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SUVs Honda CR-V Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair
6449 messages, Last post on Dec 01, 2009 at 10:04 AM
You are in the Honda CR-V Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
Your Community Leader is varmint.
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Replying to: tomk17 (May 04, 2009 3:17 pm) Is there proof that "thicker is better"? Or is it just a personal preference? |
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Replying to: tomk17 (May 04, 2009 3:17 pm) Aren't you concerned that the switch to 5-30W will void Honda's warranty?
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Replying to: blueiedgod (May 06, 2009 9:03 am) You should always use the thinest possible oil your vehicle's engine will use. I'ts because of the close tolerances in the new motors. The oil needs to get to all parts of the motor immediately upon starting and remain there at full pressure at all times. The only vehicle I've had trouble with is an '01 Camry 4 cylinder. Started using oil at 60,000 miles. Treated it like my child, so it was doubly frustrating. It's got 135,000 now, and I'm going up (45 miles) after class this morning to check and probably add oil. My sister has it now. Cat converter hasn't gone yet, and it doesn't tick or knock. I changed the oil myself on that one, as it was easy enough for a fifth grader to do. But not the first few times. I spent $10 on a raffle ticket two weeks ago. Prize is a CRV EX. Drawing in November. Just checking to see what I could be in for 
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Replying to: trcm (May 06, 2009 2:20 pm) |
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Replying to: blueiedgod (May 06, 2009 9:03 am) And on the viscosity. I switched to 5w-30 early on but switched right back after mentioning it to a top-notch professional mechanic who has the same model CR-V. He says the engine's self-adjusting valves need the 5w-20.
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Replying to: terryp1 (May 09, 2009 12:37 pm)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 09, 2009 1:00 pm) Maybe that's what he meant by "self-adjusting".. 
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http://www.carspace.com/bigdadi118/Albums/bigdadi118%27s%20Album/Honda_Oil_Chart- .jpg/page/photo.html#pic 
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Hi- I just bought a new CR-V EX-L Friday night and overall really like the vehicle. I test drove the vehicle before buying and everything checked out. However, the next day, a rattling noise emerged from the sunroof area, and it doesn't matter whether the sunroof is closed, open, or cracked to "vent". I've pushed on the sunroof slightly and it seems to be very sturdy, so I don't know where the rattling is coming from. Has anyone had similar experiences? I am concerned because the sound is really distracting and not something I could deal with long-term on the car. I hope the dealer can fix it right the first time. Would love to know how it was fixed and if the problem came back. Thanks- Don
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Replying to: terryp1 (May 09, 2009 12:37 pm) Yet today's modern oils are vastly improved over those of 20 years ago. For oils that meet the current "SJ" service designation, viscosity breakdown is no longer a significant problem, thanks to modern formulation technologies and viscosity enhancers. Auto manufacturers have also redesigned their engines for tighter clearances and instituted precision machining techniques that take advantage of thinner oil to deliver improved fuel economy through reduced friction. Like the OEMs, racers have discovered that friction reductions plus precision tight clearances yield greater efficiency and more power. Racers also know that most engine wear occurs at start-up, so it's critical that engine parts receive proper lubrication as soon as possible--hence the need for an initially thinner, so-called "winter" viscosity. Today, few racers run a single-viscosity motor oil except nitro-burners. According to 76 Lubricants, most NASCAR teams use the really thin stuff during qualifying, moving up to 20W-50 during the long race (although it's rumored some teams may use the extreme cold-weather thin oils all the time, but don't want to admit to their latest performance "trick"). Synthetic oils, pioneered in the '70s by Mobil and now available from most major oil companies, take the all-season, multiviscosity approach to the outer limits. Unlike traditional mineral oils that are produced by distillation and further refining of existing crude oil stock, synthetic lubricants are made through chemical reactions. These new oils aren't synthetic or artificial in the sense that they're manufactured out of whole cloth--they still have the same natural ingredients found in "real" oil. But in a synthetic lubricant, these ingredients are recombined like a Lego set to yield synthesized-hydrocarbon molecular chains with desirable characteristics and uniformity not found in even the highest-quality traditional motor oils. Typically, the best synthetic oils use a combination of up to three different synthetic base fluids--polyalphaolefin (PAO), synthetic esters, and alkylated aromatics. Because a synthetic oil's molecules are much more consistent in size and shape, they are better able to withstand extreme engine temperatures. By contrast, the unstable molecules in conventional oil can easily vaporize or oxidize in extreme heat. Mobil 1 synthetic is said to be capable of protecting engines "at well over 400 degrees F"; in the real world, most racers have no problem running synthetics up to 290 degrees F under prolonged use, but they get really jumpy when a conventional exceeds 270 degrees F. Because a synthetic oil is chemically produced, there are no contaminants in the oil. By contrast, conventional oils contain small amounts of sulfur, wax, and asphaltic material that can promote detonation as well as varnish and sludge buildup. With no wax, synthetics will flow at much lower temperatures than conventional oils. In fact, synthetic oils are now available with viscosity ratings as low as 0W-30, as in Mobil 1's new Tri-Synthetic blend or Castrol Formula SLX. These oils flow more than seven times faster than a conventional 5W-30 motor oil during initial start-up, yet at normal operating temperatures act like a regular Grade 30 oil. An 0W-30 synthetic oil is capable of pumping easily at -62 degrees F and flowing at even lower temperatures. Conventional oils are essentially frozen solid at that temperature, so there's simply no conventional equivalent to this new grade. There are 5W-30 conventional and synthetic oils, but even here, the synthetic has a real-world advantage: Mobil 1's 5W-30 will pump at -58-degrees F, compared to about -35-degrees F for a conventional oil. Regards, OW
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