Last post on Oct 04, 2013 at 1:57 PM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora
What is this discussion about?
Oldsmobile Aurora, Auto Repair, Sedan
#1526 of 4484 Thread Repair Info TSB's
Jan 18, 2004 (10:15 am)
Here's the first:
Document ID# 641062
Info - New Thread Repair Kit for Damaged Engine Block Bolt Holes #99-06-01-015 - (10/04/1999)
1993 Cadillac Allante, Sixty Special (FWD)
1993-96 Cadillac Fleetwood
1993-99 Cadillac DeVille, Eldorado, Seville
1994-99 Cadillac Concours
1995-1999 Oldsmobile Aurora
with 4.0 L or 4.6 L Engine (VINs C, Y, 9 -- RPOs L47, LD8, L37)
A thread repair kit (Kent-Moore J 42385-500) is available to repair damaged engine block bolt holes for the cylinder head bolts and the crankshaft main bearing bolts. Installation instructions are included with each kit.
Here's the second:
Document ID# 742394
Info - Enhanced Aluminum Engine Component Thread Repair Process #00-06-01-016 - (08/10/2000)
1993 Cadillac Allante
1993-2001 Cadillac Eldorado, Seville
1994-1999 Cadillac DeVille Concours
1996-2001 Cadillac DeVille
2000-2001 Cadillac DeVille Touring
1997-2001 Chevrolet Corvette
1998-2001 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-2001 Oldsmobile Aurora (V8)
1999-2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue
2001 Oldsmobile Aurora (V6)
1998-2001 Pontiac Firebird
with 2.2 L, 3.5 L, 4.0 L, 4.6 L or 5.7 L Engine (VINs F, H, C, 9, Y, G, S -- RPOs L61, LX5, L47, L37, LD8, LS1, LS6)
An enhanced thread repair process has been developed for use on General Motors aluminum engine components for the above listed engines. The thread repair kits used for this process represent a significant advancement in aluminum component thread repair, providing consistently repeatable high quality repairs which, when properly performed, will meet or exceed the original specifications. This enhanced thread repair process can, and should, be used to repair aluminum engine components, instead of complete engine replacement, whenever possible. Kent-Moore has distributed these thread repair kits to General Motors dealerships as part of their essential tool packages. The J 43965 Thread Repair Extension Kit has proven to be invaluable in the repair of difficult to access thread repair locations. Listed below are the Engine VINs / RPOs and the applicable Kent-Moore essential tool thread repair kits.
Engine VIN / Engine RPO
Kent-Moore Thread Repair Kit Number
VIN G, S/ RPO LS1, LS6
J 42385-100 Main Cap/Head Bolt Kit
J 42385-200 General Thread Repair Kit
J 42385-300 Fixture and Hardware Kit
VIN 9, Y, C / RPO L37, LD8, L47
J 42385-500 Main Cap/Head Bolt Kit
J 42385-2000 Thread Repair Kit
VIN H / RPO LX5
J 42385-600 Thread Repair Kit
J 42385-625 Thread Repair Kit
J 42385-650 Thread Repair Kit
J 42385-675 Complete Thread Repair Kit
J 42385-675 Contains the contents of 600, 625 and 650 Thread Repair Kits)
VIN F / RPO L61
J 42385-850 Thread Repair Kit
J 43965 Thread Repair Extension Kit
Consult the appropriate applicable GM Service Manual or Kent-Moore thread repair kit for complete detailed instructions on the proper use of the above thread repair kits.
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation * Description * Labor Time
J1900 * Engine Assembly Thread Repair * 0.1-0.3 hr
This Thread Repair Labor Operation can only be used in conjunction with other component Labor Operation numbers
#1527 of 4484 Thank you to Alcan
Jan 18, 2004 (10:36 am)
For the GM TSB #s for the use of Time-Serts
#1528 of 4484 fuel leak in my 95
Jan 18, 2004 (7:49 pm)
Engine light came on while my wife was driving our 95, went out after 10 minutes; a couple of times. Popped the hood and saw moisture had sprayed on the air intake hose. One of the two rubber-coated fuel lines had a pinhole leak right before it goes back to hardline and into the intake. I assume this is not the usual fuel rail leak. But, has anyone replaced this shiney plastic fuel line? It looks like the plastic is heat-shrunk onto the hardlines. Does the rubber line come separate or complete with the hard lines at both ends? Anyone do one of these yet?
#1529 of 4484 Fuel leak repair
Jan 19, 2004 (6:18 am)
My '95 had a similar leak a year ago. There are three plastic (?) fuel lines coming from the firewall to the intake. One of those sprung a leak. My neighborhood mechanic simply ordered a high pressure hose of the same diameter (don't know if it was specifically for fuel lines or not - that's what I pay him for, to know what will work) and replaced it. He only charged me like $20 for the length of hose and another $10 or so for replacing it.
Jan 19, 2004 (12:49 pm)
My bad, I just assumed it was another bad dealer and let that color the way I read your post!
#1531 of 4484 Oil light on cold mornings
Jan 19, 2004 (4:05 pm)
Hey fellow Aurorians,
Since our second spell of this sub-zero weather here in Wisconsin, my Aurora's oil light has been coming on for 2-3 seconds on a cold start (10 degrees F or colder). This has happened even spanning an oil change (10W30) last Wednesday. I've obviously checked the oil level and it's fine. I've even tried letting the car sit in the ignition position (w/o turning it over) for 5-10 seconds - still comes on for 2-3 seconds on a cold start.
It takes the Driver Info Center 2-3 seconds to boot up, but once I hit it, the oil pressure is climing from the 20's up to 67 or so, where it remains until the engine is warm. It's around 46-49 and freeway cruising speeds. I don't see the oil light on warm starts, or cold starts above 10 degrees F or so.
I know that cold oil flows slower, but is this possibly the sending unit going bad, or the sign of something more ominous? I don't hear any squealing/clicking/tapping noises at startup.
whose favorite feature this time of year is the heated seats.
Jan 19, 2004 (6:17 pm)
It sounds like it's just the cold oil not wanting to flow as easily. You should probably switch to 5w-30 (that's what is recommended for my car) and maybe a 0w-30 in the winter. I doubt it is sensor related since it is only on startup in cold weather. Given the extreme cold, I'd suggest a synthetic also. I think it's your oil, not your car...
Jan 20, 2004 (5:41 am)
I would tend to agree. Usually I will change to 5w-30 around the end of November and run that through winter...but if I try to push it my car will do the same thing when it gets really cold out. When I have 5w-30 in, I rarely see the oil light at startup, and if I do it is just for a second at most. I'm also using Mobil 1 year round.
And yes, it would be hard to make it through winter without those heated seats
Jan 20, 2004 (8:21 am)
My heated seat warms up so slow it's not worth so much. By the time it starts to warm, it's basically defrosting my butt. On our Impala, the seats heat fast.
#1535 of 4484 Ive been away for a while--heres a long post.
Jan 21, 2004 (9:58 am)
Its been a rough last couple of months.
1. Fuel pump went out. Got stuck on the side of the road and was forcced to use a high priced shop to repair it. $700 parts and labor.
2. 1 week after fuel pump went out my fuel rail cracked. $323 parts and labor.
3. 1 week after fuel rail I get a batch of VERY VERY bad gas that causes 6 of my injectors to blow and severely flood my engine. $1000 parts and labor for All 8 Fuel injectors and 8 park plugs plus a few oil changes.
4. 1 week after injectors my FPR goes out. $100 parts and labor.
Man I love this car sooooooooo much.lol
Right now Im having a voltage concern. My car is always running above 15 V. Ussually at or around 15.5V. I checked with a Voltometer and it is correct. Is the only thing this can be is the Alternator??? i would hate to get a new one for nothing. Still has the original battery if that means anything.
Only other thing is my darn windows will not stay fog free for nothing. A/C on or not. Ive tried all the settings and nothing works. Its fine if Im the only one in the car , but if there is 2 or more people riding along I have to keep the heat full blast just so i can see out of the windshield. Is this a heater core? Or a common Aurora problem. The heat works great it just doesnt defogg the windows at all. Moisture somewhere???
Thanks for any help fellas