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Sedans Hyundai Sonata Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair
3016 messages, Last post on Nov 10, 2009 at 3:03 PM
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Replying to: tomw6 (Nov 01, 2009 9:19 pm) |
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Replying to: tomw6 (Nov 01, 2009 9:19 pm) Some vibration when the gas is applied could be due to the engine lugging. Below 1200, the car could have already slipped into 1st so no problem. Above 1500, the car might have enough oomph to accelerate smoothly even if in a higher gear. One thing you could try is use the manual shift mode to deliberately put the car into different gears and see what happens. For example, put the car into 1st and get the revs around 1200 and see if it shakes when you accelerate. Or put it into 4th or 5th and get the revs to 1200-1500 and see what happens. You should also ask to drive another 2009 or 2010 V6 Sonata from the dealer's lot, with a service tech with you, and see if it exhibits the same symptoms as your car. |
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Replying to: tomw6 (Nov 01, 2009 9:19 pm) Do you have a true manual transmission? If so, it's a quick fix - make sure you match the gear you shift into with the speed you're coasting. That will avoid lugging the engine. Also, make sure you don't ride your clutch. If you have an automatic transmission, are you putting the car in neutral when you’re coasting then dropping it back into "Drive" when you need to accelerate? If you’re doing that, I would recommend stopping. That puts a lot of strain on your engine. If you are using the shiftronic faux-manual transmission, you may not be shifting properly. This, too, will cause lugging of the engine if not done properly. If you’re coasting, I’m guessing you’re on the highway. If so, you should probably just put the car in “Drive” and skip the faux-manual in the highway. You’re not saving any gas when driving at highway speed using the faux-manual. Furthermore, lugging the engine at highway speed will cause a lot of strain on your transmission and that will cause major problems down the road. The dealer may not have noticed the lugging because they didn’t drive it using the faux-manual like you do, and they just put it in “Drive”. Personally, I think the faux-manual can be beneficial in the city, but you might want to stick to “Drive” on the highway (assuming you’re using it on the highway). |
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| The manual calls for fuel filter replacement at 38k. But where is it and how do you change it. Every parts store I called said the filter is NON servicable. What is the scoop here? Does it need to be replaced or not? | |
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Replying to: woodchuck4 (Nov 08, 2009 4:43 pm) |
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Replying to: woodchuck4 (Nov 08, 2009 4:43 pm)
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Replying to: tomk17 (Nov 09, 2009 7:24 am) |
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Replying to: woodchuck4 (Nov 08, 2009 4:43 pm) The fuel filter is very important. However, the time to change it has varied from different cars I have owned. When I was a teenager, I had a '95 Ford Escort which advised changing it every 50k. More recently, I had a '95 Honda Accord which advised changing it every 35k. I'm not sure why there is a large difference in the length of time. Bottom line: you need to change it. When you change it is up to you. Just know that the longer you go, the more of a gamble it is.
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Replying to: james1982 (Nov 09, 2009 2:31 pm) |
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Replying to: james1982 (Nov 09, 2009 2:31 pm)
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