Last post on Oct 04, 2013 at 1:57 PM
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Oldsmobile Aurora, Auto Repair, Sedan
#2332 of 4484 The Fuel rail confusion continues..!!
Dec 05, 2004 (2:17 am)
I looked up some documents on the Office of Defect Investigation (ODI), and I copied and pasted the following article reference the fuel rail, which may explain why some dealers are leaving the nylon tubbing on, which my guess would be because it's the upgraded version, however, why would some cars have stainless steel rail and some have the Nylon, and how come they didn't just stick with the upgraded nylon instead of going to stainless steel, I mean if the upgraded nylon is so safe, why go to stainless steel...hummmm..!!! anyway, the following is the article:
NHTSA Action Number : PE03050 NHTSA Recall Campaign Number : N/A
Make : OLDSMOBILE Model: AURORA
Manufacturer : GENERAL MOTORS CORP. Year : 1995
Component : FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE:FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM:FUEL RAIL
Date Investigation Opened : October 30, 2003
Date Investigation Closed : February 3, 2004
THE FUEL RAIL ASSEMBLIES USED IN THE SUBJECT VEHICLES WERE MANUFACTURED BY DANA. THE FUEL RAIL JUMPER TUBES WERE MADE OF MONOLAYER NYLON 12 (PA12). IN MODEL YEAR (MY) 1998, THE JUMPER TUBE MATERIAL WAS CHANGED FROM PA12 TO M-BOND (A MULTI-LAYER PTFE/PA12). IN ADDITION, ALL SERVICE PARTS PRODUCED SINCE THE END OF PRODUCTION 1997 USE THE M-BOND JUMPER TUBES. MATERIAL ANALYSIS PERFORMED BY DANA ON FAILED FUEL RAILS SHOWED THAT THE MONO-LAYER NYLON 12 JUMPER TUBES ARE SUSCEPTIBLE TO ENVIRONMENTAL STRESS CRACKING (ESC). GM BELIEVES THE ESC IS A RESULT OF HEAT, TIME, ALCOHOL BLENDED FUEL, FUEL PRESSURE CYCLING, AND DESIGNED IN STRESS. EIGHT OF THE GM COMPLAINTS ARE DUPLICATIVE OF ODI COMPLAINTS. ODI HAS RECEIVED 77 OF IT'S 123 COMPLAINTS IN THE PAST 12 MONTHS. FUEL RAIL PART SALES OVER THE LAST THREE YEARS RANGE FROM 3.0 PERCENT OF PRODUCTION FOR THE MY 1997 CADILLAC VEHICLES TO 13.1 PERCENT FOR THE MY 1995 AURORAS. AT LEAST ONE OF THE FIRE INCIDENTS OCCURED WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED WITHIN A GARAGE ATTACHED TO THE CONSUMERS HOME. THE FIRE RESULTED IN DAMAGE TO THE DWELLING AS WELL AS THE TOTAL LOSS OF THE VEHICLE. THIS INVESTIGATION HAS BEEN UPGRADED TO AN ENGINEERING ANALYSIS.
#2333 of 4484 I need some advice;
Dec 05, 2004 (1:57 pm)
I know this is probably a stupid question, but what are the signs that your struts are going bad?
Lately, my 97 seems to be making almost what sounds like a grinding noise when going over small dips or bumps in the road. It is coming from the left front of the car. I only notice it at speeds below 35 mph. Car has 79,000 miles on it.
Dec 06, 2004 (6:17 pm)
At 80k miles, its safe to say that the struts should be replaced. I changed my shocks/struts when the car developed a float like a boat type ride. The front end would float up and down when going over bumps.
#2335 of 4484 TPS switch code
Dec 07, 2004 (6:07 am)
I have a 95 that won't shift it's stuck in low gear. it's had the solinoids repaired the service engine light is on when the dealer read the codes it came back tps switch I replaced it with no change I am thinking it's a wireing problem is there any way to check voltage at switch connector?
#2336 of 4484 Re: TPS switch code [mushey]
Dec 08, 2004 (12:15 pm)
What's "TPS" for those of us who don't know..?
#2337 of 4484 Re: TPS switch code [ramou]
Dec 08, 2004 (3:44 pm)
TPS is throttle position sensor.
#2338 of 4484 Alternator replacement on 98 classic
Dec 09, 2004 (11:49 am)
cost est. from $100 - $235 for parts depending on whether you have it rebuilt or purchase on already done. Replaced it myself in about 2 hours. No special tools or skills required. Comes out through the top left side between the rad and engine. Replaced the idler and tensioner pullies first thinking they were the culprits. That was a much bigger job but nothing like what some posts here have described ie: cutting off long bolts etc. I'm at 94500 miles .. nice and quiet now. Love this car.
#2339 of 4484 Re: Chimes [dr_turbo]
Dec 10, 2004 (3:42 pm)
My car no longer has a chime at all. My DIC also reads "park brake set" when in gear. What controls the chime, and where is the chime located. I would really like to know when I leave my lights on, or the key in the ignition. Also, what senses the input of the seat belts, park brake, open doors, key in the ignition etc... I was told to replace the body control module, but to no avail. Thanks in advance for the help
#2340 of 4484 Won't start ...sometimes
Dec 13, 2004 (5:02 am)
Help, I'm desperate. Sometimes when trying to start my '96 with 108k miles, nothing happens, the starter doesn't turn, nothing. Then if you turn the ignition switch on and off enough times the headlights come on and some of the idiot lights come back on and I know it will start..and it does. The battery was replaced, the charging system is fine, so it's either the starter or the ignition switch, or something to do with the security sytem. My guess is the starter is fine since the problem appears to be tied into the headlights and some of the idiot lights. If the ignition switch were bad would any lights come on? That possibly leaves something in the security system? Am I way off base...ANY help would be greatly appreciated!
#2341 of 4484 Security problem
Dec 13, 2004 (5:49 pm)
There is probably something going wrong with your car's PASS-KEY system. There's a resistor in your ignition key with a certain value, and the car expects to be able to read the value before starting.
I'd get some contact cleaner from Radio Shack or wherever, and first clean your key. Then spray the cleaner into the ignition (blow out crud with compressed air first). If you have two keys, does the second key have the problem as well? If so, it's more likely to be the ignition than the key...