Sign In Join 



Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

6452 messages,  Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 8:09 PM

You are in the Honda CR-V Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Honda CR-V, SUV

Your Community Leader is varmint.


Messages Page 424 of 646
1
...
421
422
423
424
425
426
427
...
646
Prev
Next
Last
Go To Msg #
Search This Discussion

#4226 of 6452
Re: [jrb3] by mikefm58
Feb 18, 2006 (1:31 pm)
Reply

Replying to: jrb3 (Feb 18, 2006 7:07 am)

You should have gone to a different dealer. Based on what you've said, they took you for a good one. Did they tell you what to code was each time the check engine light came on? Each time the check engine light is reset, it takes a few "cycles" before knowing for sure the problem is fixed.
 
When I had my Mustang, the check engine light came on, took it to the local auto parts store where they read the code for free and told me the likely causes. It turned out to be an O2 sensor that I changed myself for $70. The Ford shop wanted $75 to read the code and another hour for diagnostics to install their $175 O2 sensor.
#4227 of 6452
CRV-EX 2001 Vibration by sherbanhp
Feb 19, 2006 (5:45 am)
Reply
My CRV-EX 2001 with 75K miles has a developed a vibration rattle when accelerating. After observing it for a while I determined that it occurs at about 2,100 rpm to 2,200 rpm whether the revs are increasing or decreasing.
Took it to the dealer, Open Road Honda in NJ, and the first time they told me it was a loose bolt in the exhaust plate which they tightened.
Problem not solved, took it back and they confirmed the problem but said it was "somewhere in the back", but did not affect the safety of the vehicle.
The noise has gotten more annoying and for one thing I obviously can not resell the car. The car is under extended warranty to 100K mi.
 
I'll be grateful for any suggestion.
 
Thank you.
 
SHP
#4228 of 6452
Re: And...stilll [jcufr] by terryp1
Feb 19, 2006 (8:25 am)
Reply

Replying to: jcufr (Feb 15, 2006 4:58 am)

I have seen the light. Hallelelujah! It came to me when I was on a message board far, far away.....one called "Bye-Bye Planet." I learned a lot there from a guy posting as "isellglobalwarming." Then I moved over to the addiction boards and got the real truth from "iselltobacco."
So I've brought my new-found analytical skills back to the CR-V boards. Here's what I believe now: a significant portion of CR-V owners are delusional. Flat out crazy or stupid or a mix of the two. And that is proved easily by clear and convincing statistics.
Search the entire RAV4 forum for "pttr" and you'll get only two hits. And those two mention it only in reference to Honda's CR-V. Now search for "pttr" in the CR-V forums and you'll get, I think now, 201 hits.
Since the RAV4 has one axle shorter than the other, like the CR-V, and that's the cause of the oh-so-slight torque steer that is oh-so-natural and expected, then there is only one answer: A significant portion of CR-V owners are delusional.
Surely now all the palaver here will be put to rest.
#4229 of 6452
Re: D Light [sarah76] by user777
Feb 19, 2006 (11:30 am)
Reply

Replying to: sarah76 (Feb 16, 2006 4:53 pm)

if the light is flashing, they should be able to hook up their computer interface and see what codes are stored related to the problem.
#4230 of 6452
Re: CRV making noise when during hard/full turn [dotyee] by stevedebi
Feb 19, 2006 (4:25 pm)
Reply

Replying to: dotyee (Feb 17, 2006 4:18 pm)

"My 2005 CRV is around 10 months old. After 6 months of use, I noticed an intermittent humming noise when making a hard full turn at slow speeds, usually occurring when turning or when pulling in/out of a driveway or parking spaces. I can't pinpoint the location, I think it's coming from the front or middle of the car."
 
It is not the rear differential. My CR-V had this problem. When turning sharp left, there was a sound from (I think) the front right. I had the rear differential fluid changed when I first heard the sound, but that did not fix the problem. It sounds like something is rubbing up there, but the tire did not show any rubbing. Keep up informed on your problem...
#4231 of 6452
Re: [jrb3] by blueiedgod
Feb 20, 2006 (7:03 am)
Reply

Replying to: jrb3 (Feb 18, 2006 7:07 am)

I owned a 2001 CRV (note that I said owned). I bought the car new in 2001 from a reputable Honda dealership. The first 4 years of driving were good, except for at 12,000 miles they had to replace the Master Brake Cylinder. As of about 6 months ago, the car started to "hickup" when stopped at traffic lights, I took the car in to the dealership and after 2 days of diagnostic they could not find anything wrong with the car, and said the car did not "hickup" for them. Of course, as soon as I drove off of the lot it started "hickuping" again. with the odometer at 92,000 miles, 4 weeks ago, the check engine light came on, I took the car in and they reset the check engine light, saying that it could be an o2 sensor or the gas cap. A week later the light came on again, this time they said that it might be a cylinder head but that they would replace a coil, distributor cap and rotor button to see if it would fix the problem. Less than a week later the light came on again, this time the engine started to surge when the car was in park and studdering when the accelerator was lifted when on the highway. (Very scary!) This time they told me that I would need a new cylinder head! at a cost of $3300. I am writing this because I want others to know to be very careful when the check engine light comes on. Now of course, in the very beginning of this email I said owned, which of course means that I have since traded the CRV for another vehicle.
 
Tightening valves are a known problem with the OWNER's MANUAL for first generation CR-V. A competent dealership should have advised to have the valves adjusted at 30,000 miles. And should have know that studdering is a sign of tightening valves.
 
Honda has paid fully or partially for the $3300 valve train replacement for the owners who asked. They know the manual is wrong. This is the only time when I say Don't solely rely on the OWNER's Manual. By 90,000 miles the valves should have been adjusted 3 times.
#4232 of 6452
Re: CRV-EX 2001 Vibration [sherbanhp] by theracoon
Feb 20, 2006 (7:04 am)
Reply

Replying to: sherbanhp (Feb 19, 2006 5:45 am)

My CRV-EX 2001 with 75K miles has a developed a vibration rattle when accelerating. After observing it for a while I determined that it occurs at about 2,100 rpm to 2,200 rpm whether the revs are increasing or decreasing.
 
The rattle is probably the upper heat shield on the catalytic convertor. The front mounting points rust through and it then rattles at certain RPMs. It's easy to check. Crawl under your CR-V with a screwdriver and locate the catalytic convertor. It'll be in the center, just behind the engine compartment. It's #5 in this image:
 

 
Hold the screwdriver by the blade and hit the upper heat shield towards the front with the handle of the screwdriver. You'll hear it rattle.
 
I fixed mine using a large metal hose clamp around the front of the catalytic convertor. Since you have the extended warranty you might try to get them to replace the heat shield.
 
Good luck.
#4233 of 6452
1998 Honda CRV, propeller shaft by tedh32
Feb 20, 2006 (5:11 pm)
Reply
my CRV has 135k miles. the propeller shaft is frozen at one of the universal joints. honda's solution is to replace the shaft at $1,000 for the part. the shaft is only on the all wheel drive model. can the shaft be removed and not replaced, thus converting to a front wheel drive. my garage mechanic says yes. Honda will not comment for fear of possible lawsuit should damage occur or is it the loss of repair dollars. In the old days you were able to change out a universal joint. hoping someone will save me some money, thanks Ted
#4234 of 6452
Re: 1998 Honda CRV, propeller shaft [tedh32] by theracoon
Feb 21, 2006 (2:49 am)
Reply

Replying to: tedh32 (Feb 20, 2006 5:11 pm)

can the shaft be removed and not replaced, thus converting to a front wheel drive. my garage mechanic says yes. Honda will not comment for fear of possible lawsuit should damage occur or is it the loss of repair dollars.
 
Because of the way the RT4WD system works, you would also need to remove the rear drive shafts (that go from the rear differential to each rear wheel).
 
While Honda doesn't sell the u-joint separately, you may be able to find a shop that will replace the u-joint using a non-Honda part. I remember reading (on another forum) about someone who had that done. I believe the u-joint was originally designed for a Suzuki ATV.
 
Good luck.
#4235 of 6452
Re: [blueiedgod] by romanm
Feb 21, 2006 (9:18 am)
Reply

Replying to: blueiedgod (Feb 20, 2006 7:03 am)

Tightening valves are a known problem with the OWNER's MANUAL for first generation CR-V. A competent dealership should have advised to have the valves adjusted at 30,000 miles.
 
How about the 2nd generation CR-V? Is any known adjustment interval not mentioned in the Owner's Manual? My '05 manual simply says, I believe, "inspect at 110K, adjust if noisy". Thanks.

Messages Page 424 of 646
1
...
421
422
423
424
425
426
427
...
646
Prev
Next
Last
Go To Msg #
Search This Discussion
To POST a message, please Sign In.

New? Join Now!

Forum Tools

Please sign in.
Email Address:

Password:

Forgot Password?

Search Forums

Enter Keyword(s)

Advanced Search

Browse by Vehicle



View All Vehicles
Advertisement
Ask the Community
See What People Are Asking

Browse by Board

Browse by Topic


View All Topics

Today's Chats

Advertisement