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SUVs Honda CR-V Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair
6449 messages, Last post on Dec 01, 2009 at 10:04 AM
You are in the Honda CR-V Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
Your Community Leader is varmint.
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Replying to: blueiedgod (Apr 29, 2009 8:47 am)
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2003 CRV EX AWD had a noise in the alternator. My college student son had it replaced at Pep Boys while away at school. The battery light then came on (never was on before) but they told him it was the battery. When he came for a visit, I took the car and had it checked at the dealer. Battery, alternator and starter all checked out fine. They had no suggestion other than "after market alternators sometimes do that. Replace it with a Honda alternator." Went to Pep Boys and they said the problem is the light, a Honda problem not a problem with the alternator. I would even prefer someone take out the light as that would do me as much good as the light being on always does (and be far less annoying). Anyone have a suggestion (other than electrical tape over the light, please)? Anyone ever solved this? Thanks.
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Replying to: tomk17 (Apr 29, 2009 10:12 am) Normal and Severe conditions are defined in the OWNER's MANUAL. |
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Replying to: 2003n1998crv (Apr 29, 2009 2:28 pm) Anyone have a suggestion (other than electrical tape over the light, please)? Anyone ever solved this? Ask PepBoys if their alternator cycles on and off electronically like the Honda one does. Chances are that it does not. Honda Alternators, unlike most others, are not on all the time. They charge the battery to 100% and then cycle off until battery is discharged to about 85%. Then cycle on again. One can observe this with a voltmeter while driving. The voltage will cycle between 14.3V (alternator on) and 12.0 V running off battery. this allows the vehicle to be more fuel eficcient by taking the load off the engine, and prolongs the life of the battery by not overcharging it when it does not need to be charged. Since the computer sees alternator on all the time, it alerts the driver that alternator is not performing properly and is probably over charging the battery and will eventually lead to failure of most of the electronics components, including, but not limited to the on board computer. Honda, unlike others, are not cars, they are machines. Check out Honda Azimo if you think you are just driving a car. |
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Lately the wiper blades on my 2003 CRV have been acting up. Under normal setting, they sometimes act like they are on the high setting or even higher. The one my drivers side hits so hard it looks and sounds like it will fly off at any time. At other times it is normal. Is there any type of adjustment or could this be a sign the wiper motor is acting up. Thanks |
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| Our 2007 doesn't get to 15% oil life remaining until 10,000 miles! Did that on the first oil change and again on the next oil change as well. My dealer doesn't have a service manager at the moment but the service advisor assures me that is pretty normal on a CRV that doesn't see a lot of hard and/or city driving. I figured they must use synthetic oil but they tell me it is not. I'm really skeptical about this !! I want this car to run for 300K and don't think such long oil change intervals will get me there. Are there any long term Honda owners out there that have been doing this for a couple hundred thousand miles? | |
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Replying to: sailorboy1 (May 04, 2009 2:46 pm)
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Replying to: tomk17 (May 04, 2009 3:17 pm) Regards, OW |
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Replying to: sailorboy1 (May 04, 2009 2:46 pm) THEN I would use good synthetic oil like Mobile 1 or AMSoil, and a good filter (mobile 1, Purolator Pure-One, AMSoil) every 5000 to 6000 miles. If you said NO to at least two of the conditions above (like me), then I would stick to the usual 3000 mile interval, of course still using quality synthetic oil and a good filter. If you continue to use conventional oil, I would never pass 3 months or 3000 miles whichever comes first, no matter what the conditions. Anyone with the initiative can perform their own test.... change your oil and filter and check it, paying particular attention to the color and odor. Using a clean white napkin to wipe off the dipstick is a good way. Then repeat checking the color and odor weekly until the oil begins to get dark, and/or starts smelling like varnish. That is when you should change it, and the number of miles you have on it at that time should be your interval. Using less expensive oil and fram filters, mine was getting bad at way less than 3000 miles. I now use only Mobile 1 Extended performance oil and Pure One filters, and I could go to maybe 3500 or 4000 miles, but I don't. 3000 is my limit. |
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Replying to: dagwood2 (May 04, 2009 5:17 pm) The Dark Oil Myth Are oil changes every 3,000 miles really needed? I use dead dino in my minivan and have pushed the usual recommended 7,500 interval out to 11,000 miles at least once. It's a '99 and ~133,000 miles on it. Oil's a lot better than it used to be. If you really want to know what shape your oil is in, pay the $20 for an analysis. |
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