Last post on Nov 08, 2013 at 3:09 PM
You are in the Prices Paid - Buying & Leasing Experiences
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Hyundai Sonata, Sedan
#8563 of 8898 Re: 2013 Hyundai Sonata Limited w/ Premium Package [cski]
Nov 13, 2012 (3:50 pm)
add that GAP coverage on your auto insurance policy, its a fraction of that $1500. You should be able to cancel the GAP coverage since you just purchased but the dealer might fight you on this one. Also lojack is a waste of money imo for a sonata. actually lojack imo is a total waste period. most police dept due to budget cuts dont even have the system in their patrol cars and large departments that do have higher priority crime than stolen vehicles. add to that all new cars have engine immobilizer anti theft systems built in and new cars are very difficult to steal.
Nov 14, 2012 (2:42 pm)
I am looking to purchase a Hyundai Sonata Limited MSRP 31,600. I offered a dealer 28k all inckusive, they are telling me 29 is the best they can do even with all the incentives...
Should I stand my ground???
#8566 of 8898 Re: looking to buy [tarabella99]
Nov 14, 2012 (2:53 pm)
You should have offered less; something around $26500.
Call other dealers on the phone .
Don't go to the dealer till you negotiate on the phone.
Also end of month gives you more advantage.
Say no to doc fees too.
You can do it.
#8567 of 8898 Re: looking to buy [tarabella99]
Nov 14, 2012 (7:02 pm)
PLEASE do not pay that much. I posted a couple of pages back for my 13 sonata limited with tech package OTD 25,700 with recent grad and Hyundai Motor financing rebate so 27,100 if you dont qualify for anything. The invoice is 28,100 so if you pay the price they are quoting you, they are making a TON of money off you. Do not pay anything above the low 27k if you do not qualify for anything.
Call every single dealer 100 miles from you should be like 6 or 7 depending on where you live. Go to about 2 or 3 the ones you like and are in the business to make a deal sooner rather than later.
Good Luck - I love the car and is beautiful inside and out -
BUT the gas mileage im average 23 to 28 city and highway mixed so be prepared for this. Its a huge car and 18.5 gallon tank so its heavy. Overall, great purchase!!!
#8568 of 8898 Re: looking to buy [saz25]
Nov 15, 2012 (3:27 pm)
Hey Steve (and any others with experience in the matter), have you ever negotiated with a trade-in? If so, what do you think is the best strategy? I've heard it said negotiate your best price then add the trade-in into the mix after that has been agreed. I have a lease that is going back and was thinking if it had any trade in value, that'd sure be great, but even if they just took it off my hands, that would be like a trade in of the cost of the disposition fee and any potential damage charges the dealership would try to tack on.
Also, the car is due back before the end of the month, but I was considering extending the lease in order to be able to make a deal on the last day of the month as it appears that's your best opportunity for getting a good deal. What are your thoughts on this?
Any direction or help is much appreciated.
#8569 of 8898 Re: looking to buy [thetriplei]
Nov 15, 2012 (4:13 pm)
I usually sell my cars myself instead of trading it in. Having said that, a couple of times I have traded it in to the dealer. But only after negotiating the new car price first. When I start to negotiate the new car price, when they ask if there is a trade in, I say No.
After we come to an agreement on the new car price, I then say, "How about give me a price on the trade in". I do my research first to determine what is a fair price.
Then you can weigh the pros and cons of their price compared to the true price you think you can get privately. When I did actually trade in the car, the price we agreed on was close enough to what it should be, so I did it. Most times, they low ball you, so I just say No to the trade and just buy the new car. I've sold many cars over the years on craigslist.
I've never leased a car, so I really can't suggest how to handle that.
Hope this helps.
Nov 15, 2012 (11:38 pm)
I did some research and found out the following info:
Factory Invoice: $19952
Dealer Holdback (3%): - $599
Manf to Dealer Incentive: - $1500 (min); Is this $1500-$2000 ?
TRUE DEALER COST: $17853
True Dealer cost: $17853
Dealer fair profit: $714 (3%). It can be 3-5%. Max 5%.
TOTAL FAIR PROFIT NEW CAR OFFER: $18567.
Plus Destination fee + Tax, Title, License fees + State tax/fees.
Minus $1000 HM Finance Cash back; $500 Loyal Customer Offer; $400 Recent Grad. I hope all three offers can be combined.
I have requested quotes from a number of online websites. Looking forward to hear from few dealers with their offers.
Does $18567 sound right ? It appears that one can avoid documentation fee, right ? Any comments ? TIA.
#8571 of 8898 Re: 2012 Sonata GLS AT [unlv_rebels]
Nov 16, 2012 (9:15 am)
I wouldn't worry about "dealer fair profit". Really I never do.
They have so many ways to make money even after the sale such as end of month bonus, end of quarter bonus, other manufacturer to dealer incentives that the public never knows about.
Also, I never ask the sales rep for a quote. I tell them what I want to pay. They can counter-offer, of course. Then you decide if their offer is close enough.
Starting with $17,853, I like to deal in nice round numbers. I would offer $18,000 even !
Don't tell the dealer how you arrived at that number.
Say that you will buy now if they meet your price and that you will call other dealers.
As for doc fee, I always fight it. I have successfully bought cars with either $0 doc fee or a 50% reduced doc fee. If they say that the doc fee is printed on the sales order form, just tell them to reduce your agreed upon price by the amount of the doc fee. I've done that twice. You gotta be assertive with these people.
#8572 of 8898 Re: 2013 Hyundai Sonata Limited w/ Premium Package [saz25]
Nov 16, 2012 (5:27 pm)
As a sales representative I have dealt with your type many times. Never do i squirm, and I will not go get my SM if your attitude is crap and you think you should get a brand new car and the dealer give up holdback. The dealer does pay the invoice price on a new vehicle when it is shipped to them (or bank). When the car sells the dealer then sends in a claim for holdback. There are costs to having all those cars in stock such as inventory tax, interest on inventory, clean up crew, advertising, commissions, LOCAL CHARITIES,office clerks. I find it interesting you have no issue paying the title fee that goes to the state but say hell no to a document fee. Unless the car has been in stock for over a year, or is a demo there is no way I will ever bring a offer like that to my SM. At that price I already know it is a $100 flat commission and likely a bad CSI score, and if you are out of town I will not get your service business or referrals. There is no upside for me or the dealer just to sell a car. There used to be a couple smaller dealers in my area that cant afford to lose money on a deal and YES that is what happens when they give up holdback. They are no longer in business. They had the best service and reputation but locals would go 20 miles to save $500 bucks. It is sad you dont attempt to see what paying a little extra to by near you might be paying for. After all it is about VALUE in the end.