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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

6452 messages, Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 8:09 PM
You are in the Honda CR-V Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
Your Community Leader is varmint.
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Replying to: jrb3 (Feb 18, 2006 7:07 am) When I had my Mustang, the check engine light came on, took it to the local auto parts store where they read the code for free and told me the likely causes. It turned out to be an O2 sensor that I changed myself for $70. The Ford shop wanted $75 to read the code and another hour for diagnostics to install their $175 O2 sensor. |
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My CRV-EX 2001 with 75K miles has a developed a vibration rattle when accelerating. After observing it for a while I determined that it occurs at about 2,100 rpm to 2,200 rpm whether the revs are increasing or decreasing. Took it to the dealer, Open Road Honda in NJ, and the first time they told me it was a loose bolt in the exhaust plate which they tightened. Problem not solved, took it back and they confirmed the problem but said it was "somewhere in the back", but did not affect the safety of the vehicle. The noise has gotten more annoying and for one thing I obviously can not resell the car. The car is under extended warranty to 100K mi. I'll be grateful for any suggestion. Thank you. SHP |
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Replying to: jcufr (Feb 15, 2006 4:58 am) So I've brought my new-found analytical skills back to the CR-V boards. Here's what I believe now: a significant portion of CR-V owners are delusional. Flat out crazy or stupid or a mix of the two. And that is proved easily by clear and convincing statistics. Search the entire RAV4 forum for "pttr" and you'll get only two hits. And those two mention it only in reference to Honda's CR-V. Now search for "pttr" in the CR-V forums and you'll get, I think now, 201 hits. Since the RAV4 has one axle shorter than the other, like the CR-V, and that's the cause of the oh-so-slight torque steer that is oh-so-natural and expected, then there is only one answer: A significant portion of CR-V owners are delusional. Surely now all the palaver here will be put to rest. |
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Replying to: sarah76 (Feb 16, 2006 4:53 pm) |
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Replying to: dotyee (Feb 17, 2006 4:18 pm) It is not the rear differential. My CR-V had this problem. When turning sharp left, there was a sound from (I think) the front right. I had the rear differential fluid changed when I first heard the sound, but that did not fix the problem. It sounds like something is rubbing up there, but the tire did not show any rubbing. Keep up informed on your problem...
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Replying to: jrb3 (Feb 18, 2006 7:07 am) Tightening valves are a known problem with the OWNER's MANUAL for first generation CR-V. A competent dealership should have advised to have the valves adjusted at 30,000 miles. And should have know that studdering is a sign of tightening valves. Honda has paid fully or partially for the $3300 valve train replacement for the owners who asked. They know the manual is wrong. This is the only time when I say Don't solely rely on the OWNER's Manual. By 90,000 miles the valves should have been adjusted 3 times.
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Replying to: sherbanhp (Feb 19, 2006 5:45 am) The rattle is probably the upper heat shield on the catalytic convertor. The front mounting points rust through and it then rattles at certain RPMs. It's easy to check. Crawl under your CR-V with a screwdriver and locate the catalytic convertor. It'll be in the center, just behind the engine compartment. It's #5 in this image: Hold the screwdriver by the blade and hit the upper heat shield towards the front with the handle of the screwdriver. You'll hear it rattle. I fixed mine using a large metal hose clamp around the front of the catalytic convertor. Since you have the extended warranty you might try to get them to replace the heat shield. Good luck.
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my CRV has 135k miles. the propeller shaft is frozen at one of the universal joints. honda's solution is to replace the shaft at $1,000 for the part. the shaft is only on the all wheel drive model. can the shaft be removed and not replaced, thus converting to a front wheel drive. my garage mechanic says yes. Honda will not comment for fear of possible lawsuit should damage occur or is it the loss of repair dollars. In the old days you were able to change out a universal joint. hoping someone will save me some money, thanks Ted
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Replying to: tedh32 (Feb 20, 2006 5:11 pm) Because of the way the RT4WD system works, you would also need to remove the rear drive shafts (that go from the rear differential to each rear wheel). While Honda doesn't sell the u-joint separately, you may be able to find a shop that will replace the u-joint using a non-Honda part. I remember reading (on another forum) about someone who had that done. I believe the u-joint was originally designed for a Suzuki ATV. Good luck. |
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Replying to: blueiedgod (Feb 20, 2006 7:03 am) How about the 2nd generation CR-V? Is any known adjustment interval not mentioned in the Owner's Manual? My '05 manual simply says, I believe, "inspect at 110K, adjust if noisy". Thanks.
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