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Sedans Oldsmobile Aurora Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair
4284 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 6:21 AM
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Replying to: pharry752 (Aug 15, 2008 6:04 am) |
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Replying to: pharry752 (Aug 15, 2008 6:04 am) One place to look for leak is backfire valve in end of manifold. It has a flapper door with a rubber seal around it and I found mine tore up. I had to remove manifold and then found manifold totally gunked up. Totally surprised since it should only have blowby and EGR gasses. Gunked up to the point I had a hard time removing valve which locks in place with maybe a quarter turn and has another seal around edge. They are an available part, but I did mine before the fuel rail that I hate. |
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 30, 2008 4:53 pm) I own a 96. About a year and a half ago my alarm was going off every time I came to a stop light or stand still. Raising the idle above 1k of course stops the bling bling bling with the higher RPM. One could raise the idle setting to help but not with the cost of fuel these days. So I took it to my mechanic and had the "actual" pressure tested. He mentioned the fact that if you don't hear the valves clicking, the oil is circulating as it should. He was quite surprised to find it at about 25 lbs with the low pressure alarm sounding off. So he replaced the Pressure sensor and poof problem solved. About a week ago I drove into NYC and sat in traffic. Guess what started in again ? This time it was intermittent. Sometimes bling bling bling and sometime everything was fine at idle. So I thought ay, the dammed sensor went bad again. Brought it back to the mechanic. He replaced the sensor with another new one. First stop light.... BLING BLING BLING BLING !!!! every stop after that ? BLING BLING BLING BLING...has a good tempo but it is worse than it was before I brought it back to him. Now they say they have to pull the Pan, but to do that they have to pull the Tranny. But they don't do that and have to send it to a Tranny shop but the tranny shop don't pull oil pans ! I had them put the old sensor back in. Do an oil change with a heavier grade oil. Everything is fine now but I see the pressure is higher than it should be. Now I idle at about 30 + lbs, 86 to 90 + when cold.. What do I do now ? Is my engine suddenly going to explode oil out of every conceivable gasket ? They told me that they put in "straight 30 weight". This all started about 2 years ago when I had my oil change done at Walmart. The Dealer was getting expensive. $1,000 + bucks every time I needed something done. Weird. I lucked out and found a mechanic that knows the cars but now I am starting to doubt this shops knowledge. What are your thoughts or more so ...knowledge. 
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have no fear of your oil pressure readings....you should be very pleased they are that high...especially with only 30 weight oil, which is not a particularly heavy or high viscosity oil..tells me that all your rod and crank bearings are in great shape...ditto for your oil pump internals.. no fear of 'blowing gaskets', etc...none at all...engine gaskets dont factor into the equation at all....
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Replying to: bdblkab96 (Aug 19, 2008 5:03 pm) What is the logic behind pulling the oil pan? Are the lifters clicking? My '97 shows 70+ psi at idle when cold and running 10w-30 Mobil 1, so 85+ does not surprise me with straight 30 weight. I do not remember how the pressure sender triggers the low-pressure alarm. Does anyone know if shorted wiring could do it? Les |
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Replying to: blk97aurora (Mar 26, 2007 3:50 pm) I had several. And a blown dash board lighting fuse under the rear seat. I'm guessing you have read the blogs about how to fix those wires ? If not, let me know and I will advise asap. (now that I remember my log on.) I just recently had to replace my driver door window motor. I thought at first I missed a wire but when using the window switch, I could hear that it was clicking which told me it was getting power to the switch. But of course I allocated the time to take the door apart to make sure anyway. Now I am in the infamous low oil pressure mode again. This time it looks like it is more than just a change out of the oil pressure sensor. There are some informative discussions on that too. 
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Replying to: blk97aurora (Aug 19, 2008 5:46 pm) The alarm sounds when the sensor/sender drops below 5 psi typically Mine rang out just before zero. This always occurred when at hot idle. Apparently there is a way to hook up this external actual pressure indicator while the car is running. As I stated, sort of, I have no lifter clicking at all and believe me I know very well the sound of lifter clicking from my younger days. Spent a few hours changing out Hydraulics in my International PU too. (you know back in the days we could rebuild engines ourselves) It was about a year and a half ago that I had the sensor/sender replaced. We are at the mercy of the mechanics knowledge. That in itself can skew all of our related issues. The mechanic said that I was getting a false reading from that sensor/sender. Replaced it and all remained well until now. By this new replacement not doing the trick tells me something else somewhere else is wrong. As stated within this forum, there are several other factors that can affect oil pressure levels. One being bearings located inside the oil pan. But what I want to know is.... do you really need to pull the tanny to get the oil pan out ? Maybe I will take a good look this weekend myself. According to this forum, the alarm is triggerd by several possible factors. Knowing the "cheap wiring" in the vehicle, that may also be a contributor. But not necessarily. I prefer to use 10w 30 M1 myself. maybe that too ? .
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Replying to: dustyrustee (Aug 19, 2008 5:37 pm) I will be taking her for a seven hour cruise soon. And yes, I was very pleased to hear of those pressure readings. I also liked the expression on the mechanics face when he saw them. I just can't like blowing gaskets. No matter what kind they are. Thanks
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Replying to: bdblkab96 (Aug 19, 2008 6:10 pm) Today with controls set on low temp and high fan it came on after 10 minutes of driving and blew for 10 or 15 more before failing again. I did make a hard right turn just before it started up, and have had that happen a few times past. I hesitate to pay the dealer to train his tech at my expence. When I had it there last, the tech said he checked the relays but could find nothing wrong. Is it possible that I have a cracked relay that is making intermittent contact. Please help me if you can. Thanks.
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Replying to: bdblkab96 (Aug 19, 2008 6:39 pm) If pressure reads good at sender location, then you are down to the sender itself, wiring, and computer. I'd say eliminate wiring as it is cheapest and a new sender won't work any better unless slight tolerances allow it to send a marginally better signal. I don't know for sure, but think this sender is of the older style with varying resistance, not like some of the newer where a modulated signal is created. So locate the sender, disconnect wiring and check it at connector. Might want to disconnect battery to be safe, especially with next steps. Remove the main connector at the firewall that everything passes through and check for corrosion or other obvious defects. (Reconnecting might be enough to force better contact, but maybe consider some anticorrosive sprayed into the contacts. Silicone grease is also an excellent protective that does not conduct.) Go to the computer and do the same thing with connectors there. Also locate the wire feeding computer and measure resistance from sender to it which should be near zero ohms, that is less than one ohm I would hope. Don't forget to check the ground circuit and also check the signal wire for a short to ground and that should read very high, maybe 100K or more as it should be infinite. Some senders had a single wire with the stud of the sender being ground. Some had more than one wire and in that case the second wire might be the ground, or it is a power feed to the sender and the other is the return to the computer. This type of circuit often has the power sent from the computer as a regulated voltage. That feed may also be sent to other sensors. So the internals of the computer could be failing or something else is loading that voltage line. Once that is determined, also check for proper voltage at the sending unit. Disconnected should be the regulated voltage. Check connected voltage by back-probing, looking for a voltage drop that could cause the output to be out of tolerance. Do the same at the computer to determine it it is computer or wiring issue. If there are three wires at sender, one is likely power, another is ground, and the third being signal. In this case it might be a purely resistive output, or it might be a fancy modulated signal, which likely also means a pricier sender. |
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