Last post on Nov 14, 2013 at 1:28 PM
You are in the Honda CR-V
What is this discussion about?
Honda CR-V, SUV
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
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#6375 of 6957 Re: 2003 Honda CRV 4WD [cscalera]
Sep 10, 2009 (9:20 am)
Hi. I am new to the forum and have a question about my husbands CRV. His car failed inspection for emissions. The code was P1166 which apparently is the O2 sensor. I am more than willing to replace it myself since Honda wants a ridiculous amount of money to do it. I know I will need an O2 socket, but my question is this: Is there any way to tell which O2 sensor is bad? There are 2 and I don't want to replace the wrong one. Any help would be appreciated as well as any advice on how to go about the actual replacement. This will be my first ever attempt at auto repair!
I am pretty sure 1166 is the primary O2 sensor. The shop manual should have it listed, or google it.
#6376 of 6957 Re: door lock [1999crv]
Sep 11, 2009 (5:11 am)
I have EXACTLY the same problem. Any suggestions as to a resolution to the problem? Thank you!
#6377 of 6957 Re: Headlight Problem- Low Beams Out [tomk17]
Sep 11, 2009 (6:17 am)
Solved - went to dealer today, the stalk / combo switch (headlights and turn signals) had arched and shorted out. Tech indicated it is a common problem often seen on CIVICs but the first he had seen on a CRV. They have a connector kit for the Civic that fit the CRV. Connector kit need to adapt to new switch. Replaced stalk (combo switch p/n 7743875-35999) for total cost of $240. Stinks but I rarely had a problem with this vehicle so at 125K miles, I'm OK with it.
#6378 of 6957 Instant break-in?
Sep 11, 2009 (9:47 am)
Several recent messages have concerned the proper break-in of engines and oil. I thought you might be interested in what I observed at the Honda assembly plant in Marysville about 15 years ago. After the final inspection for fit and finish, a line of young men waited at the end of the production line. Each would jump into a car and drive it over to an area where the car straddled a pit (occupied by two employees) with its drive wheels resting on rotating drums. The driver proceeded to slam through the forward gears, reaching moderately high revs in each. Then the brakes were applied firmly and the process was repeated in reverse gear. Finally, the lights were flashed, the horn blown twice, and the car sped out of the building. I remember thinking, "Well, so much for that easy break-in period I read about in the manual."
The whole process took about 30 seconds, so I don't know what the guys in the pit could accomplish in that time. Maybe they were just there to observe any potential driveline problems. In any event, I hope they had some protection.
Have any of you seen anything similar in other plants or with other manufacturers?
#6379 of 6957 Oil Change Intervals
Sep 11, 2009 (10:16 am)
Recommended Oil Change &
Inspection Intervals Job Aid
Currently Applies To: All Models
With improvements in engine oil and engine design,
American Honda has steadily stretched out its
recommended intervals between oil changes. In the
beginning, there was just one oil change interval:
7.5K. In ’01, the 10K interval was introduced on the
new Civic. And in ’05, the maintenance minder
system came on the scene with the new Odyssey.
To help you keep all of this stuff straight, we’ve
posted the Recommended Oil Change & Inspection
Intervals job aid on ISIS. This handy chart lists all
Honda cars and trucks for the past 10 years and
shows you at a glance what oil change interval
applies for a particular model and model year. For
easy recognition, we’ve even color-coded the
intervals: blue for 7.5K, red for 10K, and green for
#6380 of 6957 Re: first oil change [lzc]
Sep 11, 2009 (6:25 pm)
Why term it a Urban Myth, or mention "Special Break-in Oil?" Honda doesn't. In the Honda Service News of August 2006, page 4, Honda explains, in part:
"Factory-Fill Engine Oil Looks Dark? Its Normal. At PDI, does the engine oil look less like Texas Tea, and more like Oklahoma Crude? Don't worry, there's nothing wrong with the engine. The engine oil looks that way because of molybdenum (that's "moly" for short, a special lubricant applied by the factory to critical engine components during assembly.
When the engine is test-run, that molybdenum mixes with the engine oil, turning it a dark metallic color, often within the first 5 minutes of running.
What is really important to remember here is this: Don't change the factory-fill oil because it is dark; just make sure it's at the right fluid level. To ensure proper engine break-in, the factory-fill engine oil needs to remain in the engine until the first scheduled maintenance interval."
It seems to me some well-meaning folks at this site, with far fewer credentials than Honda engineers, could be misleading other readers.
Personally, I've had excellent results abiding with what Honda recommends - not to be confused with what any Dealer/Stealer recommends.
#6381 of 6957 Re: first oil change [mcdermott]
Sep 12, 2009 (3:58 am)
If "factory-fill engine oil" is the more accurate term than "break-in oil" for what Honda does, that works for me.
And thanks for adding to what others have said about molybdenum being the ingredient that Honda wants circulating in the engine until the first scheduled oil change.
#6382 of 6957 Re: first oil change [lzc]
Sep 12, 2009 (4:41 am)
Talked to my dealership regarding engine break in oil and was told Honda does not use break in oil anymore. No reason given.
#6383 of 6957 Re: first oil change [sr146260211]
Sep 12, 2009 (6:45 am)
Interesting. But when you say "dealership," what does than mean? Are we talking salesperson, parts clerk, or service manager? If the latter, OK. I've heard a lot of bogus stuff over the years that gets labeled "the dealership said."
In any case, my CR-V owner's manual under Break-in Period says: "Do not change the oil until the scheduled maintenance time."
They don't say why they don't want it changed earlier.
#6384 of 6957 Re: Instant break-in? [iamknott]
by kyfdx@Edmunds HOST
Sep 12, 2009 (9:40 am)
They do pretty much the same thing with Z4s at the BMW plant in SC.. (well.. they did.. now, the Z4s are made in Europe).
But, going through gears on a dyno, is a lot different than with a real-life load out on the road... I don't think the purpose is to "break-in" the mechanicals.... nor, do I think that this negates the break-in period specified by the owner's manual.