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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

6928 messages,  Last post on May 13, 2013 at 7:56 PM

You are in the Honda CR-V Forum.

What is this discussion about? Honda CR-V, SUV

    
 
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Messages Page 688 of 693

#6871 of 6928 Re: instrument panel lense [blueiedgod] by theriver

Jul 29, 2012 (7:56 am)

Replying to: blueiedgod (Jul 18, 2012 9:59 am)
thanks. After reading your post and checking online I decided to have the dealer do it -seems like a lot of work - with coupons/discounts and parts I was able to get it to about 120 dollars (the total parts were about 40 dollars) so in this case I think it was worth it.
 
Unfortunately I just came back from a long trip and the car almost overheated about 600 miles from home. Was able to continue trip, knowing I was not losing any antifreeze - got home no problem and found out that the cooling fan and A/c fan were dead. Over 1000 dollars (non-dealer) but no damage. Absolutely no warning but glad I caught it.
 
onward!

#6872 of 6928 Re: How much for an oil change at the dealer?? [steve_] by gimmestdtranny

Jul 29, 2012 (10:00 am)

Replying to: steve_ (Jun 20, 2012 6:48 pm)
Does any manufacturer still use "break-in" oil?
 
The oil I am referring to had what was believed to be metal cutting abilities (although that term cutting probably sounds too harsh) and I think it was used to help engine break-in in reducing hatch marks etc on cylinder walls, thereby allowing a quicker or more tight ring seal for best compression.
 
Mfrs used to say (still do on some?) if you swapped out that oil too early you were doing yourselves no favor. I have asked this the odd time in the last few years on car and bike forums and I have gotten all sorts of answers, and they contradict. Any expert opinions here?
 
My suspicion is that with today's mfr'ing processes is that they are so precise that this type oil has no purpose any longer.

#6874 of 6928 2004 CRV.. Power loss, missing. PLZ HELP by drivette

Aug 18, 2012 (12:58 am)

I have a 2004 Honda CRV with 120,000 miles. When I start it it will start up with low RPMs like its flooded for about 10 seconds. After that it idles fine. When taking off the car will miss. I have to take off slow or it will miss. When I do get it up to say 65mph it will cruse along fine that it will start missing ( best way to describe it ) when it does this its like it has no power. Then I have to let it decelerate back down to say 40mph before it will accelerate again. Its like the ignition is missing. I didnt change anything yet but made sure there wasnt any loose connections. I had just changed my air filter. I also kinda am thinking the torque converter. What do you guys think?

#6875 of 6928 Busted LCD screen on instrument cluster by roma007

Aug 21, 2012 (12:04 pm)

In the past week noticed the LCD screen between speedometer and tachometer started showing scrambled data. It would alternate between normal and junk data over a few days.
Dealer wants 725+tax for replacing the whole instrument cluster. Supposedly the screen is part of a whole unit there.
 
Has anyone else had this issue? My car is 2007 with just 35k miles on it. Also, had to replace water pump about three weeks ago. Honda was gracious enough to reimburse that expense even though powertrain warranty expired back in December. I am starting to wonder about the "Hey it is a Honda" reliability claim.
 
Regards.

#6876 of 6928 Re: 2004 CRV.. Power loss, missing. PLZ HELP [drivette] by pumpkinslinger

Sep 06, 2012 (9:38 am)

Replying to: drivette (Aug 18, 2012 12:58 am)
Have you checked your catalytic converter? I had similar problems on another vehicle and the converter was plugged up.

#6877 of 6928 Crv awd maintenence and road noise. by jr1

Sep 26, 2012 (5:40 pm)

How much more maintenance for awd vs fwd vehicle.... with CRV..
Also, the road noise issue .......anyone drove '12 model and is it quite. Do not believe in inuring ones ears to unnecessary sounds when trying to listen to a radio of had a chat with passengers.

#6878 of 6928 CRV Black Death by mobee

Oct 02, 2012 (6:56 pm)

Replying to: blueiedgod (Jul 18, 2012 10:04 am)
Hey Blue- I just thought I would report back to you. After all the harassing and insulting you did regarding my '03 CRV and my problems - Despite your ultimate wisdom declaring my lawsuit idiotic and wasteful, I received my check recently recovering all of my costs. Mine was combined into the class with others and because of me and others like me CRV owners throughout the US received at least a great portion of the undue expenses caused by Honda's embarrassing handling of the CRV issues.
 
Goodbye and good riddance Honda! You will never get my money again.

#6879 of 6928 2004 CR-V Slow Engine Cranking by tompar

Nov 22, 2012 (7:41 am)

My CR-V has 170K miles and is very well maintained by myself. This fall I've started to have a problem with SLOW ENGINE CRANKING which sounds exactly like a bad battery but it is not. Sometimes I get in a it's a very slow start and once, the cranking slowed to a stop. 10 seconds later, turn key and still slow crank, but then it starts. Has happened when engine hot or cold. Other times it starts right up. Installed new plugs for the heck of it. Don't think it's a coil as runs smooth once running.
 
I replaced the battery and have the exact same problem. Alternator good with battery at about 12.6V with engine NOT running and 14.4V with engine running. Had my local mechanic check everything out as well with nothing found. I have checked, removed, and cleaned 3 grounding points on the vehicle as well. Also replaced Neg battery terminal which looked a little ragged. Nothing seems to make a difference.
 
Mechanic suggests installing new starter as next action item - any thoughts? Little or nothing pops up on internet regarding this issue.

#6880 of 6928 Re: 2004 CR-V Slow Engine Cranking [tompar] by gimmestdtranny

Nov 22, 2012 (8:31 am)

Replying to: tompar (Nov 22, 2012 7:41 am)
I have this same issue with mine and it has way fewer miles than yours. New battery seems to make no difference. I was going to suggest to you to replace your neg and positive wires and terminals but sounds like you did the one, but the positive going to the starter is more important as it is a longer run and because of proximity, prone to current-robbing erosion.
 
Your post has helped me with a theory on this problem. I think there are three things that compound into a weakness. The battery is too small with minimum CCA's. The wires are too light a gauge, especially for the length run. The starter motor may be too light in design also..all 3 things indicators of cost-cutting. Along with Ford's paint, transmissions, head gaskets etc and Mazda's rust rust rust, GM's no right to still be in business etc, I will not be buying another Honda. Naturally I have other reasons too for leaving Honda behind (like their denial for poor life-span A/C and auto trans, I am also very unimpressed with the brakes. They are too small, and very prone to corrosion and piston binding which doesn't let the pads wear down evenly which shortens their already short life. And the newer Honda's are even cheaper than our generation. I think we got the last of any Honda generation worth buying.
 
Anyway, if the weather holds, I hope to remove my starter and confirm connections, going to use a heavier gauge on the positive to the battery. Also plan to maybe split the starter if it looks like it will bolt back together without issue, and confirm brushes are in good shape and touching armature evenly, lube the shaft ends and also the throw-out gear shaft.
In the meantime, if you are not into maybe doing all that, when starting, at least make sure your lights, rear defogger and fan (and heated seats if you have them) are all off. That helps, as does a battery warmer and block heater if you live in a really cold region.

Messages Page 688 of 693

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