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You are in the Speed Shop Tuning and Modification
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Acura Integra, Performance Mods, Engine
Feb 13, 2007 (12:24 pm)
Good to know that only1 and garados are still holding up the fort. Looks like garados has ans IS now? What about you, only1? Get that S2K yet?
As for me, still have the GSR. Am about to hit the 20k mark. No mods yet. But am about to pull the trigger on some TE37's (15x6.5) in gunmetal gray. Was wondering what your suggestions would be for a 195/55/15 all weather tire. Less weight is a priority. Will keep the stock tire/rims (in case I need them for bad weather/long drives/etc) so should I go with a summer tire on the TE's? Have a Tundra for the winter so summer tires on the GSR won't be a hassle for me during the wintertime.
Also, can I eventually upgrade my rotors to a Type-R size? was thinking of Spoon Calipers too, but they only fit Type-R or prelude rotors.
Can you tell I'm trying to shed weight? Thanks in advance...
Feb 13, 2007 (1:05 pm)
Yeah, I have an 03 IS300 and a 93 Miata. I have my 16's up for sale so that I can get a set of 14x7 Team Dynamic wheels for racing ^_^
I'd go with a higher performance tire on the TE's, because you'll have the stockers for long rides and the truck for the winter. Out of all the tires I've been on, the Kumho Ecsta SPT was one of the best tires. I also had a set of AST's by Kumho, and, of course, Falken Azenis. If I had the choice, I'd run a 205/50/15 instead of the 195/55/15, but either way, these tires are the ones I'd recommend.
If you're looking for more braking power and fade resistance, a good set of pads and nice fluid will do you well. On my old gsr, I had Hawk HP+ pads and Valvoline synpower dot3/4 fluid and I intentionally faded them once at the track. I never got them faded on the street, and they lost some performance going down the local mountain, but that was because the pads were almost done and the fluid hadn't been replaced in some time
If you want the Type R brakes, the easiest (not the cheapest) way is to do the hub swap. I think the axles are the same, but I'm not 100% on that one.
If you're looking to get an 11" rotor in there, check this out ...
#1698 of 1734 Re: deryckfm [garados]
Feb 13, 2007 (1:38 pm)
You should flush every 2 months if you are tracking your vehicle. As for brakes, Hawk HP+ are a great street pad with track qualities. As for fluid we always use Hawk Blue fluid great stuff.
Feb 14, 2007 (6:56 am)
garados, thanks for your insights, once again. just curious, how much did your rota's weigh? kumhos were on my shorlist as well, but may end up being my choice too now, after hearing from you. 205's are also being considered as a replacement for the 195 stockers. i may just go down the pad/fluid route instead of the spoon/11" rotor project. was just curious about how complicated a project it would be (11" upgrade). thanks again for your suggestions.
Feb 14, 2007 (9:03 am)
The project doesn't seem to be too difficult ... but I have been fooled before I did a bigger-brake swap on the miata, but everything bolted up fine. You'll have to do some grinding on the brackets to get them to fit correctly. If you take your time, it'll turn out just fine. Remember, measure ten times, check it twice, check it again, and then grind
The Rotas ... they probably tip the scales at about 15-17 lbs/wheel. This is for a 16" wheel, though. A not-so-nice feature about this is that although the mass is more, the mass is also farther away. This increases the moment of inertia, or the resistance to movement, and decreases performance, both accelerating and decelerating. This, however, can be a tradeoff for more rubber on the road.
Feb 18, 2007 (6:54 pm)
Not quite the 11" rotors with ITR calipers ... but close I put my old GSR brakes on my friend's 95 civic cx. It was such a tremendous difference, going from 9.xx inch discs to 10.4 inch discs in front and drums to discs in back. The whole thing wasn't too bad ... Had to replace the knuckles in the front and the entire rear suspension assembly (sans shocks). Rotors were cheapy ones from autozone, with equally cheap pads front and rear. For the amount of time and money spent, it was a tremendous difference. Still need to upgrade the brake master cylinder and the proportioning valve. The BMC needs to be bigger to move more fluid per unit of travel, and the proportioning valve to get correct brake balance for an all-disc setup.
I'm wondering if the 11" brake setup will feel even remotely close to this upgrade
#1702 of 1734 Re: ALL DONE!!! [garados]
Mar 06, 2007 (2:45 pm)
Nice! I 'm jealous!!
Yeah that's my 2nd favorite mod after suspension - the brakes. You can carry much more speed and brake late just before a turn. Makes a big difference and your car is "quicker". The Type-R's rotors are about 1" larger in diameter with bigger calipers. When I bought my GSR and it was new I thought it had decent braking. Then a few days later I took my brother's Type-R for a drive which was only about 1yr old, and I when I hit the brakes I almost went through the windshield. I was amazed, big difference.
I don't have any complains about the Hawk HP+ pads though with cold braking unless it's <50deg. out. During the spring and summer I think they have a pretty good initial cold bite, better than I expected anyway, but they warm up very fast. I took the GSR out for a drive over the weekend. Outside temps were in the low-mid 30's. When I first hit the brakes the car barely slowed down the first 1/2sec. but after that they were ok. Yes you have to be careful in cold weather and keep your distance when braking for the first time after leaving your house. The grab pretty good after that though. Afterall they 're more of a race pad than a street pad. So did you get the brace installed too? Was the "new" sub-frame OEM? Did that cost you an arm and a leg or was it from a junk yard?
#1703 of 1734 Re: deryckfm [paisan]
Mar 06, 2007 (2:51 pm)
Paisan: Do you mean ATE Blue brake fluid? I didn't know Hawk made brake fluid but I 've been out of the forums for a year so anything is possible.
#1704 of 1734 Re: deryckfm [garados]
Mar 06, 2007 (3:24 pm)
Hey Deryck, long time!
Nah I haven't bought an S2K yet. Things are uncertain at work with all the offshoring going on, so I 've been holding off. I only auto-xed 4-5 times last year because I was working almost every weekend so that car would have been sitting there most of the time. I 'm glad I didn't get it last summer. Maybe this summer if I get the guts to do it
I know a couple of people that installed Type-R brakes on their Integras. They said it wasn't complicated at all.
I do know this: The control arms and knuckles are identical in GSR and Type-R but I 'm not sure about the axles. I think you would need NEW hubs because of the 5-lug pattern. The Type-R rotor needs to go onto that hub.
Axles also cost $300-400 each.
I don't think you would need new axles because they probably wouldn't fit in the GSR tranny. You would need an Type-R tranny.
I know the steering rack as well as the suspension geometry in the front of the ITR is the same as GSR.
In any case I wouldn't do it because it would add weight to your car and you said you wanted to reduce weight. With Hawk HP+ pads, SS braided lines, and a good brake flush & refill, your GSR will stop as good as a Type-R with stock pads, etc. You must get the SS brake lines though. They make a noticeable difference. You put those on when you bleed the brakes. Very easy upgrade.