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SUVs Honda CR-V Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair
6444 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 7:39 PM
You are in the Honda CR-V Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
Your Community Leader is varmint.
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Replying to: terryp1 (May 09, 2009 12:37 pm) Yet today's modern oils are vastly improved over those of 20 years ago. For oils that meet the current "SJ" service designation, viscosity breakdown is no longer a significant problem, thanks to modern formulation technologies and viscosity enhancers. Auto manufacturers have also redesigned their engines for tighter clearances and instituted precision machining techniques that take advantage of thinner oil to deliver improved fuel economy through reduced friction. Like the OEMs, racers have discovered that friction reductions plus precision tight clearances yield greater efficiency and more power. Racers also know that most engine wear occurs at start-up, so it's critical that engine parts receive proper lubrication as soon as possible--hence the need for an initially thinner, so-called "winter" viscosity. Today, few racers run a single-viscosity motor oil except nitro-burners. According to 76 Lubricants, most NASCAR teams use the really thin stuff during qualifying, moving up to 20W-50 during the long race (although it's rumored some teams may use the extreme cold-weather thin oils all the time, but don't want to admit to their latest performance "trick"). Synthetic oils, pioneered in the '70s by Mobil and now available from most major oil companies, take the all-season, multiviscosity approach to the outer limits. Unlike traditional mineral oils that are produced by distillation and further refining of existing crude oil stock, synthetic lubricants are made through chemical reactions. These new oils aren't synthetic or artificial in the sense that they're manufactured out of whole cloth--they still have the same natural ingredients found in "real" oil. But in a synthetic lubricant, these ingredients are recombined like a Lego set to yield synthesized-hydrocarbon molecular chains with desirable characteristics and uniformity not found in even the highest-quality traditional motor oils. Typically, the best synthetic oils use a combination of up to three different synthetic base fluids--polyalphaolefin (PAO), synthetic esters, and alkylated aromatics. Because a synthetic oil's molecules are much more consistent in size and shape, they are better able to withstand extreme engine temperatures. By contrast, the unstable molecules in conventional oil can easily vaporize or oxidize in extreme heat. Mobil 1 synthetic is said to be capable of protecting engines "at well over 400 degrees F"; in the real world, most racers have no problem running synthetics up to 290 degrees F under prolonged use, but they get really jumpy when a conventional exceeds 270 degrees F. Because a synthetic oil is chemically produced, there are no contaminants in the oil. By contrast, conventional oils contain small amounts of sulfur, wax, and asphaltic material that can promote detonation as well as varnish and sludge buildup. With no wax, synthetics will flow at much lower temperatures than conventional oils. In fact, synthetic oils are now available with viscosity ratings as low as 0W-30, as in Mobil 1's new Tri-Synthetic blend or Castrol Formula SLX. These oils flow more than seven times faster than a conventional 5W-30 motor oil during initial start-up, yet at normal operating temperatures act like a regular Grade 30 oil. An 0W-30 synthetic oil is capable of pumping easily at -62 degrees F and flowing at even lower temperatures. Conventional oils are essentially frozen solid at that temperature, so there's simply no conventional equivalent to this new grade. There are 5W-30 conventional and synthetic oils, but even here, the synthetic has a real-world advantage: Mobil 1's 5W-30 will pump at -58-degrees F, compared to about -35-degrees F for a conventional oil. Regards, OW
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i just found the new CR-V service manual and share it for people who search for it its Honda CRV service manual 2007 2008 2009 link part1 link part2 link part3 |
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Replying to: circlew (May 10, 2009 10:19 am) Au Contraire. Synthetics do break down. But, because the molecule size distribution is more uniform (think of the bell shape distribution and 99% of the molecule sizes are within 0.5% either side of the median. They all break down at the same rate to the same size. There are no shorter chains that break down faster and longer chains that breakdown to individual molecules longer. shorter chains, once broken down are useless, and become junk inhibiting the still functioning longer chains from performing. Also, not all synthetics are truly synthetic oils with narrow molecule size distribution. Most of the so called synthetics are nothing more than highly purified conventional oils. They are processed through what is called "hydrockracking" or basically steaming. Mobil1(except for Extended Performance), Quaker state, Pennzoil, Castrol Syntec (except for 0W-40 or whichever is made in Germany), Valvoline Synthetic... are all FAUX synthetics. Mobil1 EP, Castrol Syntec (has to say: "Made in Germany"), Royal Purple, Amsoil (don't like their sales tactics) and a few others are still true synthetics. Since there is no price break when buying FAUX synthetics, make sure you buy true synthetic oils. Otherwise you are wasting your money.
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Replying to: blueiedgod (May 13, 2009 8:55 am) I almost got some synthetic the other day though. NAPA was out of 5w30 and the synthetic was on sale for almost as cheap as my usual flavor. But I went to WallyWorld and got a 5 quart jug of SuperTech for under $10.
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Replying to: steve_ (May 13, 2009 9:49 am) Au Contraire. Synthetics do break down. But, because the molecule size distribution is more uniform (think of the bell shape distribution and 99% of the molecule sizes are within 0.5% either side of the median. They all break down at the same rate to the same size. My buddy that sells Amsoil told me that the molecular tails in it break within 3,000 miles too. I think you are just wasting your money putting synthetic in ordinary passenger cars to begin with. Didn't I just say that? The difference is how synthetics breakdown. Lets say that all of the molecules in the oil are 86 monomers long. And you lose a monomer per 200 miles. All of the moluecules in synthetic oil will be 74 monomers long after 100 miles. The oil is still funcitonal. In the dyno oil, some of the molecules are 150 monomers long, and some are 30 molecules long. The short ones will lose 1/3 of their monomers in 1000 miles. After prolonged use, there will be a bunch of cooked up monomers form all the short chains that have disintegrated, and a bunch of now shortened formerly long molecules trying to perform. But, because of the overwhelming number of broken down monomeric species, the long molecules won't perform. Hope my layman's explanation gets to the point. I agree, that if one changes the oil on the regular basis, then dyno will suffice. But, if one were to be more environmentaly concious, and wanted to generate less pollution, and smaller carbon footprint (used oil is one of them) one could use higher quality oil and prolonged service intervals to achieve such goal. |
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Replying to: blueiedgod (May 14, 2009 8:36 am) If all else fails, check the owner's manual. 
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Replying to: blueiedgod (May 14, 2009 8:36 am) 
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Replying to: fussycrvowner (May 14, 2009 12:20 pm) Someone would have to be really foolish these days to dump the oil in their back yard. A lot of oil changing places use used oil as heating oil in the winter. So, it just gets burned. National chains probably send it to recyclers which clean it up and make it into greases, lubricants, or other grades of oil. Problem with a lot of DIYer is that they would not think twice about mixing the oil with antifreeze or brake fluid and then taking it to the store for recycling. One problem I see with deposits on used oil, is the low-lives stealing oil from cars parked on the streets. I remember a few years back when I lived in the Bronx, there was a rash of catalytic converters being cut off from high sitting vehicles. It was easy for crooks to slide under the car, cut it off with a battery powered cut off tool and be on their way in a matter of minutes. They were selling them to scrap yards.
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Replying to: fussycrvowner (May 14, 2009 12:20 pm) A deposit probably would keep a bunch of it out of the landfills. |
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Replying to: blueiedgod (May 15, 2009 8:37 am) Not to mention all of the service bulletins created addressing excessive oil consumption and missing drain plugs... 
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