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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

6448 messages,  Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 11:06 PM

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What is this discussion about? Honda CR-V, SUV

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#6111 of 6448
Front End Shudder/Vibration by tbtbd5
Feb 03, 2009 (7:09 pm)
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My 2000 CRV has a shudder / vibration that starts while driving steady at about 45 mph. If I let off the gas it stops or accelerate it stops. It only does it at around that speed. I've changed tires , both axles, ball joints, brake pads , rotors even a broken motor mount. Three ASE mechanics have looked at it and they say my front end is tight and it should NOT shudder like it does. It has done this for several years (note all the changed parts for no reason) and nothing seems to fix it.
#6112 of 6448
drive belt/serpentine belt by mimdap
Feb 04, 2009 (1:42 am)
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I have a 2004 CR-V with 45,000 miles. Six months ago I was told I needed to replace the serpentine belt. I did. Now during inspection I'm told I need to replace drive belt. Is that different than serpentine belt? Does it sound reasonable to need to change drive belt after 45,000 miles?
#6113 of 6448
Re: drive belt/serpentine belt [mimdap] by tomk17
Feb 04, 2009 (5:39 am)
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Replying to: mimdap (Feb 04, 2009 1:42 am)

I have an 04 myself. There is only 1 belt on the vehicle, it's technically called the serpentine belt that drives the power steering, AC compressor, etc. I proactively replaced mine in November at 100K miles. I would not say 4 yrs is old for this belt and given that you only have 45K miles I would think you could plan to replace it within a year, no huge rush. Dealer charges $150 and takes about an hour. I don't think a local mechanic can do it for much less, maybe you could save $30 but hardly worth it. There is NO timing belt to be changed on an 04, it's a timing chain which does not need replacement.
#6114 of 6448
Re: drive belt/serpentine belt [mimdap] by blueiedgod
Feb 04, 2009 (9:33 am)
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Replying to: mimdap (Feb 04, 2009 1:42 am)

I have a 2004 CR-V with 45,000 miles. Six months ago I was told I needed to replace the serpentine belt. I did. Now during inspection I'm told I need to replace drive belt. Is that different than serpentine belt? Does it sound reasonable to need to change drive belt after 45,000 miles?
 
If it is the same shop that replaced it last time, RUN FROM THEM LIKE THEY WERE ON FIRE. They are scam artists. Either they did not replace it last time you paid them to do that, or they just lieing about the belt now.
 
Search youtube for hidden videos at Firestone shops, where they don't even touch the parts you pay them to replace.
#6115 of 6448
door lock by 1999crv
Feb 04, 2009 (1:24 pm)
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Hi
I have a beautiful 1999 Honda CRV. I have had no issues but two. My clock no longer works and my automatic door locks don't work on my key fob. Now the weird thing is it is just when its warm. Freezing cold, middle of winter, no problems, I can lock and unlock using the remote. Today however weather is in the mid 60's and nada, nothing...
 
Is this an issue with the fuse or am I going to have to take it to my repair person!
Thanks a bunch
#6116 of 6448
Re: nolaj (first gen. CRV suddenly dies) mcdermott (small screw availability) [defielding] by blueiedgod
Feb 05, 2009 (10:08 am)
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Replying to: defielding (Feb 03, 2009 1:59 pm)

I own 2 '99 CRVs (one with a manual tranny, one with an automatic). Both of them acted like the ignition key was suddenly turned off as I was travelling down the road.at around the same mileage (160,000 km or around 100,000Miles).
 
Have the Ignition switch recall been performed?
#6117 of 6448
Re: Crank Pulley [Salsaboy] by blueiedgod
Feb 05, 2009 (10:11 am)
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Replying to: Salsaboy (Jan 29, 2009 7:31 am)

I have a '96 CRV ( import) auto and i let it freeze up now the water flows out as quickly as i can put it in from the region of the bottom pulley but i can't exactly determine where.
So how can i get the pulley nut undone to check the damage?
The engine rotates anti clockwise and i have tried to pull the nut off clockwise but i need to jam the crank so that i can get some leverage on it.
I do not have any specialist tools so do i need to go to a garage.
Any tips or advice most welcome
Regards, Salsaboy

 
What did you have for coolant? It takes a lot of really cold weather to freeze 50% antifreeze (Honda branded).
 
Ifoyu jus thad water in there, then you most likely broke the water pump. It is driven by the timing belt, and this is why you see drippage under the crank pulley.
 
While you are at it, replacing the water pump, replace the timing belt as well. On the 96 model it was only good for 60,000 miles.
#6118 of 6448
Rusted Part with a square hole on a cylinder part by skanathur
Feb 06, 2009 (8:55 pm)
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Hi,
 
I have a Honda CRV 2002. I was driving at 35 mph and probably a ice block hit the bottom of the car.I see under the Honda CRV when looking from passenger side front door a cylindrical part ( 1 foot in length) which has a square hole and looks rusted. What is this part ?
 
Thanks
 
kanas
#6119 of 6448
Rear Differential fluid replacement by mjb56
Feb 09, 2009 (5:34 pm)
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Have any of you done a fluid change on your CR-V's rear differential? If so, how difficult is it? Any particular tricks other than changing the washer on each drain hole?
#6120 of 6448
Re: Rear Differential fluid replacement [mjb56] by tomk17
Feb 10, 2009 (7:28 am)
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Replying to: mjb56 (Feb 09, 2009 5:34 pm)

Done this twice on my 04 with 110K miles. Not hard at all. Takes a little more that 1 Qt of the dual pump fluid from dealer so get 2 plus 2 of the crush washers. Don't substitute any other type of fluid - there is no better replacement. Honda changed to a dual pump fluid II which is better than before and lasts longer. You also need an item from an auto parts store also, it is a pump top that screws onto a oil quart size bottle (that's what the dual pump fluid comes in). Turns the quart into what's like a big bottle of hand lotion. There is a short tube with it as well. Costs like $5. You need it because you can't tip the bottle enough to fill the differential.
 
A standard 1/4" racket drive fits into the square hole of the fill and drain plugs. It will be tight. Loosen the top (fill) plug first. Hate to drain the fluid then find out that you can't get the fill plug open.
 
Drain the fluid, then hold the hose of the pump thing in the hole and start pumping. Refill till the fluid starts to overflow a bit - you'll know when it's topped off. That's it.

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