Last post on Oct 04, 2013 at 1:57 PM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora
What is this discussion about?
Oldsmobile Aurora, Auto Repair, Sedan
Oct 24, 2003 (4:48 am)
I think the Xtravision is just below the SilverStar. Go to this site and get info:
http://www.sylvania.com/bin/carApp/carApp_ver2.pl?flag=model_qual- - s&make=&make=Oldsmobile&year=&year=2002&model- - =Aurora&x=21&y=8#1
I had the same problem as you are experiencing in finding a store that has the halogen, I went to the AutoZone here in town and found one that carried the full line of Sylvania. You just have to check around. I do not feel these halogen are short lived, not any more than any other halogen and I would rather be replacing a lower price halogen that an expensive one HID.
You do get actual more light as the Kelvin temp. goes up. It works hand in hand with output. The Kelvin scale starts with absolute zero.(darkness). In measurement Kelvin(color temp), the light itself has no heat, it is just a measurement of its color temperature which is unlike the Fahrenheit and Celsius scales.
A lot of the HID's are between 5600K (daylight) and 6200K (Sunlight)which is very, very bright. A skylight(spotlite) would be in the 10,000K range. That is why I decided to use the 4000K halogen, to get better lite and not overpower other drivers.
We all have seen how bright the HID lites are and it is unpleasant to ME to have the HID headlights approaching, shining, even blinding in your face as you are trying to drive your car.
Oct 24, 2003 (9:28 am)
I think you are mistaken about the color temperature. Lumens or similar measurements are used to determine light output. Sunlight is roughly 6200K, like you said. So, if you had a closed up room with just a pinhole to the outside, sunlight coming through would still be at 6200K, and still the same color. However, it would not be a lot of light. Or consider one of those 2,000,000 candle-power spotlights. I could take one, put a yellow filter over it, which would reduce the color temperature of the resulting light. However, it would still be incredibly bright and intense, certainly much more so than a single HID car headlight.
HID's tend to put out about 3000 lumens, though often the 6-7000K+ ones put out less. In contrast, the 9005 Hi-beams on our cars put out about 1700 lumens, and the low beam 9006 put out about 1000. This is why I'd like to try a 9005 first, as it is about 70% more light, and only 10 more watts of draw. Plus, it's cheap if it sucks.
Javi, the low current draw is definitly a plus of HIDs. I am pretty interested, but the cost is what keeps me on the fence. Also, my projector beams won't have the even light-field of OEM HIDs. The design of the projector is different. With 1/3rd the light, halogen projectors have a strong central beam, and weaker fill around it. HIDs tend to have even light all around (as they have enough light to do this). So HID bulbs would result in a pretty bright central beam. I'll see how I like the 9005's first. Maybe that'll do it for me and I'll save a few bucks. But HIDs are pretty cool and intriguing.
#1262 of 4484 Low Coolant Level
Oct 26, 2003 (9:11 pm)
My car threw this on the display a few weeks ago.
It seemed to be a combination of two issues. The first being ofcourse the hairline cracks in the upper housing to the radiator. Check this area for cracks as it seems to be a common problem. You will probably see a build up of fluid that is slowly seeping coolant when the car gets warm and RPMs are increased. I patched mine temporarily using some hard compound (e-mail me if you want pictures) it seems to have drastically slowed the leak but the car still seems to lose about 1OZ of coolant per hour running. No big deal in a 13+ QT system. By the way, to get to that housing you'll probably have to take off the front clip. Or just look around for small puddles of coolant after long drives. If you start seeing some then you probably have the problem.
Anyways thats the first issue I drove my car for about 5 hours the other day and lost almost a 1QT this seems to be the level it takes to throw the warning. I believe my issue arose from both that and taking a corner very sharply (when the error was displayed). Either way I wouldn't make a huge deal of it. Check the hoses clamps and Tstat housing. If the car doesnt get hotter then 220 and there are no cracks in your radiator then top off and let it go.
Oct 28, 2003 (8:07 am)
Your low coolant message is a common precursor to a failing water pump in Northstar engines. ive heard the same thing countless times.
Oct 28, 2003 (8:11 am)
My 95 used to always be at like 14.8 V. Now it stays at around 15.5 V. Is this normal or should I be concerened? I still have the original battery in the car and I hope that is the problem. Could it also be a sign that the alternator is beginning to fail? Im not having any problems except a little interior light flicking , but nothing too severe that I am worried about.
Oct 28, 2003 (9:13 am)
Well first I was surprised to find the GM forum gone, so I will try you guys for some help on my AC issue.
Around July of this year I started having AC issues, 96 Aurora. Unit cycling on and off and a temperature difference on the passenger vents vs. the drivers vents. Cool air on the passenger and outside air on the drivers side. Checked all the lines and found a loose fitting. I then Checked it with a pressure gauge and was getting low pressure. Added freon to about 30-35 psi as was recommended in another forum. Also performed the battery disconnect trick to synch any vent motors that were not properly opening. System worked ok, not great for about two months. I did not use it until last week when temperature out west went up, and low and behold no cold air. Compressor cycled on and off. Placed a gauge on the system and it read about 130 psi. immediately recovered the excessive freon and dropped it back down to 30 psi. The line on the low pressure side is cool, not frosty, however there is no cold air blowing through the vents.
How can you tell if the compressor is actually bad or if its something else. As I mentioned the compressor cycles on and off when the AC is on.
I had three compressors replaced when the unit was under warranty and my good friend who was the west coast olds dealer rep told me the compressors were undersized for the Aurora.
Before I replace the compressor or any other items I want to thoroughly check each item, but I am not fully aware of the test to perform, and I really don't feel like getting hosed by the dealer.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Oct 28, 2003 (9:23 am)
Kayaman, I'd try to confirm that the voltage really hits 15.5 and is not just an instrumentation issue. If it does, that is above the max allowable, I believe. It may be that the voltage regulator on the alternator has failed, and it is very unlikely to be related to the battery. I would get this fixed soon so that no electronics are damaged from the extra volts.
Oct 28, 2003 (12:30 pm)
Ill make sure that the voltage is actual. What is the best way to check the voltage? At the alt itself ?
Oct 28, 2003 (1:40 pm)
the other day my fuse blew out and I replaced it . it ran fine but today during a rain storm of coarse.it blew again . I changed the fuse about 5 times . "yes they are 25's". If the wiper motor is gone will this trip the fuse ?
Oct 28, 2003 (3:04 pm)
I think you could use the remote battery posts, the ones used for jumping the car. Just hook a voltmeter up to them.