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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

6449 messages,  Last post on Dec 01, 2009 at 10:04 AM

You are in the Honda CR-V Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Honda CR-V, SUV

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#6260 of 6449
Re: 10,000 mile oil changes [blueiedgod] by steve_ HOST
May 13, 2009 (9:49 am)
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Replying to: blueiedgod (May 13, 2009 8:55 am)

My buddy that sells Amsoil told me that the molecular tails in it break within 3,000 miles too. I think you are just wasting your money putting synthetic in ordinary passenger cars to begin with.
 
I almost got some synthetic the other day though. NAPA was out of 5w30 and the synthetic was on sale for almost as cheap as my usual flavor. But I went to WallyWorld and got a 5 quart jug of SuperTech for under $10.
#6261 of 6449
Re: 10,000 mile oil changes [steve_] by blueiedgod
May 14, 2009 (8:36 am)
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Replying to: steve_ (May 13, 2009 9:49 am)

Remember, synthetic oil does not break down.
  
Au Contraire. Synthetics do break down. But, because the molecule size distribution is more uniform (think of the bell shape distribution and 99% of the molecule sizes are within 0.5% either side of the median. They all break down at the same rate to the same size.
 
My buddy that sells Amsoil told me that the molecular tails in it break within 3,000 miles too. I think you are just wasting your money putting synthetic in ordinary passenger cars to begin with.

 
Didn't I just say that?
The difference is how synthetics breakdown. Lets say that all of the molecules in the oil are 86 monomers long. And you lose a monomer per 200 miles.
 
All of the moluecules in synthetic oil will be 74 monomers long after 100 miles. The oil is still funcitonal.
 
In the dyno oil, some of the molecules are 150 monomers long, and some are 30 molecules long. The short ones will lose 1/3 of their monomers in 1000 miles. After prolonged use, there will be a bunch of cooked up monomers form all the short chains that have disintegrated, and a bunch of now shortened formerly long molecules trying to perform. But, because of the overwhelming number of broken down monomeric species, the long molecules won't perform.
 
Hope my layman's explanation gets to the point.
 
I agree, that if one changes the oil on the regular basis, then dyno will suffice. But, if one were to be more environmentaly concious, and wanted to generate less pollution, and smaller carbon footprint (used oil is one of them) one could use higher quality oil and prolonged service intervals to achieve such goal.
#6262 of 6449
Re: 10,000 mile oil changes [blueiedgod] by steve_ HOST
May 14, 2009 (8:55 am)
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Replying to: blueiedgod (May 14, 2009 8:36 am)

Oil's better than it used to be and my intervals are 7,500 on dead dino. 15,000 mile intervals would be better but I don't drive that many miles a year, so I bump up on the time problem.
 
If all else fails, check the owner's manual.
#6263 of 6449
Re: 10,000 mile oil changes [blueiedgod] by fussycrvowner
May 14, 2009 (12:20 pm)
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Replying to: blueiedgod (May 14, 2009 8:36 am)

Too bad they don't charge a deposit for the used oil like they do in some states for cans and bottles. Recycling is a good alternative to dumping in the back yard and hoping it disappears. What happens to the used oil you take to the parts store anyway?
#6264 of 6449
Re: 10,000 mile oil changes [fussycrvowner] by blueiedgod
May 15, 2009 (8:37 am)
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Replying to: fussycrvowner (May 14, 2009 12:20 pm)

Too bad they don't charge a deposit for the used oil like they do in some states for cans and bottles. Recycling is a good alternative to dumping in the back yard and hoping it disappears. What happens to the used oil you take to the parts store anyway?
 
Someone would have to be really foolish these days to dump the oil in their back yard.
 
A lot of oil changing places use used oil as heating oil in the winter. So, it just gets burned. National chains probably send it to recyclers which clean it up and make it into greases, lubricants, or other grades of oil.
 
Problem with a lot of DIYer is that they would not think twice about mixing the oil with antifreeze or brake fluid and then taking it to the store for recycling.
 
One problem I see with deposits on used oil, is the low-lives stealing oil from cars parked on the streets.
 
I remember a few years back when I lived in the Bronx, there was a rash of catalytic converters being cut off from high sitting vehicles. It was easy for crooks to slide under the car, cut it off with a battery powered cut off tool and be on their way in a matter of minutes. They were selling them to scrap yards.
#6265 of 6449
Re: 10,000 mile oil changes [fussycrvowner] by steve_ HOST
May 15, 2009 (9:26 am)
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Replying to: fussycrvowner (May 14, 2009 12:20 pm)

The county has curbside waste oil pickup here in Boise. I have 5 quarts sitting out right now. The used stuff gets re-refined into base stock for lubricating oil - oil doesn't really wear out. The parts stores and quick lube joints probably sell it.
 
A deposit probably would keep a bunch of it out of the landfills.
#6266 of 6449
Re: 10,000 mile oil changes [blueiedgod] by fussycrvowner
May 15, 2009 (12:07 pm)
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Replying to: blueiedgod (May 15, 2009 8:37 am)

"One problem I see with deposits on used oil, is the low-lives stealing oil from cars parked on the streets"
 
Not to mention all of the service bulletins created addressing excessive oil consumption and missing drain plugs...
#6267 of 6449
2009 PRESSURE by ohbaobei
May 26, 2009 (4:37 pm)
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folks, i have got CRV April 11th.
 
Last week, the tire pressure light is on and i checked manual and tires, found that there is one tire has very low pressure, only 25 psi. i have added air and the light went off. But after two days the light is on again and i checked the air pressure again, it is again 25 psi. So i decided to send the car to dealers and have them checked for me.
 
But it is my first new car and I have no experience to deal with dealer service. I have the manufacture warranty, so does it cover the tire? do i need to pay for this service. As I understand, i should be under factory warranty, am I right?
#6268 of 6449
Re: 2009 PRESSURE by mcdermott
May 26, 2009 (5:03 pm)
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Replying to: ohbaobei (May 26, 2009 4:37 pm)

Your Dealer should offer to re-mount and re-balance the wheel at no cost to you. Dealers in general seem to have no appreciation for the value of other peoples' time. Tell them you cannot afford to keep returning to the Dealer to repair faults that should not have happened to a new vehicle, and you want them to fix the offending wheel immediately.

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