Last post on Oct 18, 2006 at 8:35 AM
You are in the Chrysler Sebring
What is this discussion about?
Chrysler Sebring, Convertible, Sedan
#669 of 721 Re: 2004 chryler sebring [sebringkeith]
Aug 15, 2006 (7:43 am)
It seems to be working fine for me. My car had been stalling at first only a couple of times a month. Then it moved to being stalled quite frequently. It would stall all the time. So my fiance' told me to just keep it on full. So over the past 3 weeks every times it gets 3/4 full I just put in 8 dollars to fill it back up. It hasn't stalled on me yet. I am in the procress of talking to Chrysler because we all seem to be having the same problem and I am trying to get them to look into if furthur.
#670 of 721 Re: 2004 chryler sebring [ladybug22_98]
Aug 15, 2006 (12:30 pm)
How ODD is THAT! Well keep in touch! I am going to call MY mechanic and see what HE says about that! PLEASE Keep me informed, as I WILL do the same as soon as I know more!
Keith in Dallas
#671 of 721 Re: Oxygen Sensor on '97 Jxi [jed1967]
Aug 16, 2006 (7:08 pm)
I have a 96 Lxi 2.5 V6 that had the same problem, and it is not too hard to fix. I have 4 O2 sensors. They are all located on the exhaust pipes before catalytic converter. They look like a lipstick holder screwed into a pipe. They usually have 4 wires in a cable. One sensor is between the radiator and front of the engine around the air conditioner pump. Two are under the engine. The last one is the hardest. It is between the engine and the firewall and is pointed up. It was best to get that one from under the car. After doing some internet research, the best advise is replace them all because 3 months from now the other 2 will fail. You can remove and install 3 of them with an open end wrench. The one in the back needs a $10 O2 socket that fits on a ratchet. They are not that bad to install. There are two lengths of cable harness. 2 are short and 2 are long. I liked Napa's short cable ($60 each). Chrysler dealers were the only ones that had long cables that fit (around $100 each). Use anti seize grease on the threads. Tourqe is around 25 ft/lbs.
#672 of 721 Radiator drain plug Dodge truck
Aug 18, 2006 (6:12 am)
I am having a hard time removing the drain plug on my 3500 truck. I think this type of plug is on most newer dodge products, and this is the last year of its design due to problems.... is there a special tool to use or due I just pull it out or drill it... Help, Help, Help.....
#673 of 721 Re: 99 Sebring Cast Aluminum Wheels [steve1947]
Aug 24, 2006 (8:16 am)
My wheels are also cracking and I have not replaced them yet. Did you get new ones from the dealer or just went with new rims? How much do they cost? My dash lights have gone out and I now have a loud popping noise on the right front when I turn. So many problems with this 98 Sebring Convertible Limited Edition. All of the air conditioning components have been replaced twice. Now I have a ticking noise from the engine that goes and comes. Any solutions?
#675 of 721 Re: I hate my Chrysler Sebring but I can't afford a new car! [dmhctt]
Aug 26, 2006 (7:21 pm)
I've got a 2002 LXI Convertible, which is also a piece of junk! There should be a class action suit against Chrysler. I wonder how many known problems are played down by them. I've had warped front break rotors, windows that wouldn't go down together properly when the roof was lowered, iffy climate control, rattle at the right-rear, intermittent/now solid airbag light, all except for the last while under warranty! The dealer suggested and extended warranty!!!!! they also have the gnorskies to run an ad on this page full of complaints! Who are these people?
Aug 27, 2006 (5:41 am)
I recently bought a 2005 Touring, I love the car but I have one problem I have a slight shimmy between 35 and 55, has anyone have this problem or had a problem like this? CONFUSED...... please comment...
#677 of 721 Re: 2001 Sebring LXI sedan, problems with car not turning on all the time? [enfield76]
Aug 27, 2006 (5:54 am)
I had the same problem with my 2001 Sebring LXi Sedan over the summer. It started with the car cranking a long time before starting over the winter, then as the weather warmed (unrelated, I think) it seemed like it might stall when it first caught, but never really died. Had it looked at several times, but 5* dealer could find nothing wrong.
Fast forward to eight weeks ago, and after running several errands without any trouble or threatened stalling, the car just wouldn't start. No turnover, nothing, but all the electronics worked so the battery was fine. Turned out to be a dead fuel pump, and all the issues since the winter were symptoms of it dying. Had the fuel pump replaced (not the cheapest repair) and it's been starting/running perfectly since then.
I'm with you, enfield76. I loved the car when I first got it new in 2001, but while I still enjoy driving it when everything's working, it's given me too much grief and only has 65K miles. The sun roof has leaked, and I've noticed the seal is starting to get loose again. One of the trunk struts keeps popping off its ball joint, and the other is loose and about to do the same. Hubcaps fall off regularly. I have to replace a tie rod coupling at least twice a year. AC/heater fan resistor has been replaced three times. I have a short in the dashboard light switch for the third time. Just had to replace a few clips in the driver side door panel because it was falling off, and even with the new clips, the panel has warped enough that it's still pulling away in the top center. Even though I use a windshield sun shade and open the sun roof about two inches when the weather is hot, the driver side seat leather is cracking. All the plastic door edge guards are long gone, because the glue liquefies in average summer sun. If it can't stand a parking lot for 2-3 hours in a northeastern suburban summer, where COULD it hold over the course of an average year? Iceland???
I'd planned on keeping this car eight years or so when I bought it. No more. It's getting traded for a new Honda Accord in three days. I think the fact that we're keeping a 13-yo Ford Explorer (which doesn't have a stellar reliability reputation itself) and trading in the 2001 Sebring because the Sebring is less reliable and far more expensive to keep on the road says volumes.
#678 of 721 Re: 2004 chryler sebring [ladybug22_98]
Aug 27, 2006 (6:00 am)
See my previous message (#677). I didn't mention it there, but I also had symptoms similar to what you're describing, though it was when first starting the car and pulling it out of its parking spot. For me, it was the fuel pump. If keeping your tank full alleviates the symptoms, it could easily be a pump problem. If you keep the tank full and ignore it too long, you'll end up needing a tow like I did.