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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

6451 messages,  Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 2:35 PM

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What is this discussion about? Honda CR-V, SUV

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#6413 of 6451
Passenger window not working by ultra2004
Oct 12, 2009 (11:49 am)
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The passenger window in my 2005 CR-V stopped working a while ago. It keeps the window close, but I can't make it open from any switch. At night after I turn on the head lights, I noticed the lights would dim a little bit when I press the switch to operate any other window, except the passenger window. I thought it was the power regulator. I bought an after-market window regulator, and found it didn't work neither. It seems like it is something else broken. When troubleshooting a power window, what are other places I can look into? I checked the fuse, and it doesn't look like it has blowed up.
 
Thanks.
#6414 of 6451
Re: 1999 crv malfunction light on - can't read codes [lewie1999] by blueiedgod
Oct 13, 2009 (8:53 am)
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Replying to: lewie1999 (Oct 09, 2009 8:53 pm)

I filled my tank last week and drove about 30 miles home where I smelt gas and my malfunction light came on. I removed my fuel cap and made sure it was on tight. I couldn't find any signs of fuel leaks in the engine compartment or fuel tank area. I have driven approx. 400 miles and the light's still on and my fuel milage has dropped a bunch. I have a code reader, but cannot find the plug to connect it. Has anyone any suggestions on this problem or where the code reader plugs into.
Thanks!

 
The OBD II plug on the 1997-2001 may have been installed on the passenger side of the center console. Check with the OWNER's MANUAL.
 
If, when filling, the pump is forced to go past the first shut off point, the flue will flood the evaporative emissions canister (aka charcoal canister). It's job is to collect fuel vapors when the vehicle is just sitting and is building up pressure in the fuel tank from the heat. Then, when the jey is inserted and turned to the "ON" position, the vapors are introduced to the air-fuel mix to make starting easier. However, constant flooding of the canister will eventually fill it up and cause it to malfunction. Or worse, a valve that is designed to control the fuel vapor flow will be soaked in fuel and fail.
 
Check the codes, and if the code is for Evaporative Emissions Control, then it is most likely the canister, and it will need to be replaced.
#6415 of 6451
Re: Passenger window not working [ultra2004] by blueiedgod
Oct 13, 2009 (8:56 am)
Reply

Replying to: ultra2004 (Oct 12, 2009 11:49 am)

The passenger window in my 2005 CR-V stopped working a while ago. It keeps the window close, but I can't make it open from any switch. At night after I turn on the head lights, I noticed the lights would dim a little bit when I press the switch to operate any other window, except the passenger window. I thought it was the power regulator. I bought an after-market window regulator, and found it didn't work neither. It seems like it is something else broken. When troubleshooting a power window, what are other places I can look into? I checked the fuse, and it doesn't look like it has blowed up.
 
Check the voltage at the offending refulator.
 
See if there is any corrosion, or an object preventing the window from moving in its tracks.
 
It could be as simple as a failed switch, or broken wire.
 
Good luck.
 
P.S. If you are going to be doing the work on the car you may want to invest in the official Honda Shop Manual. The order form should be in the back of the OWNER's MANUAL, or online at www.helminc.com They are not cheap, but well worth their weight in gold and saved time.
#6416 of 6451
Re: first oil change [lori56] by carattorney
Oct 13, 2009 (9:03 pm)
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Replying to: lori56 (Sep 08, 2009 2:53 am)

I read your question and the replies.
There is apparently a lot of confusion on the issue of Honda Oil changes.
I just got a 2009 FIT.
The manual states that you should not get a first oil change until the indicator tells you to. The manual also states seperately that the oil change indicator will tell you when to get an oil change--that it determines that based on the type of driving that you are doing.
 
I know that the common thought is that you get an oil change every 3K mile or so, but why would Honda write in 2 places in their manual that you should wait till the indicator tells you to if they did not mean it?
 
Honda's reputation is built on reliabilty and longevity, not replacing engines and cars prematurely. Plus the adverse publicity and harm to reputation and fines for misrepresenting oil change intervals could serverly harm the company. What would they have to gain? If anything--they should tell you have oil changes every 3K miles at the dealer to support their dealer network but they do not.
 
Anyone else have any comments on this topic?
#6417 of 6451
Re: first oil change [carattorney] by lzc
Oct 14, 2009 (6:26 am)
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Replying to: carattorney (Oct 13, 2009 9:03 pm)

No need to add much to what you said. But when it comes to oil changes, the belief that what was true 30 years ago will forever remain true is, apparently, a hard belief to change.
#6418 of 6451
Re: first oil change [lzc] by circlew
Oct 14, 2009 (2:13 pm)
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Replying to: lzc (Oct 14, 2009 6:26 am)

Not too hard for me. I change the oils based on the indicator.
 
Regards,
OW
#6419 of 6451
Re: Rear noises coming and going [cisco7] by wwkdes
Nov 01, 2009 (11:18 am)
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Replying to: cisco7 (Oct 10, 2009 9:17 pm)

I am also noticing my Honda CRV (2007) is also similar noises in the rear bakres. Noises are noticeable when backing up and making slow sharp turns.
 
Curious how was it costs when you had it fixed? I am dreading this.
#6420 of 6451
Re: Rear noises coming and going [wwkdes] by lzc
Nov 02, 2009 (8:10 am)
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Replying to: wwkdes (Nov 01, 2009 11:18 am)

What you describe are symptoms that call for a rear differential service covered under warranty. Honda issued a TSB for the problem. They will change the fluid and refurbish the differential gears.
 
Call you dealer and describe the noises you hear.
#6421 of 6451
Re: Rear noises coming and going [wwkdes] by motoguy128
Nov 02, 2009 (9:21 am)
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Replying to: wwkdes (Nov 01, 2009 11:18 am)

What some folks think is the rear differental may just be the stability contorl applying the rear brakes. In a tight turn, the outside wheels and in particular the front outside wheel turns much faster than the inside wheels. Therefore the stability control may see this as the rear of the vehcile sliding and hterefore applys the brake to the inside rear wheel to correct.
 
Try taking het same turn with eth VSA turned off and see if you still hear hte same sound.
 
I have a brand new '09 and heard a similar noise but it wasn't present with the VSA turned off. I'm have a better feel for how the VSA respondds and the noises it makes thsi winter.
#6422 of 6451
terrysmark7 by terrysmark7
Nov 02, 2009 (5:05 pm)
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There are times when the clutch pedal squeaks. -When I step on the clutch pedal to shift from first to second and/or second to ...when it is cool outside it is worse

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