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You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora
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Oldsmobile Aurora, Auto Repair, Sedan
Oct 08, 2007 (11:55 am)
I have a 1997 Oldsmobile aurora...The transmission acts like it has no power at all it wont go into any gears at all even reverse or drive unless you get the rpms up to like 5000 then it will go into gear but to get it to drive you have to stay at the high rpms....just wondering if it is the tranny or something else causing it...and also the car has always started then one day someone left a light on in it and the battery went dead so we jumped it and it started right up....then like 2 weeks later went to start it and it started right up i turned it off then went to start it again and no noice at all only a clicking sound in the fuse box in the back seat....tried to jump it and still same thing...and also my turning signals come on but dont flash just stay on solid just wondering if anyone else has had these problems.
#3844 of 4484 Re:aurora multifunction switch repair! WORKS!
Oct 08, 2007 (4:48 pm)
The problem with the multifunction headlight control switch can be caused by too much grease in the rotating part of the switch where the contacts are housed. This can short out the contacts and make the headlights stay on or randomly flash on and off after the ignition is turned off, and can also cause a flat battery. Flashing headlights will probably be accompanied by clicking from the LCM (Lamp Control Module). Your GM dealer can replace the multifunction switch, and the parts and labour can cost you up to $500 or more - the solution detailed here may therefore save you several hundred dollars, and the switch does not have to be replaced or removed from the steering column. The procedure may also apply to other cars with a switch similar to the one used in the Aurora.
"Well I finally fixed the flashing light illness that took over my car and killed her battery."
Here's what you'll need:
Socket set or wrenches (specifically 10mm and 8mm in size)
5mm or 3/16th nutdriver
Electrical Contact cleaner (spray kind with plastic straw attached)
Radio Shack #64-4315 Contact/Control Cleaner Lubricant.
Compressed air (with plastic straw attached)
Radio Shack #64-4351 Velocity Dust Remover Spray
Now here's how to tackle the problem:
Disconnect negative battery terminal from battery. You will use the 8mm socket here. Remember that the battery is under the back seat.
Disconnect 10 amp air bag fuse on drivers side of dash (hidden by the door). The correct fuse is on the top left of the fuse box.
Remove sound absorber (black in color) from just above the pedals. There are three phillips screws holding on the panel.
Also, disconnect the air bag circuit (the thing with the yellow tag on it) by first pulling out the green plastic lock that's in there. Just pull that green thing staight out and then separate the two connections.
Remove two 10mm screws from dash colored knee bolster (the part just below the steering wheel). There are two 10mm screws that you can see and another two you can't see yet.
Pry out button panels on either side of the steering wheel. The ones with the twilight and the trunk buttons. Grab where the plexiglass meets the panel with the buttons and pull out in a downward motion, leave the switch harnesses connected.
Use the 10mm socket to remove the two remaining bolts that hold the knee bolster in place.
Use the nutdriver to remove six screws that hold the steering wheel colums cover on. The three that secure the bottom are easy to see, the other three that secure the bottom to the top aren't. There is one that is in the top left hand corner of the tilt lever housing and the other two are on either side of the steering wheel column (where the top right and top left sides of the column meet the plexiglass).
Remove the trim piece that goes around the ignition switch (the piece with the words OFF,ACC, RUN and START on it). Just grab the piece and pull it straight out.
Remove the steering column upper and lower covers.
I forgot to take a picture of this, but if you look directly down the turn signal stalk (you may have to hold the rubber piece out of the way) you will see some screws. If you look to the right of those screws (closer to the stalk itself) you will see five little holes in a semicircular pattern. You will now want to take your contact cleaner and spray it into each of these holes. Follow your application of the contact cleaner with an application of compressed air (so you can get any grease and crud out of there that is loosened by the contact cleaner). Use towels to clean up and be generous with both the cleaner and the compressed air. Repeat this procedure 10-12 times while lubing the switch (turn the headlight switch through each of its three "clicking" points).
Wait about 30 minutes (I waited for about an hour) so you can be sure everything is dry.
Reconnect the battery.
Make sure it works OK. Sometimes you'll need to go through the cleaning procedure again.
If your headlights continue to stay on after cleaning the switch then you will want to check inside the Lamp Control Module. The LCM box easily snaps apart after removing 4 phillips head screws. There are 3 small coil relays on the circuit board. You'll probably need a magnifying glass to look at the contacts on them. These contacts can develop a build-up that can close off the gap. Use the tip of sharp knife to scrape off the high spots, and then check the contacts to make sure they now work OK.
Time to put everything back together. Remember to reconnect the airbag circut and replace the fuse (make sure the ignition is turned off for this part).
Congratulate yourself on a job well done and drink a favorite beverage as a toast to the money you just saved.
From the forums:
A huge thank you to thumpin455 for your instructions to fix this "96 Aurora strange problem" I had no problems following your detailed instructions and now my Aurora is OK. Running lights are not blinking on and off anymore and no more clicking of the relays in the black box under the dash. Many many thanks and may God bless you for sharing your knowledge with us all. One note to others is that this problem was intermittent for approximately one year before it became constant just last month. Thanks again......
YOU ROCK!! Ok, I just finished the repair on my 99 Aurora with the clicking/flashing problem, the hardest part was locating a 5mm nut driver, but once I did, WOW! I almost can't believe it worked! Thanks so much!!
Thanks a bunch! Dealer wanted $600 to install new light switch...I did the cleaning thing yesterday and parking lights are fixed! The crazy type screws on the steering shroud gave me a fit however I bought a 3/16ths. nut driver and got them out. Again....thanks...I owe you one!
Man it really works Well I haven't actually done it yet, but I took off the steering cover and found the 5 holes. One of the holes was filled with grease so I got a small knife with a sharp tip and cleaned the grease and the lights stopped flashing. I'm on my way right now to Radio Shack right now to get the contact cleaner and compressed air so I can do the job right. Thanks in advance.
#3845 of 4484 Re: Outside temp reading going crazy... [beachlover333]
Oct 14, 2007 (5:51 am)
We are having the same problem. Our temperature outside reads 110 and we are in New England ...its 55 degrees.
WHere did you find the sensor to change?
#3846 of 4484 brakes acting up
Oct 26, 2007 (10:48 pm)
Hi, my brakes are acting up on my 1996 Aurora. While driving when I apply the brakes they come on good but as I keep braking the pedal seems to loose pressure in small incurements as if the anti-lock brakes where coming on. This is happening on dry pavement (the brakes come on strong but loose pressure) I was wondering if anybody else has had this problem and can help me out. There is no lights on the dash indicating a problem with the braking system. Thanks
#3847 of 4484 Re: brakes acting up [jagir03]
Oct 27, 2007 (9:19 am)
Sounds like the brake master cylinder may be leaking internally. I have not had this problem with my '97 Aurora (yet), but it is quite common with vehicles >100k miles.
Oct 29, 2007 (6:15 pm)
I just picked up a 97 aurora with a 4.0v8 it has 100,000 miles on it it is a beautifull car.I paid one thousand dollars for it and was told the head gaskets were bad.The guy tells me the car leaks coolant and overheats if the car is going over 40mph.I checked the coolant level and its full ,I ran the car it seems to get to about 210 degrees but runs mint. there is no fluid on the ground.upon closer inpection I realized the coolant resivoirs cap has a check valve on it and all around the resivor is coolant .It looks like whene you drive it it blows coolant out that check valve.Does this sound familliar to anyone.Any help would be much appreciated
#3849 of 4484 Re: E20 [butchmotors]
Oct 30, 2007 (4:36 am)
Sounds like you got a good deal. Have a rad. shop pressure test the system. Could be head gaskets, but still a bargain for 1K.
Oct 30, 2007 (7:26 am)
I bought the car planning on doing both headgaskets and timing chain so not a big let down.I have a pressure tester i just have to grab an adaptor for the overflow tank . I just dont want to rip the top end apart for nothing . Ive watched the car get up to temp 10 times and it runs mint but then I see the coolant all around the resivor I know the guys not crazy. I just think its fishy the way it only overflows when its moving "supposedly".Im gonna pressure test it in a little while.
Oct 30, 2007 (7:47 am)
You'd best do something fairly soon. Coolant that is possibly coating engine bearings is not a good thing.
#3852 of 4484 Re: E20 [butchmotors]
Oct 30, 2007 (2:59 pm)
I'm curious -- why are you planning to change the timing chains?