Last post on Oct 04, 2013 at 1:57 PM
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Oldsmobile Aurora, Auto Repair, Sedan
#3259 of 4484 95 Aurora Fuel/Electrical Issue
Apr 12, 2006 (7:31 pm)
I have a '95 Aurora that is really giving me a fit lately.
Six months ago I had a problem with it not starting at all. I had it towed to my mechanic and he changed the fuel pump, and fuel filter. Took the car home and it ran for about a week and then the same thing over again. 6 months and 6 fuel pumps, fuel tank, injectors, fuel rail, later I am still having the same problem.
I have had this car to an Oldsmobile/Cadillac dealer (they are the ones that said the injectors were plugged up) and to two different mechanics. Yesterday, I finally got dirty myself and removed the cover from the fuel tank (inside the trunk) to gain access to the fuel pump. I wanted to check the voltage at the pump to see if it was getting power while it would not start. It was, it was getting approx 11.5 v with the key on, cranking voltage at the pump was approx 10.3. I put the plug back on while it was cranking and the engine fired and ran good for 2 days.
I had heard different opinions about "after-market" fuel pumps not working with the Aurora's so I finally broke down and took it back to the dealer to have yet another pump installed. This time is was an OEM pump from GM. Thought this was the fix, well 10 hrs after picking it up at the dealer the same thing again.
The funny part of this whole thing is that every time it is towed and gets to a garage the darn thing fires up and runs fine. When I had the pump cover off after checking the voltage I also tapped on the top of the fuel pump with my tire iron (tapped! not SMACKED! - lol).
I am really at my wits end with this car I paid $4000 for it in 2002 and it has cost me well over $3000 in repair bills over the past 6 months. I have checked the wiring harness from the relay back to the pump, the relay itself, fuses, etc etc. The one thing that I keep coming back to is the fact that the steering column was replaced shortly after I bought the car and though perhaps there could be something going wrong there with the security system. The ignition switch was swapped out of the old column into the new one.
I have changed the PCM, battery, fuses, pumps, injectors, fuel rail, relays, fuel tank, fuel filters, etc etc. I really do not know where to go from here and I really don't want to just "junk" it as it is a thing with me now, I NEED to know what the heck is wrong with this thing.
PLEASE anybody HELP!
#3260 of 4484 Re: Heater/Air Conditioner won't shut off after I turn the car off. [joesmith21]
Apr 13, 2006 (5:40 pm)
On some cars there's an automatic blower control that replaces the resistor coils on manual switching for fan speeds. The box is on the heater somewhere. On H cars it's on the blower box in the engine compartment. The item can fail in connect mode with the blower motor running. And others fail to work predictably changing speeds oddly.
It may be on the heater box inside the car but it's cooled by the stream of air from the blower itself. Advance Auto has them for H cars, leSabre and Bonneville.
#3261 of 4484 Re: 95 Aurora Fuel/Electrical Issue [eaglesnest51]
Apr 13, 2006 (7:32 pm)
All the repair attempts you report are fuel-related. However, you did not mention replacing the fuel-pressure regulator. If it is leaking, it causes the engine to flood and be hard to start. Usually not a no-start situation, however.
Has anyone checked for spark? How about diagnostic codes?
I'm wondering if your problem could be an intermittent ignition module or crankshaft position sensor.
#3262 of 4484 Re: fuel consumption & TCC lock [e_net_rider]
Apr 13, 2006 (8:27 pm)
I have owned my '97 for 6.5 years and 91 000 miles; during that time I have kept meticulous records for fuel use. My DIC almost always reports less fuel used than is pumped into the tank. The DIC mpg is off by the same percentage. Like you, I also figure the DIC readout is calculated by accumulating injector PWM over time; I suspect there is either a problem with the PCM algorithm or assumed fuel pressure (and therefore fuel delivery) isn't correct.
My '97 service manual shows the injectors are individually controlled by the PCM. I cannot find any timing values.
The only connection I can see between cruise and TCC is the brake switch that is intended to turn both off when brake pedal is depressed. I don't see how that might be causing your problem.
#3263 of 4484 Re: 95 Aurora Fuel/Electrical Issue [blk97aurora]
Apr 13, 2006 (8:46 pm)
Thanks for that, yes we have checked the spark, in fact when the engine won't fire on it's own, if you spray throttle body cleaner into the throat while it is cranking it will light right up and run as long as you pour the cleaner to it. So that elimiates electrical, at least from a spark, timing, etc., position. The other thing that I didn't mention either is the fact that while it is cranking it should build pressure in the fuel rail, it does not, when you depress the schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail there is no pressure at all. However when the pump is working there is plenty of pressure.
Hmmm, yes they have checked the codes, but I can't tell you what they are at this time. As I stated it is real difficult because everytime we put it on a tow rig and take it to a shop, it starts right off while at the shop...
#3264 of 4484 AC Compressor
Apr 14, 2006 (3:38 am)
98 Olds Aurora
Any advice on AC that isn't working, the shop said it was "probably" the AC compressor. They quoted me "$850" which seems high, has anyone else had this problem with the compressor going out? I wonder if there is a leak somewhere else... I would hate to spend that kind of money it isn't necessary, yet I do want AC for the summer.
#3265 of 4484 Re: AC Compressor [coreyg1]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Apr 14, 2006 (7:25 am)
well the shop should "probably" test the system completely and probably come up with the right answer before spending your money. There are plenty of good diagnostic tools to pinpoint an AC leak exactly.
#3266 of 4484 Re: 95 Aurora Fuel/Electrical Issue [eaglesnest51]
Apr 14, 2006 (8:17 am)
A quote from your first post, "I wanted to check the voltage at the pump to see if it was getting power while it would not start. It was, it was getting approx 11.5 v with the key on, cranking voltage at the pump was approx 10.3. I put the plug back on while it was cranking and the engine fired and ran good for 2 days."
I can't quite tell from your description -- did you check for voltage at the pump connector, while connected to the pump and engine cranking and not starting? Or was the connector disconnected? Either way, I am suspicious of the connector, either corroded contacts or broken wire.
#3267 of 4484 Re: SLAMMING [herbert11]
Apr 16, 2006 (5:38 am)
Same thing happened to me yesterday for the fist time. Car has 80M.
Slamming so hard felt like driveshaft was coming htrough floor.
Haven't started it yet today.
Any luck finding the problem?
Bought the car 3M ago and has riden like a dream so far until yesterday.
#3268 of 4484 Re: SLAMMING [billy17]
Apr 16, 2006 (8:58 am)
I would check the speed sensor that is at the top of the transmission. This sensor checks the speed of the internal transmission and then allows the shift to take place. If the sensor is bad the transmission will shift arbitrarily and will result in the slamming. The good part, sensor is $45, labor to install about $400.