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How it Works! Welcome to Auto 101

401 messages,  Last post on Feb 29, 2012 at 4:08 PM

You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum.

What is this discussion about? Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Coupe, Convertible, Hatchback, Truck, Sedan, Wagon, SUV, Van

This topic will hopefully allow the more knowledgable of our community members share what they know with those seeking a good explanation for "how things work" in a car; or, this is a good place for equally knowledgable people to discuss the finer points of a technology.

Messages Page 41 of 41

#392 of 401 Re: How to degrease an engine? [tomgreever] by bolivar

Dec 13, 2009 (11:47 pm)

Replying to: tomgreever (Dec 13, 2009 7:45 pm)
If you are going to strip the block down 'all the way' I don't see the need to worry about anything. Take it to a carwash, and turn the hot soapy water on the thing. If you've got a place at home you don't mind a greasy spot with dead grass, spray or dab kerosene all over it and turn the hose on it. Do this several time and it will come clean. If you want to be a little 'greener', buy some Simple Green, which supposedly does not have any hydro-carbons, and spray it on. It does a pretty good job of de-greasing.
 
Now, if you are going to let this block sit over in a corner for a year or so, maybe you should not fill it up with water or Simple Green (I don't think kerosene will hurt, it's greasy enough that it actually will give some protection) and let it just sit. Rust might form somewhere that might cause a problem.
 
I'm actually wondering why you are worried about this? Just take it apart. I think most machine shops will run it thru a de-greasing vat before they start the boring, etc machining.....

#393 of 401 Re: How to degrease an engine? [bolivar] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Dec 14, 2009 (9:25 am)

Replying to: bolivar (Dec 13, 2009 11:47 pm)
Also it's a good idea to use compressed air to blow out the various galleys, passages, etc after you have cleaned it.
 
If the block and head need machine work, these parts are going to get "hot-tanked" anyway by the machine shop.
 
Cleanliness is of primary importance to a successful rebuild, not only because of dirt contamination, but because you can SEE if there are defects that need attention. Some little cracks or stresses are very subtle and on some pile of greased-up metal, you'll never see them.
 
Also carefully examine all the bolts, nuts and studs that you remove and replace or repair them as necessary.
 
Even though this is an old car you should have no trouble finding all the parts you need. There is a pretty good aftermarket for most British sportscars.
 
This is a very simple engine and a good one for your first job. Be sure to find a reliable machine shop to assist you and don't "cheap out" on any internal engine parts.

#395 of 401 My ABS light won't go off - Buick Regal by mary_smith

Feb 27, 2010 (11:48 pm)

I left my Buick Regal parked for 3 months and when I started driving it again, the ABS light was on so I had the brakes replaced. Now it comes on sometimes, sometimes it doesn't. Any suggestions on what else I could try cheaply to solve the problem?

#396 of 401 Re: My ABS light won't go off - Buick Regal [mary_smith] by bolivar

Feb 28, 2010 (1:54 am)

Replying to: mary_smith (Feb 27, 2010 11:48 pm)
For sure I would not take it back to the mechanic that replaced your brakes.
 
ABS light very seldom (or every) should have anything to do with needing brakes.

#397 of 401 Re: My ABS light won't go off - Buick Regal [mary_smith] by kiawah

Feb 28, 2010 (3:43 am)

Replying to: mary_smith (Feb 27, 2010 11:48 pm)
The ABS system, has sensors on each of the wheels, which detects individual wheel speed. I guess a good analogy would be for you to picture a bicycle sprocket. As you turn the pedals, a sprocket turns that has teeth. A sensor picks up the metal teeth going by, and from that knows how fast the sprocket is turning.
 
There are a number of things that are checked by the ABS system that could turn on the ABS error light, but one of the common things is when the computer detects that it isn't receiving the signal from one of the sensors. One of the things you could check, is whether each of the sensors looked like it is mounted correctly, and the connectors are tight.
 
A dealership can check those (and the rest of the ABS system) by hooking up a service computer to the vehicle computer......and testing each of the ABS system compenents. You should really consider having the dealership properly diagnose the problem, as opposed to randomly replacing brake parts.

#398 of 401 Re: My ABS light won't go off - Buick Regal [kiawah] by mary_smith

Feb 28, 2010 (9:44 pm)

Replying to: kiawah (Feb 28, 2010 3:43 am)
Thanks for your great analogy! With what you have told me and the information I found at the ABS page on the freeautomechanic.com website, I think I understand now. I was beginning to think that ABS might mean something besides anti-lock brake system. It just seems weird to me that sometimes I can drive it for a few days without the light being on and then for several days it just stays lit. Almost makes me wonder if it should be lit all the time and it might just be a loose bulb that makes it go off on occasion. I think I will take it to the dealership to see what they say. I haven't noticed any problems at all with my brakes whether the light is on or not but since I have young daughters who ride around with me, I want to be sure they are safe.

#400 of 401 got a code reader? by steve_ HOST

Feb 29, 2012 (4:08 pm)

A reporter is looking to hear from consumers who own a "code reader" - either an app or an appliance that allows the user to tap into his/her car's diagnostic system to understand why the Check Engine light etc is on, and perhaps shut it off. If you have used one of these apps or systems and are willing to share your story with a reporter, please email PRedmunds.com no later than Monday, March 5, 2012 with your daytime contact information.

Messages Page 41 of 41

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