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Sedans Hyundai Sonata Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair
3016 messages, Last post on Nov 10, 2009 at 3:03 PM
You are in the Hyundai Sonata Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: crogers1 (Oct 27, 2009 9:36 am) The labor rate is good though---but what they're doing is jacking up the price of the parts to make up for it, seems to me. You can get Monroe shocks for $90 a PAIR. |
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Recently I discovered that my 2004 Sonata has brakes, air filter, and other parts that were found in the 2003 model. The 2004 parts do not fit my car. Is this unusual?
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Replying to: jnichols1 (Oct 28, 2009 2:29 pm) I wouldn't doubt that a 2003 part is identical with a 2004 or 2005 part unless it's VERY specific to the car. However, that's not totally answering your question... of more import, 2005 MY Sonatas (while being a short model year) were available almost until the intro of the 2007 MY Sonatas; Hyundai normally has a signifcant number of cars at the end of each MY that last well into the sales period of the following MY (and during the 2005-2006 switch, it was even more so, as the 2006s were (at least some) manufactured in the US, and thus quickly brought from factory to dealership, while 2005 MY and previous were manufactured solely in Korea, necessitating the proverbial slow boat from China, er, Korea. In addition, it was an overlap of production that year (both being manufactured simulataineously for a month or so, depending on which plant), so new previous MY cars could show up during the current MY sales period. I believe that (though to a lesser extent) until the current dearth of 2009s caused by CARS, that was very common for Hyundai... and as such, the car could easily be a 2003 that was purchased "late", during the 2004 sales period (say, April 2004, 3/4 of the model year late). It would have looked identical to a 2004, but been substantially less expensive due to the "oh, it's a year older" effect (with so little change between those MYs, that's the only true reason for a difference in price). So, are you going on when the car was purchased, or did you check the VIN to verify that it is, in fact, a 2004 and not a 2003? If so, you may find your 2004 is really a 2003. Also check the rocker panel on the driver's door, and see the manufacture date; that would tell you if it's really a 2003. |
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Replying to: wanna_azzy (Apr 23, 2008 5:35 pm) Fortunately, this is not true. As an electronic designer of automotive electronics, I know that almost all electronic modules must survive both double battery jump and reverse battery connections. This is so by design specification. While I have not specifically designed for Hyundai, I have designed for most of the other manufacturers and know this is the case for (as a mininum) Ford, GM, Chrysler, Toyota, Honda, BMW, and Mercedes. TerryMSU |
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Please help, anyone who can: I have a 2009 Sonata V6 with eight hundred miles on it. Whenever I am "coasting" at 1200-1500 rpm and apply the gas slightly (and sometimes when I don't apply the gas at all) it shakes mildly and feels like it is missing. The shaking varies in strength, but is always there. Below 1200 rpm or above 1500 rpm - no problem. Dealer says this is normal, he can't do anything about it, it will get better as car is broken in. He's had the car a total of 8 days. I just can't see that this is normal for a brand new, quality car. Does anyone have any ideas/advice?
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Replying to: tomw6 (Nov 01, 2009 9:19 pm) |
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Replying to: tomw6 (Nov 01, 2009 9:19 pm) Some vibration when the gas is applied could be due to the engine lugging. Below 1200, the car could have already slipped into 1st so no problem. Above 1500, the car might have enough oomph to accelerate smoothly even if in a higher gear. One thing you could try is use the manual shift mode to deliberately put the car into different gears and see what happens. For example, put the car into 1st and get the revs around 1200 and see if it shakes when you accelerate. Or put it into 4th or 5th and get the revs to 1200-1500 and see what happens. You should also ask to drive another 2009 or 2010 V6 Sonata from the dealer's lot, with a service tech with you, and see if it exhibits the same symptoms as your car. |
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Replying to: tomw6 (Nov 01, 2009 9:19 pm) Do you have a true manual transmission? If so, it's a quick fix - make sure you match the gear you shift into with the speed you're coasting. That will avoid lugging the engine. Also, make sure you don't ride your clutch. If you have an automatic transmission, are you putting the car in neutral when you’re coasting then dropping it back into "Drive" when you need to accelerate? If you’re doing that, I would recommend stopping. That puts a lot of strain on your engine. If you are using the shiftronic faux-manual transmission, you may not be shifting properly. This, too, will cause lugging of the engine if not done properly. If you’re coasting, I’m guessing you’re on the highway. If so, you should probably just put the car in “Drive” and skip the faux-manual in the highway. You’re not saving any gas when driving at highway speed using the faux-manual. Furthermore, lugging the engine at highway speed will cause a lot of strain on your transmission and that will cause major problems down the road. The dealer may not have noticed the lugging because they didn’t drive it using the faux-manual like you do, and they just put it in “Drive”. Personally, I think the faux-manual can be beneficial in the city, but you might want to stick to “Drive” on the highway (assuming you’re using it on the highway). |
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| The manual calls for fuel filter replacement at 38k. But where is it and how do you change it. Every parts store I called said the filter is NON servicable. What is the scoop here? Does it need to be replaced or not? | |
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Replying to: woodchuck4 (Nov 08, 2009 4:43 pm) |
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