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Cadillac Escalade Maintenance and Repair

223 messages, Last post on Nov 02, 2009 at 1:51 PM
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I just bought an 02 Escalade AWD 6.0 with 60,000 miles, and every time I try to start the SUV, ill turn on the switch and it would just sound like it wants to turn on but it doesn't, it sounds like if it was out of gas, so I let the key go and then I try it again and it turns on fine, it does this most of the times, however there is times (rarely) that turns on right away. I did not notice this when I bought it and when i noticed I thought I was just getting used to the truck, and since I bought it from a private party it has no warranty. has anybody had any similar problems and did you gets yours fix? or any suggestions on what it is?
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Replying to: frausto (Jul 17, 2008 1:25 am) The fuel system runs on about 40 psi of pressure (there's a little shredder valve (like the one on your wheels) on top of the engine (it has a little black cap on it) that you can hook a gage up to and see what your fuel pressure is, should be 40-45 even when not running) It works like this... there's a supply line and a return line from the fuel tank. The fuel pump is inside the gas tank(electric) it sucks fuel and send's it to each individual injector, the engine burns some of the fuel and the excess get's send back to the tank. This is done so you'll always have more fuel than you need. It's kind of a "closed loop" if you will. The fuel travels from the low tank to the high injectors. Vacuum and pressure keep the fuel "at the ready" at the injectors so when you turn the key you have immediate on demand fuel. OK so what may be happening is that you're losing your prime which is your immediate fuel supply. This means that the gas, through gravity, went back to the tank. This is caused by either a faulty injector or a leak in the system somewhere. It can also be a partially clogged fuel filter or the fuel pump going out. The reason sometimes it works may be that you start the car before the fuel has had a chance to leak back to the tank in it's entirety. For example if you shut the car off, wait a few minutes then try it again it will probably start. The way to check this is by connecting a fuel pressure gauge to the shredder valve on the fuel rack when the car has been off for a while. Start by checking the pressure, if no pressure you'll probably have to take it somewhere to get it fixed as there's too many things that could be the cause. If you have pressure of some kind, replace the fuel filter, it's an inexpensive fix. It's probably not it but with 60K miles it probably needs replacing anyway. The next thing I would check is the resistance to the fuel pump as a faulty fuel pump is the most logical cause. Fuel pumps go out all the time specially when people make a habit of running their cars on empty since it needs to be completely submerged in fuel for proper lubrication. If it's neither of these things don't panic. Replacing this two items while troublesome is not that pricy and should be done anyway. When a fuel pump goes out, it doesn't care if you're on the freeway of going to church it just goes out and you're stranded. These may be symptoms, the pump may be trying to tell you that it's about to go. Besides a loss of prime in the fuel system, it could also be that the pump is not pressurising the system sufficiently to overcome the spring pressure on the injector until it's running for a few seconds. Replace the filter and the pump. If the problem persist you'll have to take it to a mechanic, but at least you'll have those two items new in your car... oh yeah, don't buy the cheapest pump either, buy the complete bolt on setup. More expensive but you don't want to be doing this again in a year since you have to lower your fuel tank to gain access. good luck, JR |
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I am very frustrated. I recently bought an 05 with 46000 miles. after my purchase I drove home and on the way the oil pressure needle gradually dropped to 0 and then the pressure light came on. It was towed to the dealer and the oil pressure sender was replaced. after I picked it up, drove home again and on the way the same thing happened. Towed to the dealer again and the oil pressure switch was replaced. Picked it up again and the same thing happened again. The cadillac dealer is at a loss and my car has been with the dealer 23 our of the 25 days that I havve owned it. Could there be another not so obvious problem as to why the gauge will start off fine and then gradually lower to zero when there is enough oil and pressure in the vehicle and no oil leaks. i think the gauge is bad, but i thought that would be an obvious thing to look at. Help!!!!!
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Replying to: cjordie (Jul 22, 2008 3:49 pm) You could have low oil pressure due to a plugged oil pump screen, loose oil pump pickup tube, or a faulty oil pump. By all means have SOMEBODY determine actual oil pressure. You don't want to be driving on low oil pressure.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 22, 2008 5:40 pm) The dealer called me today and stated that they have checked the oil pressure and pump etc, and there are no issues there. They beleive it to be something electrical which is causing the gauge to fall and the low oil pressure light to come on. Does anyone have any thoughts about this. Help:(
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Replying to: cjordie (Jul 23, 2008 4:18 pm)
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Replying to: vajohn (Jul 27, 2008 6:07 pm) The mechanic is very adament about it not being the the gauge cluster. Vajon was your oil gauge causing you the exact same problems and if so how long was it before the gauge cluster was found to be the culprit?
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Replying to: tom19382 (Jun 02, 2008 4:30 pm) |
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Replying to: cjordie (Jul 28, 2008 5:29 pm) I don't know how to feel at this point. The dealer keeps ensuring me that they will find the problem and then laughed and said look at things on the other side....if the motor has a problem and they can not find it once it is taken apart, then cadillac will be sending a new motor and at least i will be the only driver on that motor. I am so frustrated:(
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Replying to: cjordie (Jul 29, 2008 7:39 pm) Makes no sense. Let's be rational here: either it's actual low oil pressure in the engine or it's an electrical/gauge issue. One or the other. Either the reading is "true" or it is false. If true, tear down engine If false, tear apart gauge system
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