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SUVs Honda CR-V Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair
6449 messages, Last post on Dec 01, 2009 at 10:04 AM
You are in the Honda CR-V Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
Your Community Leader is varmint.
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Replying to: tabcourt (Dec 24, 2007 7:04 pm) I pulled out my multi-tester and found voltage on both hot wires at the connector, so I'm stumped. Did you find any info, here or elsewhere? I guess I forgot to mention that when I found voltage where it should be, I replaced both bulbs with no effect. |
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After much searching I have found only one other post indicating the same problem and it had no replies, So.... I have a friend with a 2004? CRV. She has no low beams, high beams work fine. Expecting it to be a simple diagnosis, I checked all fuses and found two (left/right) in the Engine compartment, both good, also two relays right next to the fuses, also good. Pulled out my multi-tester and measured voltage on both power leads. Decided it must be the bulbs since I have voltage at the connector, so I replaced them, and the Low Beams are still out.  Anyone have a similar problem, and hopefully a solution? Of course I did not realize this new post would end up right next to my reply to the other post, but oh, well.
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Replying to: skanathur (Feb 06, 2009 8:55 pm) |
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Replying to: dagwood2 (Feb 11, 2009 5:18 pm) 
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See my post a while back. Same thing happened to me on my 04. One night the low beams went out - same night!!! High beams fine. I found out there were two fuses, one for each so I figured it was not the fuses. Changed both bulbs and they have worked fine for weeks. Perhaps you put in the wrong bulbs or some how broke them as you were putting them in. You cannot touch the bulbs with your hands - use latex gloves and change them often (gets very dirty) and the frst time doing it can be tricky. Also check the connection to the bulb and make sure it is actually fully in. Finally make sure hte bulb is seated correctly. Not a big deal but can be tough the first time. |
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Replying to: Salsaboy (Jan 29, 2009 7:31 am) As far as getting the Crank Pulley Nut off, an impact gun will usually do the trick if you can get it in the space, and in a pinch, I have even seen people (and done personally) use the starter to provide the torque. You need a place where the wrench/ratchet is obstructed (in the right direction). You place the tool on the nut/bolt and rotate it until it meets the obstruction, then give the starter a tap. Obviously you want to make sure to disconnect the ignition so it does not actually start. |
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Replying to: fussycrvowner (Feb 12, 2009 11:17 am) Oddly enough, based on the diagram, I should not have had positive voltage on either wire because honda seems to have wired them the opposite of most I've seen before. The "Hot" wire is the middle wire of the connector, and the left/right wires of the connector go to ground through the switch on the column. Of course, that confuses things even more, and I'm not 100% sure that the book is correct. I'll have to get over and take another look at it with this new information, and see if I can make sense out of it. |
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My wife's cr-v is a 2001 front wheel drive ex model. We decided it was time for some maintenance/tune up on the car. Keep in mind I've worked in the repair field years ago and have done a couple frame up restorations on older cars. So replacing plugs, no problem right? Sooo i change the plugs with double platinum plugs. Two days later my wife calls and says the car is stuttering while the brakes are depressed. I change the wires cap and rotor. no improvement. Actually the symptoms get worse. Now the car is vibrating while in park and foot off the brake. I plug in the scanner and of course all I can get is a generic code. Misfire on the #4, #3,and random misfire codes. I then go for the fuel filter (110,000miles). Nothing. I performed vacuum test with a compound meter. The test came back negative for weak vacuum,sticking valves,intake leaks,blown head gasket/low compression. With 17 lbs of pressure all is good . I tested the timing and timing is dead nuts. Checked the fuel injectors for resistance and averaged 14.5 ohms per injector. Tested the injector harness es with a noid light all are receiving a signal. I opted to replace the fuel regulator with no success. So back to the Ignition system I go. Tested the coil and the resistance was off. So I replaced it and, nada. tested the ICM and that seems fine. All though the no codes came up for the charging system I tested the battery and replaced it. When I rev the engine up to 4000rpm and hold it there the check engine light goes out. So any suggestions would help here. I just can't understand how adding four new plugs has sent me into this nightmare. Oh yeah I also went back and changed the plugs to the oem style plugs. Thanks ms2112
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Replying to: ms2112 (Feb 21, 2009 9:38 pm) |
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I am trying to remove the passenger side headlight assembly...there are 2 obvious screws on top but there is something else holding it in....do I have to remove some plastic cover shrouds to get to whatever it is.
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