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SUVs Honda CR-V Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair
6432 messages, Last post on Nov 07, 2009 at 4:46 PM
You are in the Honda CR-V Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
Your Community Leader is varmint.
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Replying to: terryp1 (Oct 16, 2008 6:26 am) I recall on the slightly older CR-Vs that you looked for two small covers to pry off that go over the tail light mounting screws. Then you pull the tail light assembly off the car. Then you twist out the offending bulb, pop in a new one and there you go. |
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I need to remove the front brake rotors on my 2006 4 WD CR-V. Can anyone please tell me how to remove the rotors from the hub? I can't seem to get them off! If some one can clue me in I"d appreciate it! Dave
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Replying to: cairn60 (Oct 17, 2008 2:26 pm) Remove the wheel caps, wheel nuts, and front wheel. Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolt. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts, and remove the caliper assembly from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force. Raise the stake and move and discard the spindle nut Remove the 6 mm brake disc retaining screws Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts into the brake disc to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Oct 17, 2008 2:37 pm) You will need an impact driver to remove those 2 screws. DON'T EVEN ATTEMPT to remove then with a screw driver. You will ruin them, and will have to drill them out. You can get a very inexpensive hammer driver impact driver from Sears or Harbor Freight for $20. |
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Go the extra and replace the screws while you're at it. A dab of anti-seize compound will make dissassembly easier the next time. 
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| I've jost got my new CRV for three months. The current milage is about 5000 miles. A couple of days ago I started feeling vibration on the steering wheel and the driver's seat. The problem got worse when I reduced speed on highway. Can anyone please give me suggestions on what the problem might be and how to fix it. Really appreciate. | |
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Replying to: pat78 (Oct 24, 2008 8:11 am)
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Replying to: kiawah (Sep 30, 2008 3:20 pm)
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Replying to: washby (Oct 24, 2008 1:22 pm) If you have a V-something (6 or 8 cylinders), then Bank 1 is the V-bank which has cylinder 1 in it, and Bank 2 is the other bank. Sensor 1 and sensor 2 are before and after that cat, just as before. The engine computer, uses the feedback from the oxygen sensors to adjust the fuel mixture for optimal performance. I don't know the crv reset specifics, but typically it takes a number of start cycles and miles of driving before the computer will automatically reset the service light. The computer doesn't turn the light on right away with the first out of spec failure, and it doesn't turn it off right away. This is assuming you didn't drive around a lot with the service light on, dumping excess unburnt fuel into the cat converter, and ruining it. If you fixed this quickly after having the initial light, you should be in okay shape. Give it a couple days of driving, and if it isn't off by then, go back to whereever you went to have it read, and have them read the codes again, and then reset the errors. That way you'll be able to see if you get a new/different set of error codes. |
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| this whole time ive been driving my spare car and havent been using the crv and yes it is a straight 4 so im guessing it has two o2 sensors and i changed the first 02 sensor (using a universal Bosch sensor where you have to piece together the wires with the old harness-$60 instead of $200) but the light is still on. I had autozone check the codes and manually reset them and the light stayed off for a few seconds and then came back on after i reversed and stepped on the gas. The same is true after I disconnected the battery from the car and let it sit powerless for about an hour. The codes are still reading the same thing ODBII PO134 code Sensor No Activity Bank1 Sensor1 and PO135 Code P0135 --Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction. I am beginning to think that maybe the problem wasnt the original O2 sensor itself but the harness that connected it to the system which I reused when i spliced the wires using the in-box connector Bosch provides you with. It is either than or the harness itself leading to the engine or it could be something blown in the fuse box. Do you know the exact fuse that powers the sensor heater circuit/02 harness that sends the signals to the computer? | |
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