdblkab96 (Aug 19, 2008 6:10 pm) Today with controls set on low temp and high fan it came on after 10 minutes of driving and blew for 10 or 15 more before failing again. I did make a hard right turn just before it started up, and have had that happen a few times past. I hesitate to pay the dealer to train his tech at my expence. When I had it there last, the tech said he checked the relays but could find nothing wrong. Is it possible that I have a cracked relay that is making intermittent contact. Please help me if you can. Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: bdblkab96 (Aug 19, 2008 6:39 pm) If pressure reads good at sender location, then you are down to the sender itself, wiring, and computer. I'd say eliminate wiring as it is cheapest and a new sender won't work any better unless slight tolerances allow it to send a marginally better signal. I don't know for sure, but think this sender is of the older style with varying resistance, not like some of the newer where a modulated signal is created. So locate the sender, disconnect wiring and check it at connector. Might want to disconnect battery to be safe, especially with next steps. Remove the main connector at the firewall that everything passes through and check for corrosion or other obvious defects. (Reconnecting might be enough to force better contact, but maybe consider some anticorrosive sprayed into the contacts. Silicone grease is also an excellent protective that does not conduct.) Go to the computer and do the same thing with connectors there. Also locate the wire feeding computer and measure resistance from sender to it which should be near zero ohms, that is less than one ohm I would hope. Don't forget to check the ground circuit and also check the signal wire for a short to ground and that should read very high, maybe 100K or more as it should be infinite. Some senders had a single wire with the stud of the sender being ground. Some had more than one wire and in that case the second wire might be the ground, or it is a power feed to the sender and the other is the return to the computer. This type of circuit often has the power sent from the computer as a regulated voltage. That feed may also be sent to other sensors. So the internals of the computer could be failing or something else is loading that voltage line. Once that is determined, also check for proper voltage at the sending unit. Disconnected should be the regulated voltage. Check connected voltage by back-probing, looking for a voltage drop that could cause the output to be out of tolerance. Do the same at the computer to determine it it is computer or wiring issue. If there are three wires at sender, one is likely power, another is ground, and the third being signal. In this case it might be a purely resistive output, or it might be a fancy modulated signal, which likely also means a pricier sender. |
|
|
|
|
Replying to: bgadams (Aug 21, 2008 8:34 am) Caution on aftermarket, I used one a number of years ago and it just did not spin as fast as the OEM, so less cooling when needed. |
|
|
|
|
Replying to: bdblkab96 (Aug 19, 2008 7:21 pm) FYI, I am an old hot rod builder/drag racer. When building a high performance engine, one normally changes or modifies the oil pump so that it puts out greater pressure and volume than stock...this is critical to engine life. Performance application demand greater pressure and volume. The gaskets and seals on an engine are not located in areas where the oil pressure would affect them...it is not easy to give a full explanation here, but in very basic terms the oil pump circulates lubricant under highest pressure through the oil galleries in the engine block directing this flow to the crankshaft bearings with a residual amount going to the camshafts and valve train...these are the areas that are pressure lubed....the areas that are guided by bearing elements. the balance of the engine internals are lubed simply by splash or drip without pressure involvment.....it is these areas that are contained by the gaskets and seals...for example the engine pan, upper valve train covers, crankshaft ends,etc. So, in very basic terms there are no gaskets or seals to "blow" as a result of elevated oil pressure.....because there is no elevation of oil pressure in these areas where gaskets and seals are located...so this is an unfounded fear and you should no fear. hope this helps...dusty
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: dustyrustee (Aug 22, 2008 4:23 pm) But it would seem unlikely that the head gasket would fail in such a way as to create a major leak, internal, without failure of coolant or combustion chamber seal. But then the engineer might have put that galley too close to an edge of the gasket where it might be more susceptible to leak because of the greater changes with aluminum. Yet, we are talking about a low pressure system to start with. But there is one thing that has intrigued me because the pressures go so high when cold. Sort of like a combination of high and low pressure systems. Works on high pressure until the engine is heated and tolerances have settled to operating specification. Weird huh? Again, I'd rely on actual pressures checked with guage, and I know there is a specification chart that shows both cold and warm temps for checking. I think it was at All-Data. |
|
You are here:
Forums
Sedans Oldsmobile Aurora Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2003 Oldsmobile Aurora
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
